How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Wolf_n_Kat]

Following Griff's advice, I very definitely identified a problem before I started throwing parts at it, and came up with a new problem.

I had a saggy emergency brake cable and gave it a tug to see how much I was going to have to adjust. That was when I learned that said brake cable (front, from handle to adjuster) was in two pieces, not the one piece it's supposed to be.

Checked at a local car parts dealership, but the cable they gave me was too short - something in the neighborhood of 70" too short! After calling and explaining the problem, the longest cable they could find was 130" or so, and what I need is in the neighborhood of 171".

Anybody got any ideas where a body could dig up a front emergency brake cable for a '74 Eldorado (Class C)?

[Griff_in_Fairba]

1977Monashee -

Where in Ontario? I went to grade school in Int'l Falls, across the river from Fort Frances. The only TV station we could get was CBC, so I guess I'm a little bit Canadian. Also, during my USAF career five of my annual performance reports were signed by a Captain in the Canadian Forces. (With him as my supervisor, I was able to regularly buy a two-four of Blue through the Canadian Orderly Room.)

If that speciality parts store has a web site please post their URL. Being in Alaska, I often find it easier (and cheaper) to buy from Canadian (and Japanese!) sources than from the Lower 48. I buy my black water tanks direct from the manufacturer in Canada. (In one case, based on their shipping quote, I could swear the Lower 48 vendor was going to ship it up here via private jet courier.)

I agree regarding an engine rebuild. Most older motorhomes have very low mileage and yours could possibly go on for decades before needing a rebuild. When I opened up the 318-3 from my 1969 M300, I found very little wear and only a little corrosion due to inappropriate oil change frequency. I could conceivably just hone and re-ring the cylinders and be good to go. However on projects like this, I tend to do a complete rebuild using select aftermarket parts to wind up with a fresh engine that's better than new.

I cannot stress enough the issue with valve stem seals in Mopar LA small block engines like yours. In all probability, a major portion of your oil usage is probably due to disintegrated valve stem seals. The 318 in my '77 B200 was using oil like your engine. Unfortunately, I rebuilt the heads before I found out all I need was new valve stem seals. The re-seated valves increased cylinder pressure, causing ring blow-by.

What happens is the engine pumps oil into the valve covers (aka rocker arm covers) to lubricate the rocker arms. A little bit of that oil is intended to leak past the stem seals to lubricate valve stems. However, when the stem seals disintegrate a larger amount of oil collects around the valve stems. In turn, on the pistons down stroke this oil is sucked into the cylinders where it is burned with the gas and ejected through the exhaust. The oil is usually not enough to cause visibly blue exhaust but is enough the cause significant oil usage.

The life expectancy of OEM valve stem seals is such that I can almost guarantee the seals need replacing on any LA engine that's more than a decade old, regardless of mileage.

Sometimes, what appears to be a main seal leak is actually a leaking torque converter seal on the transmission. This seal is actually easier to replace than the engine's main seal. The dye and detection kit I mentioned is relatively inexpensive, especially when compared to the cost of throwing parts at a problem that's actually elsewhere. (Transmission fluid is reddish colored, unless the tranny fluid is old, which sometimes helps identify to source of the leak.)

Bottom line: Identify the source of your problem before you start throwing parts at it.

[1977Monashee]

Hey Griff in Fairbanks, Thanks for the reply.

I will check out the spedometer and components most likely this weekend if I have time. I Have the haines manuel, but have little mechnical know-how so I will try and get one of my unlces to help out with some of the more complex stuff so I dont screw it up. I did an oil change, replaced the air filter, greased everything and serviced the hubs before my first road trip last fall, which is when I noticed the spedometer problem, its been sitting in storage all winter. I will put up pictures soon, I got a new phone so I dont have any pics available right now.

Thanks for the offer on the spedometer much appreciated, But I think I should be able to get one around my house. There is a classic car specialist part store not to far from me, who focuses on ford, chevy and mopar parts.

It's definitely engine oil, that is leaking, and I can see it drip out of the rear main seal after I get it going. The engine went through aproximately 5 litres of oil over 4000 miles on my last trip. I don't think I need an engine rebuild," yet", it runs great, and everyone I have shown has agreed.

Just a little nervous cause In ontario you have to pass a safety before you can register and insure it........

