How to Negotiate an Equitable Price

[Floridastorm]

Am pretty well locked into getting a Class C, B, or even a van motor home as I not only want a small motor home but a vehicle to act as a 2nd car, so to speak. Have scanned the dealers in my area for new units. Am seeing that some of the inventory is marked down considerably. A few of them are priced somewhat below NADA value. Should I be using NADA pricing as a reliable guide? I keep hearing that you should negotiate anywhere from 20% to 30% off the MSRP. How does one find the MSRP? If the pricing is already below NADA do I still negotiate? Or is there another pricing guide to go buy? I have heard of wholesale pricing and black book pricing. Very confusing.

[Bordercollie]

If you buy a new motorhome, regardless of type, expect that there may be some factory defects, and possible hassles, to have fixed before you can start using it. Know what to look for during the pre-delivery inspection (PDI) Don't sign the sales contract unless they write in any promises for upgrades and fixes. Don't buy a warranty package, they are usually full of loopholes. If you can, check out customer satisfaction reviews about your dealer's service department. There are some advantages to buying used vs new if you shop wisely and have used RV inspected by a truck mechanic and RV service professional.

[fireflock]

Floridastorm wrote:

If, as you suggest, I search dealers countrywide, should I get some pricing for a couple of units that I am interested in and then go to the local dealers and show them the pricing if they do not agree to negotiate? Is there any organization that publishes approximate pricing for types of RVs. Kind of like Kelly Blue Book?

I guess you're looking at new RV's?

I'm not aware of any place to get the kind of manufacturer pricing data for RV's that you're used to with cars.

My strategy is to decide what make/model I want first, and then try to get a price I'm comfortable with second. I'm typically not interested it getting my 2nd choice coach for a little $ savings. Obviously, don't shop for stuff that's not in your financial ballpark to start with.

Typically, deciding the make/model will involve working with a new dealer. I'm upfront with them and tell them I'm just trying to decide what I like right now. When I get to the next step (pricing) I'll give them a final shot at my business if they sell what I decide on since they helped out in the first step.

Once I decide the make/model, the strategy can vary based on what you choose. Some makes have dealers that specialize in non-local sales. Some models are sold at places like Rvdirect where you can find upfront prices. Owners groups for the make you're interested are a great place to start.

Again, I always give the first dealer (who helped me decide which model to focus on) a final shot at my business unless they've done something to run me off. Sometimes they earn the sale. Other times they just can't compete. They should understand this if they've been in the business for a while without having hard feelings.

For used RV's, I'd focus on low mileage first owners whose plans have changes for whatever reason. You can find nice clean 10-20k mile units for much less than new if you're willing to travel and be patient.

Good Luck - take it one step at a time.

[klutchdust]

First off i enjoy buying new cars. I go into the dealership armed with reliable information and they hate me. With that said I would compare, nationwide, one dealer against the other for the same or identical unit. Some dealers are closer to the manufacturer so shipping cost is lower. MSRP, save this %, etc is just eye candy for the buyer. The dealer has a set price he needs to get and you need to find out what that is.PAtience is your best friend. Find a unit you like and start comparing. Fear not the one way flight to distant lands to drive your new rig home. I purchased a used Cambria, it was in Minnesota and we are in California. I could not find what I wanted for that price anywhere else. The unit is very nice, half the price of new and basically was brand new with tons of options the owner added on. A few minor tweaks and it suits us nicely. Take your time, get your ideas out there to dealers and work one against the other and extended warranties? 72% are never used according to a well respected consumer source. Take that money instead and put it under the bed and you will come out way ahead.

I see you are in Florida. My friend just purchased a Class A Entegra that MSRP was like 400,K and he bought it for like 225K it has less than 10K miles on it and 30 hours on the generator.
It was in Fla. and he in Ca. I get to drive it home to Ca. next week from Kansas, what a hoot.

[Floridastorm]

fireflock wrote:
Forget MSRP. It's made up and based on nothing real.

NADA can range from sort of OK to really bad depending on how many of a particular make/model are sold via dealers. NADA doesn't track private sales. Data can be sparse for thinly traded RV's.

My strategy would be to decide on what you want and then look nationwide for prices at other dealers as well as on sites like rvtrader and craigslist.

Anything other than a van for a daily driver will get old quick. If you plan to use it less than once a week and have plenty of parking options then using something small as a second car could be OK.

If, as you suggest, I search dealers countrywide, should I get some pricing for a couple of units that I am interested in and then go to the local dealers and show them the pricing if they do not agree to negotiate? Is there any organization that publishes approximate pricing for types of RVs. Kind of like Kelly Blue Book?

[j-d]

If you want NEW, many dealers and specialty outfits like RVDirect offer online or phone quotes. Just work the keyboard, work the phone, see who comes out low. Present that to a local dealer. They may choose to match or beat it.

