I thought I decided on a TT, Now studying Class C

[stevec22]

I have spent the last two months learning about TT's,


I recently started looking at class C MH's. If you have advise, advantages, suggestions I would love to hear them.

Limits and considerations.

Used 32-36', budget of $25k or so, probably looking at a 2000 or 2005 years.

I see mostly Ford 450 chassis with a V-10 motor, gas.

Are these motors good 200k miles? Should I stay under 50k if possible? up to 100k?

Is it better to look at older models, but better manufacturers? Say a 98 vs 2005 same price range?

Any thoughts to help decide between TT vs Class C?

[littlemo]

We love our Sunseeker 2450 (which is really 26 ft long). We have been to Florida twice now with no toad and have managed well. We now have all the tow equipment and will be towing from now on. This will be better because someplace like Yellowstone you need to be able to park the RV and drive your toad to tour the park. I like the ability to just pull up and have a picnic without having to get out of truck and go back to enter trailer. I also like being able to get up and go to the bathroom without stopping too!;).

Just keep looking at both and spend time in each while thinking about how you like to travel and to what type areas. We like State Parks and Nation Forests, etc so we bought a shorter class c. Hope you find what you want!

[JAXFL]

Opinions on here are like belly buttons everyone has one and the are all different.....lol

[Bordercollie]

Seems to me that towing a small vehicle behind a motorhome has many of the inconveniences in maneuvering etc., as in towing a small TT. You can rent a car occasionally when/if you really need one for touring places like NYC or Boston and leave your motorhome at the RV park. A medium sized motorhome can be disconnected from electrical and water and be driven off for shopping, going to local restaurants, etc. A 27-28 footer, without a toad, can be parked in most malls, parking lots, tourist attractions, etc. If you can't sit still, or do social camping and enjoy riding around with friends, a toad might be "needed"

[ron_dittmer]

Weight limitations is a very popular discussion with the biggest rigs. That is something to take seriously. You can't assume you can load of a huge rig with people, gear, food, and a tank full of fresh water and go in a safe manner.

Older rigs are most concerning, ones made before 2008 for as mentioned above, they handle less weight. You will have a much better chance staying within the chassis limits with a shorter rig in the 28 foot length without slide outs. Each slide out adds 400 to 600 pounds. some more yet. When you hit 30 feet and slide outs, you really want to be looking at a Super-C with a real truck chassis, or a class A.

The sweet spot to be with any rig when loaded up on a trip considering people, gear, food, fresh water, and towing, is about 1000 pounds under the max chassis load rating. This way if you pick up a few unexpected guests along the way, you can still rest easy. If you have too much margin, say 2000-3000 pounds or more, then the ride gets compromised, very stiff with your house, contents, and family shaken into pieces.

Those are my thoughts about it, not necessarily everyone's thoughts.

[PghBob]

The issue with a Class C that you might need to consider are weight ratings. An older E450 has a GVWR of 14050# I believe. We have a newer E450 that has a 14500 GVWR. GVWR is the maximum amount of weight that a given chassis and tires can safely carry. *In General*, the longer the Class C, the heavier. Also popular options like automatic levelers and slide outs add weight and subtract from OCCC (Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity), i.e., the weight of all people, pets, and stuff you can safely carry. A poster above noted that he/she wanted a 2700 pound OCCC and could only get that in a Class A. I would point out that our Class C has an OCCC of 2961#. Finally, another rate rating for you to consider. When towing, you should determine the GCWR, the Gross Combined Weight Rating of your tow vehicle. The GCWR is the totally loaded weight of the tow vehicle and the fully loaded tow weight of your toad. Our E450 GCWR is 20,000#. Hope this helps you determine what is the best fit RV for your family.

[ron_dittmer]

SteveC22,

I did not read through every reply so I may be repeating some data. I did notice that you last decided to focus on a TT. If you later swing towards a motor home again, this is what I share with people like you who ask such questions. This focuses on a class B+ & C, but much can apply to a class A as well.

Ron

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New, used, or well used, when shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and the punishment of road motion.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes have a limited selection of sizes.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is a more recent example, one of many I have read. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. Winnebago's View Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. Some manufacture models like the Minnie Winnie applies a compromising partial bucket design, making it a better choice compared to a fully seamed cab-over bed.

If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap
A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress. Some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but it offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing adjoining seam work.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.

If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public hopes it will become available for the RV industry. It is kind-of like a Sprinter in size and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable and easier to get serviced.

The Chevy 3500/4500 Chassis
I do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy adds an additional 6" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 6" more to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see our Ford E350 is quite tight already. That could be some of the reason why the Chevy offers a little more interior driver/passenger space.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & Chevy
Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Hmmm... as a used-car dealer who sells a lot of big work vans, the E-Super-Duties just keep running. We've sold vans with 150+k miles that have been great!

As a former Class C owner - they are awesome! Super-easy and fast to set up; nimble; and affordable. Ours was an entry-level 28' that served us flawlessly for 10 years - we traveled all over! Each night was a different place. Now, we are trying to learn to Snowbird and stay put for a week or more; so have gone to a 5th Wheel.

Biggest advantage of a Class C? Twice, we have been stuck in very slow-moving traffic jams for hours. In the C, we could snack, get beverages, switch off drivers during a stopped moment, so one of us could use the potty, etc. That's really hard to do with a trailer 😉

What would *I* look for? The "baby" - the pampered RV that lived indoors (if possible) or at least got meticulous care and maintenance. I think that's more important than build quality?