I didn't now about the 318-3 designation, I will have to take a look at it when I get it from storage. I hope it is! There is definitely Alot of valuable information in this thread, 617 pages of it! I'm super happy i stumbled upon this! Like I said I will post pictures of my girl soon :)! Getting really excited for summer.


Thank again for the friendly reply !

Regards

1977Monashee

[Griff_in_Fairba]

1977Monashee wrote:
Hey Guys and Girls!! I am really new to Rving, as I just bought my first RV last year!!

I bought a 1977 Monashee, on a dodge MB300 chasis. Class C. It has a V8 318, automatic transmission. I bought it in saskatchewan, and drove down to nashville and then back to ontario which is where I live. It has 104 669 kms on it right now. It ran great and only had minor problems. The spedometer sometimes "doesn't catch" once im at 60mph, it floats back and forth between 50-70 mph and makes a loud, annoying noise..... The rear main seal also has a slow leak which I think Im going to replace soon. I have done a little research and have never seen another Monashee model? The camper was made in Penticton BC, and the frame made at the warren factory.

Have any of you ever heard of the Monashee Model??? Any thoughts or comments are much appreciated!!

Regards,

1977Monashee

Pictures please.

Three components in the speedometer system: drive gear, cable, and instrument. The drive gear in the transmission is plastic but is probably okay. The cable may be worn, dry, or gummed up and should be cleaned and greased before thinking about replacement.

The instrument in the dash is a mechanical revolution counter that may be gummed up. They sometimes develop a "dead spot" at the vehicle speed most commonly driven. You could try cleaning and lubricating it. It's a non-electrical clockwork device so it's somewhat delicate.

The same mechanism was used on all Mopar vehicles for decades. The differences between various model is in the bezel and faceplate. (You can convert it from KPH to MPH and vice versa by just replacing the faceplate.) Chrysler parts departments may still have new ones available, as well as parts stores. You might also be able to find NOS speedometers on eBay. Otherwise, hunt the junkyards and craigslist for Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Imperial, and Fargo vehicles being parted out.

I actually have five or six speedometers buried somewhere in my storage sheds. I know one has a damaged odometer due to being melted by sun heat. I'm holding on the rest to use the one in best shape in my current project. I probably could spare one but cannot attest to the condition of any of them. (i.e., it'd be best for you to find one locally.)

You probably have a 318-3. The -3 was an industrial engine, which had stronger components in the basic 273/318/340 block. (The 360 has larger mains so used a different casting and oil pan.) The most important part is a forged, rather than cast, crankshaft. Crankshafts gain strength with use and forged crankshafts start out stronger than cast or billet. Simply put, a used forge crankshaft is the best thing you can lay your hands on, which is why racers desire them and have made them hard to find.

The best way to determine if you have a -3 is look for "318-3" stamped into the front of the block on one bank just below the head. It may also be listed on a data plate under the hood or encoded into the VIN, assuming the engine wasn't replaced at some point. (It's not uncommon to find a -3 was replaced with an ordinary 318, although this is fairly uncommon in motorhomes.)

If you have the engine rebuilt, make sure the rebuilder keeps the same crankshaft during the rebuild.

Make sure the oil leak is from the engine and not the transmission. There is a dye you can put in the engine oil to find the source of the leak, using a special light and glasses. The kits sold in parts stores are usually used to detect coolant leaks, with different dyes sold separately for oil leaks.

The most common source of oil usage on 273/318/340/360 engines is disintegrated valve stem seals. Fortunately, these can be replaced without pulling the heads and should be tried before pulling the heads. (If you rebuild the heads, you should also re-ring the cylinders to avoid transferring the problem from the valves to the rings.)

Replacing the valve stem seals involve pulling the valve covers and using air pressure through a spark plug fitting to hold the valves in place.

The techniques mention in the two previous paragraph are described in detail in various books and websites so I won't go into detail here.

Advancing the timing a few degrees on your engine will improve your gas mileage, as long as it doesn't cause the engine to ping. Likewise, slowing to 50 or 55 mph will boost your mileage. (Both lessons learned on my '77 B-200 318, although I tended to ignore the speed recommendation.)