[Floridastorm]

Bordercollie wrote:
Look at various models of Road Trek and other similar van conversions. They can have " all the comforts of home " but are like camping in a submarine. If you can tolerate limited elbow room and storage of stuff for short term camping and touring, and the high original cost of new van conversions, they are more useful as a daily driver. You might be able to buy a used van conversion from a private party at a reasonable cost. Our old 72 Dodge Family Wagon van/camper conversion was the most versatile vehicle we have ever owned but it was very basic, and dinette/bed could be re-arranged for hauling large things. Short Class C's have less comfortable sleeping accomodations and storage than 27 footers. Most RV's require some compromises.

I've looked at Leisure Way and Traillite as they have a small but full bath behind a door that you can close. I don't care for the Roadtrek or similar setups as the bathroom becomes part of the living area in order to work. And, I agree, the pricing for motor home vans is almost criminal.

[Floridastorm]

PghBob wrote:
My opinion is that you should decide on a type of RV (Class C or B) first, then look at prices. Hopefully, you will have the RV a long time, so you really want to be sure you like the rig you picked. If you choose a rig solely or mostly on price, you might not be happy with the floor plan or quality and regret the purchase decision. I think you might want to consider going to a large RV show so that you can compare the various rigs side-by-side. Once you have decided on a brand and floor plan, you can negotiate. You can even send a letter to sales managers and request them to bid on a RV with your specs (but be certain what you want, options included) if you go this route.

Our Class C is 27 feet long. I have only used it once or twice as a daily driver. My point is, IMO, I would not consider an RV longer than 27 feet if you are thinking of using it for a daily driver. Poor gas mileage around town, wider, longer, parking etc. really does not make it desirable for this purpose. If a daily driver is what you want, lean towards a Class B or 24 foot or shorter Class C. I think, most important, is for you and any traveling companions to sit down and prioritize what is most important to you in an RV.

As you consider your options, make sure the RV can do what you want. If you are thinking about carrying a lot of people or carrying a lot of stuff, make sure the Occupant & Cargo Carrying Capacity (OCCC) is high enough to allow you to do this. Beware of glitz and eye-candy in general. With a Class C or B it isn't how much room you have, but how much weight you can carry.

Good luck with your search.

Yes, we are looking for something 24 feet or less. A C, B, or Van should meet that requirement. It's just my wife and myself going on short trips within 500 miles or so. We are able to pretty well share our SUV. However, there are times when having a 2nd vehicle would be be pretty helpful. Since I don't want to get a 2nd car just for those times, a small RV would fit the bill and also would allow us to get away a few times during the year. I don't like dealing with dealership ethics or lack thereof. They try their best to rope you into higher cost at every turn and having to hassle with them, at my age, is very irritating.

[Bordercollie]

Look at various models of Road Trek and other similar van conversions. They can have " all the comforts of home " but are like camping in a submarine. If you can tolerate limited elbow room and storage of stuff for short term camping and touring, and the high original cost of new van conversions, they are more useful as a daily driver. You might be able to buy a used van conversion from a private party at a reasonable cost. Our old 72 Dodge Family Wagon van/camper conversion was the most versatile vehicle we have ever owned but it was very basic, and dinette/bed could be re-arranged for hauling large things. Short Class C's have less comfortable sleeping accomodations and storage than 27 footers. Most RV's require some compromises.

[fireflock]

Forget MSRP. It's made up and based on nothing real.

NADA can range from sort of OK to really bad depending on how many of a particular make/model are sold via dealers. NADA doesn't track private sales. Data can be sparse for thinly traded RV's.

My strategy would be to decide on what you want and then look nationwide for prices at other dealers as well as on sites like rvtrader and craigslist.

Anything other than a van for a daily driver will get old quick. If you plan to use it less than once a week and have plenty of parking options then using something small as a second car could be OK.

[PghBob]

My opinion is that you should decide on a type of RV (Class C or B) first, then look at prices. Hopefully, you will have the RV a long time, so you really want to be sure you like the rig you picked. If you choose a rig solely or mostly on price, you might not be happy with the floor plan or quality and regret the purchase decision. I think you might want to consider going to a large RV show so that you can compare the various rigs side-by-side. Once you have decided on a brand and floor plan, you can negotiate. You can even send a letter to sales managers and request them to bid on a RV with your specs (but be certain what you want, options included) if you go this route.

Our Class C is 27 feet long. I have only used it once or twice as a daily driver. My point is, IMO, I would not consider an RV longer than 27 feet if you are thinking of using it for a daily driver. Poor gas mileage around town, wider, longer, parking etc. really does not make it desirable for this purpose. If a daily driver is what you want, lean towards a Class B or 24 foot or shorter Class C. I think, most important, is for you and any traveling companions to sit down and prioritize what is most important to you in an RV.

As you consider your options, make sure the RV can do what you want. If you are thinking about carrying a lot of people or carrying a lot of stuff, make sure the Occupant & Cargo Carrying Capacity (OCCC) is high enough to allow you to do this. Beware of glitz and eye-candy in general. With a Class C or B it isn't how much room you have, but how much weight you can carry.

Good luck with your search.