Koni or Bilstein?

They're both good. Go with whatever you can get.

Should I add Sumo springs?

This has come up many times here and it seems to be equally divided,the Koni shocks are about twice the cost and get some good reviews and I know of One Member that would gladly exchange his for the Bilsteins that he used on a previous RV,expensive is not necessarily better.

The Koni shock was not in production for Class C when I wanted new shocks but even now I would not opt to buy them.


I will recommend the Bilsteins they did not make the ride any harsher and stopped the porpoising and the ride is smoother and cornering has lot less body roll.

I have used Bilstein shocks on all my vehicles for many years and have been pleased with their performance.

EMD360 wrote:
Should I add Sumo springs?

I plan to, at some point, add Sumo Springs for curb roll.

Agreed , Either or Bils or Koni’s. End result is the same. I have used both.
Not so sure about Sumo’s or if HD sway bars would accomplish the same thing. Don’t really know.

EMD360 wrote:
We had a heavier than normal load last weekend and I rode in the back where the bouncing and rattling and sway were very uncomfortable. Even without the load I think the ride is too rough I’m thinking of having the shocks replaced with top of the line versions. I’ve read that both Koni and Bilstein are great. As you know parts are hard to get right now. Should I get whatever they can get of these two or specify?

Some Koni shock types compete with Bilstein shock types - but those Koni types would probably be more expensive than the equivalent Bilstein models ... so in that case the Bilstein models might be the better price choice.

HOWEVER, for smaller/lighter-weight motorhomes that do not heavily pre-load the rear springs of the chassis that they're built on ... the special Koni shock that you want would be their FSD shock ... which I don't think that Bilstein offers an equivalent to.

The Koni Frequency Selective Damping model ("FSD") shocks automatically adjust themselves so as to offer low or no resistance on quick bumps like roadway potholes and cracks. The rest of the time, Koni FSD shocks automatically adjust themselves so as to offer the regular stiff shock damping control that is needed for slower occuring forces applied to the springs.

As an example regarding our 24 ft. slideless Class C on it's overkill Ford E450 chassis - it had a lot of pounding in the rear from potholes and cracks. That pounding has been radically reduced because of the Koni FSD shocks I had installed in the rear several years ago.

The rest of the time, the stability and control with the Koni FSD shocks remain about the same as they were with the stock Ford OEM shocks in the rear of our a small Class C on an E450 chassis.

Not sure our Winnie 25b would be considered light weight. While it’s in the shop I’m also having an alignment and having the tires checked for wear.

EMD360 wrote:
Should I add Sumo springs?

Hi,

When I resprung my Rv, I added a leaf and replaced the defunct air bags with Timbrins

I've been happy with my Koni FSDs; they seem to work as advertised. I do have Ride-Rite air helper springs in the back that help a lot with the stiffness of the suspension there (aiding in controlling sway and bouncing). That's not to suggest the motorhome rides like a luxury car.

If you're a DIY type, replacing the rear shocks in the Ford E-series chassis is a piece of cake. Replacing the front ones is considerably less convenient; access to the top nut for the front shocks is difficult. I found a flex-head ratcheting box-end wrench the best tool for the job, or perhaps more accurately the least terrible tool.

If you're getting bumping and clunking in the steering wheel, also check the tie rod ends for looseness and the radius arm bushings.

Hopefully the entire suspension will be checked. Shop advice was try the sumo springs first as pulling the leaf springs to add another is expensive. I’m not very DIY when it’s automotive.