Ignore mileage for determining oil change frequency. Change the oil every three months when in use and just before putting your motorhome in storage. Unburned hydrocarbons collect in the oil and turn to acid when exposed to moisture. On highway travel, the engine warms up long enough to evaporate the hydrocarbons and moisture and expel them via the PCV system. Short (in-town) trips allow them to build up and, subsequently, corrode engine parts when not in use.

Elsewhere in this thread are lots of info on keeping your motorhome running well.

[1977Monashee]

Hey Guys and Girls!! I am really new to Rving, as I just bought my first RV last year!!

I bought a 1977 Monashee, on a dodge MB300 chasis. Class C. It has a V8 318, automatic transmission. I bought it in saskatchewan, and drove down to nashville and then back to ontario which is where I live. It has 104 669 kms on it right now. It ran great and only had minor problems. The spedometer sometimes "doesn't catch" once im at 60mph, it floats back and forth between 50-70 mph and makes a loud, annoying noise..... The rear main seal also has a slow leak which I think Im going to replace soon. I have done a little research and have never seen another Monashee model? The camper was made in Penticton BC, and the frame made at the warren factory.

Have any of you ever heard of the Monashee Model??? Any thoughts or comments are much appreciated!!

Regards,

1977Monashee

[toedtoes]

71choptop wrote:
I have read numerous times about walking away from any water damage but...

It really depends on the full picture. With my clipper, there were a few signs of leakage (around the AC and the kitchen vent), but those are the only weak points in clippers. They're built with 5 molded fiberglass panels that do not lend to leaking. So, I chose to believe that they had been corrected early on. Since I bought it, I have resealed all the vents and windows and have not had any issues with prior leakage. Glad I didn't run away.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Repairing water damage can, and has, been done. It depends on how extensive the damage is and how big of a project you're willing to tackle. Somewhere on the web is a photo blog of someone doing a complete rebuild of the coach.

Personally, I strip down to the frame, restore the drive train, suspension, and frame. I then build a custom coach to suit myself. But, some people consider me a tad eccentric and i'm used to major projects. (I'm primarily responsible for the preliminary design on the command and control system that was used to manage the Exxon Valdez clean-up.)

One buddy/coworker hung a phrase on me that I live by ... "I haven't lost touch with reality, I ignore it."

Back in the 50's and 60's (and earlier), people built their own travel trailers and motorhome, often based on plans in Popular Mechanics and similar magazines. Those articles planted the seed for my current 'entertainment'.

[71choptop]

I have read numerous times about walking away from any water damage but...

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Oh, by the way ... a significant portion of moisture damage on motorhomes actually comes from inside the coach. Humidity from cooking and human and animal respiration migrates through the panelling into the coach framing where it condenses due to colder exterior temperatures.

In the mid-90's, I lived in a place with a ceiling that dripped every spring because of humidity that migrated through the ceiling, condensing and freezing in the insulation above the ceiling, due to no vapor barrier in the ceiling. (The builders assume the foam insulation sheets were enough of a vapor barrier.) When it warmed up enough for the condensation to melt in the spring, the ceiling dripped even though the roof was intact and waterproof.

[71choptop]

Good idea Griff !!

[Griff_in_Fairba]

71choptop wrote:
Thanks guys, I will save my pennies and watch for a newer one w/no rain damage.

A possibility is to watch craigslist postings in the southwest. There's a fair number of well preserved, older motorhomes in that area due to the relatively arid climate, and often for less than $3,500. My daughter bought one in El Paso when she was stationed there and we considered driving it back to Alaska when she was being considered for medical retirement. (Unfortunately, a "friend" of hers borrowed it one weekend and wreck it beyond repair.)

If you find one for less than $3,500, you could hire a reputable mechanic to check it out before driving or flying down there to get it. You could save enough to pay for the trip down there and back. (You may even find one for free that someone wants out of their yard.)

If you do this, I'd take $1,000 in traveller's checks for contingencies. (A zero balance credit card, with a hefty limit is also a possibility, although traveller's checks are easier and more readily cashed.)

[71choptop]

Thanks guys, I will save my pennies and watch for a newer one w/no rain damage.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

rehoppe wrote:


Stored inside? Guess he only took it out on rainy days. LOL

With water damage that apparent I'd walk VERY gingerly around this 'deal' and then RUN??? Well maybe not but look at the threads on RV.net dealing with roof repair. It isn't a pretty project.

