First Time Buyer...Updated 03/06/2006

Paul if you picked up the 86 or 87 model that you was looking at back in July update us. One with the newly rebuilt engine and transmission sounded interesting and I would like to know did some local shop do it or was it like factory rebuilt. It is a little strange that one would sell a “good” MH for less than the recent repair bill. Most of the time we spend money like that on something we plan to “drive” it out of it, not sell it at a price that would have meant giving it away before the engine and transmission job would have be the best financial decision. John Deere chassis’s typically have a high load rating and many like the 460 but both may be “pre” fuel injected. Many of the 454 and 460 engines will have less than the 16 required (at least on my 454) manifold bolt heads showing due to the fact they tend to pop off over time so make sure you count exhaust manifold bolt heads before you settle on a price. After some back firing (which I fixed yesterday with a $13 distributor “pick up” coil) I went under my engine after dark with a strong flashlight and that was the first time I realized I had a missing bolt on our 1992 Georgie Boy 32’ Pursuit with 90K miles that I paid $7995 for this past July to the previous owner of 10 years. So far after about 800 miles of driving the manifold bolts were the only thing that I have found that I missed on the quick initial inspection but I am sure there would be other things show up. There still is not a leaking sound that one hears over the engine sound and had it not been for the high RPM miss and back firing I am not sure when I would have caught the missing exhaust manifold bolts.

As a thought you may look for something a little more current (less than 20 years old) unless you are more into restoring than spending a lot of time on the road. By not getting in a rush with the price of gas being $3+/- much fresher units (ones that has seen 3K+ miles each year of its life) with many less years of age in the $7K-$10K range. In my case I got great tires (both in tread and condition) that are on 19.5 inch wheels, a GM Good Wrench remanufactured (not rebuilt) transmission with updates with 16K miles on it plus new shocks and air bags around the same time. The overall condition is good but it has been used and is 15 years old.

The older the more bottom side rust you may find unless it has never been out of AZ. Most of the electronics from the engine to coach are dated along with the appliances. Fuel injected engines are much more desirable for service and power. The roof AC units and the generator, etc may demand more service. I know a guy that got an 84 Class C 23’ unit for like $2500 but has been rebuilding if for the longest and still is running the factory front tires on mountain areas. He is looking at converting to fuel injection because the 350 is not powerful enough to tow and buying a new gas tank because of rust he is only getting about 400 miles before he has to replace the fuel filter.

Paul I realized I have rambled here but it there is a point it would be look at what you really want. If you are looking for an evening and weekend project the older the better. If you are looking for a project and going 40 miles to a lake to fish once a month then the older the better perhaps. If you want to make 5K mile trips you may want to upgrade on the front end to something that will be easier to find parts and service for should you break down on the road where it could cost you $500 just to get towed to a service area. From what I can see buying an old one in need of repairs, tires, roof, etc cost no less than to buy one that someone else has kept road worthy and is 8 or 10 years newer after 6 months down the road if you make it road worthy. Go to www.rvtraderonline.com and you will see it is a buyer’s market.

After almost buying one off of E-Bay we on advice of another person looked in 3-4 of the penny ad shoppers like find at the door of your local greasy spoon restaurants. There are more older cracker boxes on wheels out there that you can shake a stick at. Granted most will be priced 2X what they are worth but no one is going to pay it so as one said over them 50% of the asking price but ready to write the check because they know the real value and will accept it when they get ready to get it out of the yard. Most that set a couple years and start leaking can not be given away. Read this site and others you will fine with Google. Clearly you are good with your hands so learn all you can about motor homes and go for it. For $10K you can find motor homes like others are paying $15K for and they are no better. Remember a 1990 HM with 120K miles is most likely a better MH than a 1990 with 17K miles on it and they are out there. If the one with 17K miles has been kept inside it will look like new but if the miles were put on it in the first five years it has not been maintained and when you hit the road and the elements you are going to find out that fact. If you can fine the 17K mile 1990 after some one has spent $8K on it during the last 5000 miles over the past two years then you are the lucky one most likely and it can happen.

Heart attacks, strokes and cancer put 1000’s of quality MH’s on the market each year for a quick sell and these will not be found mainly on dealer lots. Many of us start too late to enjoy many years of RV’ing. Keep your eyes open and more deals may come your way than your bank account will want to handle. There are more sellers in a rush than there are buyers in a rush. This may not apply to new MH’s but does to the more “mature” ones.