F53 Drivability

[tommy_salmon]

I know this has probably been covered ad nauseam in the past, but I can seem to find any info from the past posts. I have already done the budget stabilizer modification and it helps, but my handling on my 2013 Winnebago Vista is still like rowing a bathtub on the ocean. I am almost always towing a Jeep Wrangler while driving, but I have problems with or without towing. What suspension/steering mods have y'all done on the F53 chassis that helped most, and what did not work? Also, I drive in the mountains a lot, and the engine noise gets really annoying pretty quickly, and my wife and I can't even carry on a conversation. Any solutions for the noise? After 11,000 miles, I'm thinking I have to make a change to this rig, move up to a diesel pusher, or go back to a 5er! Thanks in advance for your reply!

[glamisorbust]

I see people all the time on here complaining about handling issues and feeling like their F53 rides and drives like a bread truck. That chassis wasn't built for the amount of weight some folks haul on them.

We used to have a couple of P-30 chevy chassis class A's, and they both had poor handling. The DP has large frame, brakes, wheels & tires, steering components, and the right engine and trans to push it down the highway.

I've driven 4 different DP's. Three holiday rambler endeavor's(that's what I own), and I rented a 38' georgie boy for a weekend. Both drive really good. I can tell you that I will never own a gasser again.

[Effy]

glamisorbust wrote:
When something is built right, you don't have to do a bunch of modifications to make it work right. If you do buy a DP, you won't have to do any of these things to make it work properly. You won't believe how good it handles compared to a gas coach. Trust me, i've had both.

It's not really that the F53 is built wrong. It's that it's a generic chassis built for a lot of uses. MH's being just one of them. And with generic anything, it's going to behave like it. Frankly I think the F53 is a poor chassis for a MH, but it's the only game in town and if a custom gasser chassis was built, your price point would climb into the DP range making it sort of pointless.

[Fiesta]

I was a F53 Gasser fan for 5 years. Then we wanted to pull a car rather than a motorcycle and go west. Another $140k later, I'm sold on my DP. Now with diesel prices lower than unleaded (temporarily) our fuel cost are down hundreds since we get 1.2 better mpg with the DP and lots more high speed power. Gassers do have more power at low speeds. Now have better ride, brakes, room and handling. Headwinds, crosswinds and trucks affect us less too.
It's all a matter of how much you'll put up with and spend.

[glamisorbust]

When something is built right, you don't have to do a bunch of modifications to make it work right. If you do buy a DP, you won't have to do any of these things to make it work properly. You won't believe how good it handles compared to a gas coach. Trust me, i've had both.

[creeper]

You should have heard my F350 scream in the Rockies. It's the nature of the beast when you're sitting over the engine. You can only quiet it so much. People insulate the dog house, but neglect everything under their feet.

You might want to look into Acoustic/blok for floor area in addition to insulating the dog house. I have to say that Ford has incorporated some of the after market ideas into their newest chassis, like large front trak bar.

My drives well and has nearly no movement from large trucks, but I'm still going to add a Safe-t-plus just for safety. Does you coach go straight on flat roads with nothing else affecting it?

[427435]

Before adding hardware get 4 corner weights and adjust tire pressure accordingly. Then get an alignment and be sure the caster gets set to at least 4-1/2 degrees.

Repeat, get an alignment and be sure caster is set at 4-1/2 degrees or more.

[L2R]

safe T plus made a big difference. It makes the tires track straight. This fixes the steering issues. Think of it as fixing the Ford chassis and how it all works.

The Tiger Trak stabilizes the box on top of the chassis and reduces the sway of the box particularly when big rigs are next to you.

After that, you need to check your weight distribution of axles and toad weight. I would guess after all that, you should be in pretty good shape.

Sad we have to spend all that to make them driveable but it sounds like a lot of expense to buy a pusher and then do this all over again.

good luck.

[glamisorbust]

You sound like another perfect candidate for a DP. Like others have said, engine out back, all the heat and noise is out back too.

Air brakes, jake brake and air ride are awesome.

Basement and pass through storage are huge compared to the gasser also. Remember, you have the transmission and driveshaft running the entire length of the coach. DP's don't have this problem, so you get a ton more storage.

If you can afford it, go for it. You won't believe how quiet the ride is even under full throttle climbing hills.

[RLS7201]

The best steering improvement I made on my F53 was setting the toe-in on the strong side. 5/32 toe-in. Next best was a front track bar.
Insulate the dog house and surrounding structure to reduce heat and noise.

Richard

[Billinwoodland]

Here's a recent thread: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28521964/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm
I assume your rig has a maximum tow rating of 5,000lbs. I know some jeep wranglers can be close to that. I'm wondering if your toad is causing any of the handling issues? My Monaco Monarch on the same chassis handles great, even on mountain roads.

[holstein13]

1) Get the coach weighed and look up the inflation charts for your tires and the weight carried by each axle.
2) Get a four wheel alignment done by a very qualified shop.
3) Add a rear stabilizer to your rig (Tiger Trak makes a good one)
4) Install an airbag system if you don't like how the shocks affect the coach. (Kelderman is a good one)
5) Some people have had good luck with steering stabilizers.

As for noise, there are plenty of acoustical insulation products you can apply to the underside of your dog house and firewall that should make a noticeable difference.

A diesel pusher is nice too if you'd like to upgrade.

[msturtz]

We had the same problems with a class C version of your coach. After, helper springs, air bags, steering stabilizer, completely insulating the cab with hush mat and new carpet and pad and even aluminum rims it still was too noisy and handled poorly. We traded it for a DP. Air brakes, air ride, engine in the back makes all the difference. We had our DP in 50+ gusting winds pulling our boat, in the mountains and it was much more stable. That is before you factor in the vastly better fuel economy. The poor v10 got terrible fuel economy in mountainous terrain. When towing it was worse. DPs are not nirvana they float across the roadway so don't expect sports car handling.