P30 Fuel Pump Service Life?

[Cousin_Eddy1]

Trying to be pro active an do preventative maintenance. How long with the fuel pump last in a 1995 P30 chevy motor home chassis? Is it mileage, time or both? Anyone have to replace theirs already? Thanks.

[Rog___Nan]

Our unit is 22 years old. Had to replace fuel pump in tank 2 years ago,at 60,000 miles. It was failing intermittently, mechanic said if it does it to bang on tank and it will work. Had to do it once before part came in for him to replace it. We are seasonal users of the unit.

[Jim]

Cousin_Eddy wrote:
So, 23 year old motorhome (1995) with 72000 miles, should I replace it?

If you're worried about it, why not just get an external fuel pump? Add it to the system, reduce some of the work the in tank pump is doing. And reduce your work in the process since there's no need to drop the tank. Race cars use externals along with their in tank pumps for redundancy. Sometimes they just remove the in tank pump and go external for more room for the fuel. (This trick wouldn't help if your top-of-tank hoses get holes worn in them of course).

Takes an hour to install an external along with a filter preceding it. I added mine to my diesel engine at the rear of the RV next to the engine. Tank was up front just behind the front axle. Attached it to the frame rail and powered it from an IGN wire I found up on the engine. Added it after my mechanic told me the in tank pump was 'weak' whatever that is. Pump is 8GPM. Worked fine for 12 years when I sold the RV.

Wrote up a blog article about it.

External fuel pump article...

Here's some AirTex external pumps.

External Pumps

[77rollalong]

you can always do some careful measurements as to where the fuel pump(s) are located from the outside, and transfer them to the inside, may get lucky that the pump not be under the hot water tank or something like that, worse part is when you have just filled the tank and a few miles down the road it fails. Over the years i have had to drop many full tanks, not too bad if you have a transmission jack though, would rather drop one almost empty though.. but that does not happen often.. Just remember some had a prefilter (sock) over the end , always replace that, and check the lines on the top of the sending unit if there are steel, have had to rebuild a few sending units replacing the lines, and brazing in new lines.. Outside of the tank of course..

[tropical36]

Cousin_Eddy wrote:
Im thinking the fuel pump is the primary single point failure item. Probably the only thing that will stop the RV dead and require a tow. So, how you know where to put the hole under the bed? Gotta drop the tank first?

I would hope not for dropping the tank, although maybe a little if you can't line things up, any other way.
If you have a place directly above it, you're mostly there already, so it may take some feeling around, a mirror and flashlight, etc...etc...,but just be sure you measure everything twice and more.
start with a small hole and enlarge it little by little to get it just right. How large depends on your space and what you can purchase at a marine supply store or other for an access plate. It will sure save a bundle of everything, if you can accomplish this and of course if it's ever needed. Many could use it for generator rubber fuel hose failures and even if the fuel pump never goes out.

[Cousin_Eddy1]

Im thinking the fuel pump is the primary single point failure item. Probably the only thing that will stop the RV dead and require a tow. So, how you know where to put the hole under the bed? Gotta drop the tank first?

[Gjac]

I think the fuel pump is like any other electrical part it can go at 10k miles or 100k. My first one was replaced by the PO before 20k miles and the second one was replaced last year while on a trip at 120k miles. The thing I learned about it is just because the fuel pressure is to spec does not mean the fuel pump is good, it also has to pump the correct volume. If you think about it there is a lot more fuel flowing through a MH fuel pump that gets 8 mpg than a car that gets 40 mpgs. Mine did not fail all at once, at first I just had to give it a little gas to get it started then more gas as time went on. To answer your proactive question, it is very difficult finding places that can fit you in during summer travel especially the further you get from metropolitan areas so I like the idea of those that have cut an access hole under the bed to replace it if it fails on the road. Also have the correct PN that you need available.

[Cousin_Eddy1]

So, 23 year old motorhome (1995) with 72000 miles, should I replace it?

[Chum_lee]

Cousin_Eddy wrote:
Do these fuel pumps loose pressure or flow rate over time? Or, do they just stop working and you are dead in the water with no warning?

Both.

Chum lee

[Cousin_Eddy1]

Do these fuel pumps loose pressure or flow rate over time? Or, do they just stop working and you are dead in the water with no warning?

[Chum_lee]

Sometimes, not always, a failing in tank pump will start to make noise (beyond the normal hum) prior to failure. On cars it's generally easier to hear inside because of the proximity to the cabin, but, on gas fueled motor homes often you can often hear it if you stand at the rear of the motor home (near the fuel tank) with the engine running at idle. If you hear a growling, whining noise (increasing over time) coming from the fuel tank area, chances are your days to fuel pump failure are numbered. On the other hand I've had them fail without warning too. Go figure!

Chum lee

[77rollalong]

The fuel pumps run 10 to 15 sec when the ign is turned on to prime the fuel rail, once started the oil pressure switch proves the motor is running and keeps fuel flowing on the GM's
fuel pumps is one thing that can go at any time like a headlight bulb, best to go with the OEM type, found less problems. also if you rig has steel lines coming out of the sending unit make sure the lines are in good condition as well, not a bad idea to coat the top side of the gas tank and lines with undercoating, some of the newer fuel pumps come as an assemble, fuel pump/ sending unit all plastic , and plastic lines and no rust problems..

[lonfu]

Thought I'd mention this, dropping the tank is no problem once you get the fuel out of the tank. A floor jack works the best with some 2x6 on the jack, some 4x4's on the floor to lower the tank onto and some clear safety glasses to keep the dirt out of you eyes.

[Cousin_Eddy1]

Nice! Those are some respectable miles. Thats like 4000 hrs plus. This is a good data point. Thanks

[azpete]

workhorse service rep told me it was 1000 hours.
mine dies after 187000 miles
2002 winnebago chieftain