ISL 400 engine thermostate

koda55 wrote:
I have a 2008 Thor Mandalay with a Cummins ISL 400 built in 2006. It calls for a 180 degree thermostat. Has anyone put in a 190 or 195 thermostat? DO you foresee any problems by going to a higher temperature.

Not a good idea. Prior to electronic engines, it was common to change thermostats values for one reason or another. These ISL engines with the tight fueling requirements and multiple sensors feeding into the ECM are looking for very specific running temps.

What it your reason for wanting to go to a higher temp unit?

steveownby wrote:

koda55 wrote:
I have a 2008 Thor Mandalay with a Cummins ISL 400 built in 2006. It calls for a 180 degree thermostat. Has anyone put in a 190 or 195 thermostat? DO you foresee any problems by going to a higher temperature.

Not a good idea. Prior to electronic engines, it was common to change thermostats values for one reason or another. These ISL engines with the tight fueling requirements and multiple sensors feeding into the ECM are looking for very specific running temps.

What it your reason for wanting to go to a higher temp unit?

X2.
Your ECM is programed around certain parameters. No way would I change it.

Why would you want to change it? Most people are trying to cool their engine off. Is the front, where your sit while driving, not staying warm enough?

Bill

Yes, the temp in the drivers and passenger seat is not warm. Back flushed the heater core and it did not help. The heater valve is working properly. It opens and closes like it should. My temp on my scan gauge is 177. It goes up to 179 at times on flat land and not higher. When pulling a mountain I get lots of heat out of the heater. That is why I was wondering if it would be possible to put a higher thermostat in.

Why don't you run the MH's furnace to keep warm when driving then?

I would try covering 3/4 of the engine radiator with cardboard... like truckers do with canvas in the winter. If this helps I'd consider putting a temperature controlled fan on instead of the always on/direct drive one you probably have. With that you could cover 1/2 in the winter and get better MPG all year long.

Be careful of using cardboard. It can deteriorate and clog the radiator fins.

koda55 wrote:
Yes, the temp in the drivers and passenger seat is not warm. Back flushed the heater core and it did not help. The heater valve is working properly. It opens and closes like it should. My temp on my scan gauge is 177. It goes up to 179 at times on flat land and not higher. When pulling a mountain I get lots of heat out of the heater. That is why I was wondering if it would be possible to put a higher thermostat in.

It's a long run from the engine to the front seats. It's also a big area of coach behind you that the heat dissipates into. I would do as has been suggested and run the coach furnace.

Jaxom wrote:
Be careful of using cardboard. It can deteriorate and clog the radiator fins.

On a DP the air is coming out of the radiator making it hard to stop the air flow. On a previous Beaver MH it had an additional heater off the engine in the back. Really helped in keeping it warm for free in the winter. Unless you are traveling in the winter often, running the coach heat may be your cheapest option.

On a couple of trips, my wife insisted on having hotter air around her feet. I brought up a couple of small box heaters(120vac), plugged them in and ran the generator. It worked great.
IMO the hot water cools down too much going from back there all the way to the front (whenever the outside temperature is THAT cold).