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LED Mod wih pics

Executive45
Explorer III
Explorer III
So, it was raining today. I decided to fix one of my overhead florescent fixtures. The ballast had failed and I didn't want to spend the $$ for a new fixture. I purchased a roll of LED's and ends from Amazon for $19.90 including shipping. The roll of LEDs is 16.4 feet long and I used two strips, each 16" long, so I have tons left over. The ends came 10 to a pack so I have 9 left. Here's some pics:


BEFORE


AFTER


BEFORE


AFTER

The install was easy. Remove the plastic cover and the florescent tubes. Turn off power. Remove ballast cover by squeezing and pulling down. Snip the black and white wires and save. Snip all other wires and tube ends and discard. Using the ballast cover allows you to assemble the lights on your workbench. (I originally was going to use four strips but two is more than sufficient.) Measure the length of the LED strip and cut on the mark. Peel the backing off the LED strip and install. (I used double sided tape, cut lengthwise for extra holding power) For the second strip, use one of the 10 connectors. Attach both the red wires from the LED strips to the black wire from the fixture. Attach both the black wires from the LED strips to the white wire from the fixture. Reassemble and turn it on....DONE!

Here's the parts list:
10 Piece LED Strip Connectors
LED strip lights
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22 REPLIES 22

ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
bsport wrote:
Going to replace lights in kitchen, what did you use (cool bright, soft bright)? What is the difference in the amount of light.

Led's usually come Warm White or Cool White.
The ones link in first post of this thread are Warm White. Close to a Soft White color.
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krivanj
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you Mr Wizard for the regulator info. Just what I needed!
We had some LED lights that evidentally fried because the converter made more than 12v (13.3v) so I think this is needed.
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bsport
Explorer
Explorer
Going to replace lights in kitchen, what did you use (cool bright, soft bright)? What is the difference in the amount of light.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Something like this



2.2 amp 12v regulator

The one amp version will work for the 18 watt fixture

But the 18" tube , 30 watt fixture will need either the 2.2 amp version
Or two of the 1 amp version l.p.
One for each strip
Technically two strips 10 watts would be 800 milliamps at 12.5v, but at 14+ volts from converter or solar etc..The difference will be absorbed by the regulator, 1 amp 12 volt is 12 watts
The heavier version regulator is a safety, to keep the regulator from over heating, built in a safety margin and not worry about it
We off grid most of the time, ,so nighttime and lights are quiet time for us, no generator no solar, strictly battery power 12+ volts
I'm going to add the regulators but they are not a big worry for me
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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krivanj
Explorer
Explorer
Would one of you be so kind as to list what to but for a regulator chip?
Thanks in advance
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ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
The original ones I put in had 4 tabs. That contributed to the connection problems.
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MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I thought about soldering when I run out of connectors

I noticed right away, with the first strip
That cutting exactly on the marked center, of the copper connector , it came up short when placing it in the connector

I solved that by cutting it to the outside, leaving all the copper contact area on one end of the strip, none on the other end, long end placed into connector, makes a better, connection
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
MrWizard wrote:

i think i will need another connector kit

You could just solder 20 gauge wire to the strips. Works very well after tinning tabs on strips. Then put a piece of shrink over the connections. I originally did my connections with the snap connectors. A few days later some of the strips did not work. Found it was bad connection with tabs. Went to soldering with no more problems.
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MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
the two replacement strips in place of the two 9w tubes
are an almost perfect match,
same amount of light, but a slight difference in color, not as white
its a slight shading difference mainly noticed when holding a hand under the different lights and doing a comparison

on the 30w fixture, same color difference, but two strips are NOT QUITE the same amount of light
close, but it is s little less, my reflectors are shaped difference and im sure this has some effect
i'm going to add one more strip to the 30w above my left shoulder , that should be more than equal to the previous amount of light
I love the lower power drain, 10w vs 30w

i think i will install 12v regulator chips so that the LEDS are never over driven with too much voltage
pictures coming soon

my calculations say the small 18w fixture is now using 7w
and the 30w fixture is now using 10w, this will go up to 15w when i add the third strip tomorrow
i want the extra output, as this is the light i sit under when reading a book
the rest of the 18w and 30w fixtures will be converted with two strips each, like the current configuration

i think i will need another connector kit
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
my kit arrived
i'm going to do a test with two strips( 42 leds ) in the 30w fixture over my desk entertainment area
and two strips ( 30 leds ) in one of the small bathroom Fl that use the 9w tubes
yeah i've already measured and started cutting

my reflectors are shaped different than the ones in Dennis's fixtures
the center is flat and the bends make the other surfaces almost right angle vertical, aiming the light sideways, i will most likely have to use the flat surface aiming the LEDS straight down
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

DSDP_Don
Explorer
Explorer
Dennis.......Wow....First the new refer and now LED's, sounds like the beginning of a remodel.:B

Lights look good. I did the replacement in my Diplomat and liked the light and how quickly they came on.
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MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Dennis
i ordered the same system today from amazon
should be here in a couple of days
by this weekend i will start converting my overhead Fl
i'm tired of paying $8 each for replacement tubes
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
smlranger wrote:
I also replaced the fluorescent lights in my overheads with LED strips. However, I used too many strips and they are really bright. I may remove some strips when the mood hits. It was a cheap and easy mod, far cheaper than replacing even one of the fluorescent lights.

Now, if anyone can tell me how to replace that burning hot 120v 20watt halogen bulb with LED on the underside of the GE Advantium microwave oven. It serves as the over counter light and it gets so hot the DW hates to use it.

I looked up your MW. It has 20 Watt 12 volt G-4 bulbs. Part # WB36X10176. That's the same bulb type that is used in the puck lights that a lot of motorhomes have. I could not find if they are AC or DC. But there are a lot of AC DC compatible G4 bulbs listed on EBAY. Good luck on your search.
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smlranger
Explorer
Explorer
I also replaced the fluorescent lights in my overheads with LED strips. However, I used too many strips and they are really bright. I may remove some strips when the mood hits. It was a cheap and easy mod, far cheaper than replacing even one of the fluorescent lights.

Now, if anyone can tell me how to replace that burning hot 120v 20watt halogen bulb with LED on the underside of the GE Advantium microwave oven. It serves as the over counter light and it gets so hot the DW hates to use it.
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