Forum Discussion
Griff_in_Fairba
Jul 13, 2015Explorer
Chicknnhead wrote:
well went to get my motorhome at the storage lot on Saturday, and it was vandalized! among the things I have to cleanup on the inside and replace, the only thing on the outside was the tail lights. I NEED HELP locating the bases
if anyone has a set of these bases( I have extra lens) I would be interested. maybe you know of a rv in a junk yard that has these tail lights, wasting away
It looks like the Miro-Flex brand is now owned by Optronics. Look here.
A quick search indicates your particular STT light may be obsolete. I'd contact Optronics to make sure and ask if they have any NOS lights left in a warehouse somewhere.
Assuming you want to stay with OEM style, you might have to fabricate new bases. I could do it, using fiberglass & epoxy, but it would be expensive due to labor.
Personally, I'd go the restomod route, fabricating something similar but not identical. I'd also upgrade to LED for longevity and lower current draw.
The primary issue is the angle between the body and lens. Most STT lights made today are designed to mount on vertical surfaces. I'd do it using built-up wood, fiberglass, and marine epoxy. Best wood would be Port Orford or Alaska Yellow Cedar, although Western Red Cedar would be lighter and almost as rot resistant. The first two are strong while the third is a bit more fragile.
Almost any wood would work as long as it's encapsulated (sealed) with marine epoxy such as WEST Systems epoxy. I have a boat built using epoxy encapsulated wood that has survived outdoors in Interior Alaska for almost 20 years, though rain, snow, and temperatures ranging from -50° F to +90° F. The downside to marine epoxy is it's UV sensitive so it needs to be coated with high solids varnish or opaque paint.
Take two 2X blocks of wood and bevel them to match the angle of the coach's rear mounting surface. Shape the blocks to match the new lights. (Depending on the lights you choose, this may just consist of rounding the blocks' corners.) Drill out the blocks' centers, leaving 1/2" to 3/4" of wood around the outside. Drill the mounting holes and seal all surfaces with several coats of marine epoxy, including the inside of mounting holes and hollowed-out area. Laminate a layer of 6 oz or lighter fiberglass to the outside and paint to match the RV's body.
The fiberglass adds a bit of strength but mainly serves to provide abrasion resistance and help build up epoxy for more moisture resistance. The paint, in addition to matching the coach, protects the epoxy from the effects of sunlight.
Contact me if you choose this route and have questions.
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