[JAXFL]

KZ sportsmen 241rks is a nice little lay out and for beginners should be good. Around 6000* and about $18K so fits the budget even with the safety equipment that you will need/want. Do not over load it and keep the TT balanced. After you get it loaded take to a weight station/truck stop and see how you did. I am guessing it is going to be new so enjoy.... I be gone.

[Hank85713]

Well let me take you another way. We just purchased a 2012 Winnebago class B+ at 28ft on the e450 chassis. We ended up buying a towd vehicle and if you don't have one plan on buying one and then the costs for the tow setup. For us it was easy as the guy we bought from gave us everything but the base plate for whatever vehicle. He towed a Mini Cooper we bought a new Hyundai Elantra as the used vehicles were generally going to cost as much and had bazillion miles on them.

We also have (had before the MH) a ford F350 and a 24 ft TT that we towed behind our old F250 gasser. Generally I prefer the TT as the truck is more comfortable than the Rv, but the wife like the ability to get up and go to the potty etc. I like the truck because it is way more comfortable and it really does not take much longer to set up than it does the RV. Oh I know everyone says pull in drop the jacks and you are done! But in reality you face the same leveling requirements for the Rv as the TT. I used a 1/2 in drive drill to raise lower the levelers on the trailer and setting up the sewer, electricity and water is a wash for both.

We found with the shorter TT we could get into places where you could not with bigger. One night we got to a campground that was full but they let us stay in park lot due to our TT size and we got a place the next day. the next Rv place was 80 miles away from where we wanted to be, thus when we looked for an RV 28-29 ft was the limit I set to get.

The best thing to do is rent a cl a and then a c and see which meets your wants. I don't want an A due to the sizes involved. I drive a school bus so don't want something that is just the same size as they are a PIA to drive in traffic and the class B is actually a little more aerodynamic than the A or C. We do not need all the beds as its just the 2 of us and the dinette will make into a bed if grand kids were ever to be involved (doubtful). Also the smaller size will allow for street parking. We spent some time visiting and a neighbor who was moving away from the area we were in said to park in his driveway and with the size we could. Could have backed the TT into drive if we had had it so we prefer the smaller size as indicated.

So as you can see there are pros cons to all. Only you can determine what is right, so if able go rent and try its cheaper than buying and finding out you don't like what ya got!

[stevec22]

JAXFL wrote:


ON EDIT: dealer you can trust a

Are there any of those out there? LOL

[stevec22]

Thanks again for the comments. My Yukon is the 5.7 V-8 and the specs say 7300 pounds, but the door sticker shows 6900 so that is why I stayed with a 4500 DW trailer.

Yes a smaller one would be easier to pull, but the floorplans were not what we needed. I have a deposit on a KZ sportsmen 241rks now, but not sure when the factory will actually run those units.

I knew that the Yukon would not be what we used on our trip as a secondary vehicle. I was anticipating trading in the DW's Subaru for a tow behind vehicle.

Based on the comments here, I will probably stay with the TT unless a great deal pops up on a MH.

Thanks again.

[Islandman]

I agree with jmtandem on going for a TT that's within your budget, get one that isn't too big for the pickup to pull. Then after RVing for a year or two with the TT, you may decide that if a MH fits your style better; then start shopping for one. I'd stay in the under 26ft length though and go for an older used top-line Class C such as Coach House or Chinook. You're probably looking at $30-40K or more for a 10-12 year old low mileage unit.

[jmtandem]

I have spent the last two months learning about TT's,


I recently started looking at class C MH's. If you have advise, advantages, suggestions I would love to hear them.

Limits and considerations.

Used 32-36', budget of $25,000 or so, probably looking at a 2000 or 2005 years.

You could find a very nice pre owned TT for about half your budget that fits the tow ratings of your tow vehicle. You are probably in the 20-22 foot TT range to stay within the tow ratings. That is minimal money to get into RVing and to get a feel for the lifestyle. Then, after the trip, decide if RVing is for you and your family and, if so, then what kind of RV you really want.

[toymaker10]

Just adding my 2 cents. I drove an 18 wheeler for 42 years and watching all the folks rv'ing mostly in the summer months, and I thought how I would love to do that when I retire. Unfortunately my late wife wanted nothing to do with the lifestyle so we retired to central Fl. like most senior citizens do and did the cruise thing and saw b'dwy road shows and such. Four and a half years after my lose, my LF {who is game} and myself partner'd up and bought a 24' Forester with one slide and the Chevy chassis,that we should have by the end of the month. I liked the more legroom besides the doghouse that the Chevy offered. We're not going to tow at this time sticking mostly to metro area's where we can use public trans, shuttles and at times rent a car. Will be doing mostly weekends,because she has 2 dogs that will need to be boarded. you might say I'm working on my bucket list.

[JAXFL]

Like I-d says... I have the 2008 V10 Ford 32'.....Very nice, almost certainly out of your price range.

You could not touch mine with only 12K miles on it for less that $50K, it looks like it just came off the assembly line. Also just put tires all the way around for $1500 so check them also on anything that has 7+ year old tires.

ON EDIT: before you pay for it (motorhome or trailer)...take it to a dealer you can trust and have them go over every part, that can save you thousands right from the start. It is not really any different than buying a used car, just more parts can go wrong.