One possible exception would be IF it has a metal frame in the walls and roof.... even then ........... I'd keep looking.

Units w/o water damage do exist..... but they are rare...... worth the effort to find them however.

By the way: Tires are said to need replacing every 7years..... regardless of wear. I just sent a set of 6 to a 'tire wall'. Too bad the tread won't be visible when in place. LOL

I agree with rehoppe. People give me -- free of charge -- motorhomes in the condition you describe just to keep from having to send them to the junkyard.

You'll wind up spending a couple grand restoring the coach ... assuming you do the work yourself and are willing to take on a major project. I do that kind of work on the ones given to me and usually find it best to just strip off the coach and build a new body.

My '73 RM350 was missing the engine and tranny but was otherwise in excellent condition. For the three and a half grand your seller is asking, I could have gotten a quality rebuilt engine and transmission. (Someone probably took the engine and tranny for a racecar ... the motorhome engines usually have more rugged components desired by racers.)

rehoppe is ABSOLUTELY correct about the tires. I've driven on older tires but only locally and with a full set of spares.

You mentioned "cheesehead" in your profile so I assume you're in Wisconsin. Motorhomes in colder and/or humid climates tend to have water damage unless stored in a heated garage with a dehumidifier. The problem is warm humidity migrates into the framing and condenses when the exterior is exposed to colder temperatures. Once the wood becomes saturated, it becomes the ideal feeding ground for mold that exist in dormancy in all wood. Compounding the problem is mold captures and holds moisture so it can continue to live and grow. (This is why homes in your area need vapor retarders on the warm side of exterior walls.)

[rehoppe]

71choptop wrote:
Older thread but pertinent to me now. Like classics and stuff I can work on. At the age were I would like to have a motorhome but income is limited. Found a old local guy that has a '79 Dodge Honey, 25', rear side door, back bathroom, 360ci,61,000 miles. Has had it since the early '80's, bought it from the original owner w/10,000 miles on it. Body is about 95% nice Interior is very nice w/the exception that you can tell their was roof leakage in the cabinets along the side and under some windows. I could live w/it and am handy. Has new, 4 year old, 100 miles on them, tires, 16". Refer/freezer work, water pump works, water heater destroyed w/ tire blowout,furnace works, and not sure about AC. He is asking $3,500.00, I have been visiting and have looked at it a few times, won't pay 3,500.00. Would be nice to get for 2,500. but 3,000. is more realistic. I know that if I go a few thousand more I can jump up to'85 or so but the knowledge of the history and who owned it means a lot in my book. Says he has had it stored inside, since he owned it, in the winter and says it is a 360A ?
Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Stored inside? Guess he only took it out on rainy days. LOL

With water damage that apparent I'd walk VERY gingerly around this 'deal' and then RUN??? Well maybe not but look at the threads on RV.net dealing with roof repair. It isn't a pretty project.

One possible exception would be IF it has a metal frame in the walls and roof.... even then ........... I'd keep looking.

Units w/o water damage do exist..... but they are rare...... worth the effort to find them however.

By the way: Tires are said to need replacing every 7years..... regardless of wear. I just sent a set of 6 to a 'tire wall'. Too bad the tread won't be visible when in place. LOL

[71choptop]

Older thread but pertinent to me now. Like classics and stuff I can work on. At the age were I would like to have a motorhome but income is limited. Found a old local guy that has a '79 Dodge Honey, 25', rear side door, back bathroom, 360ci,61,000 miles. Has had it since the early '80's, bought it from the original owner w/10,000 miles on it. Body is about 95% nice Interior is very nice w/the exception that you can tell their was roof leakage in the cabinets along the side and under some windows. I could live w/it and am handy. Has new, 4 year old, 100 miles on them, tires, 16". Refer/freezer work, water pump works, water heater destroyed w/ tire blowout,furnace works, and not sure about AC. He is asking $3,500.00, I have been visiting and have looked at it a few times, won't pay 3,500.00. Would be nice to get for 2,500. but 3,000. is more realistic. I know that if I go a few thousand more I can jump up to'85 or so but the knowledge of the history and who owned it means a lot in my book. Says he has had it stored inside, since he owned it, in the winter and says it is a 360A ?
Your thoughts would be appreciated.