Exhaust manifold bolt ... advice needed!
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford Class A with a 460 engine. The exhaust manifold issues have been well documented and so I decided to put Banks headers and exhaust on it. All my manifold bolts seemed ...
Forum Discussion
indyzmike wrote:
Leave drill in the toolbox. There is no need to drill since so much of the stud is sticking out. You can put the rest of the bolts back in until your trip is over, or take the manifold off to expose the stud. Once the manifold is off, do like others have said, use penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench or Aerokroil to soak in around the threads. WD-40 sucks at loosening bolts. Do this for a couple days by spraying a couple times a day. You can weld a nut on the stud to turn it, or use a small pipe wrench to grip on the stud. If you weld a nut onto the stud, weld it about a quarter inch from the engine and use a box end wrench to turn it. This allows more rotational force and less side, or radial force to snap the stud off. While carefully applying pressure to turn the bolt, tap on the end of it with a hammer, like pounding in a nail. The penetrating oil and the shock of the hammer should make it back out. Do not force the stud to turn, the stud sticking out is a luxury. Don't break it off. If it breaks off, THEN you go to the toolbox and get out that drill.
I agree with above. Take your trip then remove the manifold when you get back home. Does not seem to be leaking around the broken bolt so don't weld anything on it. Like above, remove the manifold, soak the threads with a solvent many times, grab it with a vise grips and work it loose.
I have found that ordinary carb cleaner spray (like gumout)works the best for loosening rusted bolts. Is thin,gets into the threads,works better than anything else.
