Is there a preferred oil for the Ford V10 E-450?

[Valpo_Camper]

Yeah I am sorry, another oil thread.

Getting ready to change the oil in my 2005 Gulfstream. Book calls for the Ford 5W20 semi-synthetic oil which I have always used in the past but its getting harder to source. Seems Wally World is the only place I can find it for a reasonable price.

Is there another 5W20 that is possibly a better choice? Should I step up to a full synthetic? Filter wise I will pick up either a Motorcraft, Purolator, or Fram. Depends on price. Purolator makes Motorcraft and Fram for my applications has been excellent despite the bashing they get.

Champ labs, aka Fram, make the AC Delco, K & N, Mobile 1, Royal Purple oil filters. Seems that many will cuss Fram but praise the others on the list. Go figure.

But anyways off the side topic, which 5W20 oil? Leaning towards maybe Mobil 1 but I have no allegiance to them.

[DaCarmack]

Before I came into possession of this motorhome I believe it ran Ford brand of semi-synthetic. Since I've had it I ran Mobil 1 synthetic through it once. I have now run Chevron Havoline DS full synthetic In the six quart box they sell at Walmart. 5W20 and one 0w20. I run the motorcraft filters because they usually have them at Walmart. Buying the five quart jugs and one extra quart to get six, it is cheaper to get the cardboard box by a long shot. With Fords unfortunately having idiot gauges I can't tell you if it runs any better oil pressure or not.just that it seems to not say check gauges when I first started after it sits for a long time since I've switched over to the 0w20. No I don't need that but I like it anyway

[Grit_dog]

Or for the OP, just change the oil when ya should.
The engine internals will outlast the rest of the rig and if they don’t, there’s a 99% chance it’s not due to the oil.
Virtually anything more than routine standard maintenance is a myth or someone with too much time on their hands. Like mixing brands and weights for the “right” concoction.

[RambleOnNW]

I had been running Mobil 1 5W-20 Extended Performance and occasionally getting an oil analysis over a period of 10 years. Copper wear had been running higher, 8/10/10 ppm for 4100/4300/3750 mile oil change intervals. Universal average is 3ppm for 4400 mile interval.
The last test in ‘22 I ran 5 qts. 5w-20 EP and 1 qt. 0W-40. Copper wear dropped to 6 ppm on a 4600 mile change interval. But we had been taking it out more often too so it was sitting for shorter periods of time so perhaps less top-end start-up wear.
cST viscosity has increased too from 8.0 to 9.92 just out of the top end of the 5W-20 range of 6.0 - 9.7.

So I’m now running what ‘appeared’ to help, 5 qts. 5w-20 EP and 1 Qt. 0W-40 with a Napa Platinum filter. The platinum filter has full synthetic media.

One car works well with 0W-40 instead of 5w-30 (0W-40 is thinner now, Cst dropped from old oil 12.7 to 11.3) so I have plenty of that and use it for top up here and a 0W-20 car.

Could try 5W-30 synthetic but would have 4 quarts sitting around for up to 18 months. Easier to use 5W-20 5 Qt. jug and add a qt. of 0W-40.

[Grit_dog]

Friends don’t let friends run K&N filters. Not as bad since it’s naturally aspirated, and “ok” if you actually maintain them right, but otherwise wholly a waste of money with a much higher potential for ingesting dirt.

And again, just find some 5-20 or 5-30 syn oil. And use it. Brand doesn’t matter. Service interval does.

[Valpo_Camper]

Wound up getting a two 5 quart jugs of the FOMOCO 5W20 from Wally World for $26.XX each. They did not have quarts which is why I went large jugs.

Air Filter - I put a K-N in may years ago and will eventually clean and re-oil it.

Thanks everyone

[klutchdust]

Kirkland.(Costco) is now offering their own oil. who is bottling it for them.

I agree with grit dog that regular maintenance is the key. napa and WIx are the same filters, made in the same factory. Baldwin for HD applications is a good choice.
If you choose to have your vehicle serviced by the quick lube places ignore their wanting to change your air filter @ 35 to 40 dollars a piece. drive to your local auto parts store and get one for a fraction of the price. I am here to save you money.

As far as the preferred oil? IDK.

[bobndot]

As long as the oil you choose meets/exceeds the required specifications, . . . your good to go. It's that simple

Exactly , It is ‘that simple’. 🙂
That’s what the testers did with the NYC taxi motor oil testing.
There was ‘no extra magic’ in being brand specific .

[Chum_lee]

"Is there a preferred oil for the Ford V10 E-450?"

Well, I guess the real question here is, "Preferred by Who?" If you want to listen to the engineers who designed and built your engine, and millions of others just like it, go with what your owners manual says. Plturne has figured that out. (see link above) If you prefer not to, go with everyone (anyone) else. As long as the oil you choose meets/exceeds the required specifications, . . . your good to go. It's that simple.

Chum lee

[theoldwizard1]

Boutique oils are a rip off !

Stick with Motorcraft semi-synthetic. Good quality, good price. I wish Walmart still carried Motorcraft filters.

[time2roll]

I use Mobil 1 oil and filter. Ford products are great too. Ignore the price and get what the vehicle needs.

[Grit_dog]

Get a quality filter that doesn’t say Fram on the side of it and any 5W - something is fine.
I generally stick with the lighter weight 5-20 or 5-30 in Triton motors like yours due to the fact that they have smallish oil galleys.
Maybe Frams are better now. Idk and I don’t care. They used to be junk and there are so many other options it’s not worth trying to figure out.
Literally every other 4 stroke engine from lawn mowers to 500hp Hemis and diesels as well get 5-40 or 15-40 diesel oil in my fleet.
I’m sure the Triton would run on 0-40 or 5-40 as well but no need and I only have one of those engines and it doesn’t get a lot of miles and 5-20 5-30 syn can be found for the same price.
Oil brands and weight specificity is largely marketing in most cases (or that extra smidge to bump CAFE numbers).
There’s nothing to pine over here. Proper oil and filter changes are 90% of the equation and specific weights and filters are the other 10%. Just get off the internet and go change the oil and all will be good.

He!!, just ran gallons of 20-50 through a 5.3 LS. No problem but I wouldn’t do it in cold weather. It had a significant leak and the kid drove it about 15k miles daily last year, engine ran fine. (That heavy oil did reduce the cold start piston slap though! Lol) why? If it was coming out the bottom at a quart every 500 miles, I found it for like $12 a gallon.

[Plturne]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TL6QKSU/