Electric Water Heater

ttharrisons wrote:
Looks like he’s decided to find a good rv service center in the Bay Area and have them go through the entire rig…seems to be a number of little things going on, and it’s his first rv.

Tks

Depending on where in the Bay Area he's looking I would suggest Leale's RV in San Jose - they do great work.

without reading all the replies. Old question from a lot of RV sites. "could the valves in the wet bay be open and the valve for the faucet be the only one close?" Hot and cold will mix there

Looks like he’s decided to find a good rv service center in the Bay Area and have them go through the entire rig…seems to be a number of little things going on, and it’s his first rv.

Tks

Thanks all….will let him know and get some add’l info.

One suggestion if replacing the element in an RV water heater may sound strange but read on... The Element is nothing more than a resistor so it's not all that concerned about voltage.. It's more concerned about current (Too much and it's history)

So get an element rated for 1500 watts at 240 volts..
What happens if you do this.

Now I know some RV's are only 1400 watts but 1500 watts at 120 volts is 12.5 amps That's a "Big Load" 1400 is 11 2/3 still a big load

But that 240 volt 1500 watt.. When you cut the voltage in half you will also cut the current since I=E/R so you get 6.25 amps That's a medium load. and 385 watts.. Takes a bit longer to hot up the water but the temp is controlled by something else (Thermostat) so it will hold it at 120 just fine.

And on a 30 amp site...MORE amps left over for other stuff.

Water from heater should get more then warm.
I would check the thermostat and ECO and make sure they are tight to the tank.
Is the water heater tank full of water?
Make and model of water heater?

Mine was 1400 watts, not the standard wattage from stores such as Lowe's.

Sounds like a bad element. Any big box store would have one. Just take the old element out and find a matching one at Lowes.