Possible return to RV life

[cheeze1]

Hi Folks, there’s a < chance> we might be getting another B+ or C. Since I’ve been out of the loop since 2012, I don’t have all my RV resources anymore.
We will be looking for a smaller (up to 25’) one with hopefully 1 slide out, rear bed preferred, but we have to be flexible in the used market.
Lower mileage is a plus.
What are the ‘newer’ websites where we might start looking?
Thanks everyone!!

[Skid_Row_Joe]

youracman wrote:
Not a "newer" one, Chas .......... but still the gold std for a lot of RVers.

https://www.rvtrader.com

Good luck in the hunt ...... and a welcome return to the RV community.

RVTrader.com is where I bought mine. If you're buying used, that is.

[Grit_dog]

valhalla360 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

Would be real easy for someone to spend $1000s on repairs, especially if they're not able or capable of being a shadetree mechanic. Heck, just new brakes (1 of the long list of items) all around for someone taking it to a shop, is an easy 4 figure bill.

Thousands...
Possible...yes.
Likely....no.

You hear stories of people buying new units and getting stuck with thousands in bills.

If it really worries you, pay a mechanic to go over the drivetrain.

Has nothing to do with people getting "stuck" with repairs on new RVs. The RV portion usually has a year warranty, so stands to reason anything needed after a year is $ out of pocket. But the chassis has a factory warranty.

If you cannot recognize the additional maint and repair that a vehicle needs between 100k and 200k compared to 0-100k, and the additional expense of having everything done at a shop, then I wouldn't expect you to agree with me.

Correct and based on experience, I don't agree with you.

Your theory made sense back in the 50-60's when 100k was all you could expect out of a drivetrain before it was shot. Modern drivetrains, no reason to expect huge costs buying around 100k miles unless there are signs of problems ahead of time.

I’m not talking about the drivetrain itself. Engine, trans, rear end.
I’m talking about everything else. And the cost for a hands off person to have all the repairs and maintenance done at a shop.
Short list of expected repairs/maint between 100-200k.
U joints
Shocks
Brakes (full meal deal including rotors)
Front end (tie rods ball joints etc)
Major fluid flushes/ replacement. All of them.
Tune up. You get to be the first one to pull a set of Ford spark plugs at 100k if you buy a Ford. (Good luck, you’ll need it)
Alternator
Water pump maybe
Tires batteries

Not saying it costs more than a new or newer low mile rig, but the bulk of the above things are pretty much a certainty and if you add up all that including shop rates, you’re greatly mistaken that it won’t be $5k or more, easily.
If you do all your own work you may not understand or if you are a don’t fix it until it’s really broke, you may not but should understand and add towing bills or AAA to the cost as well.
Or maybe your mythical 100k+ mile RV or truck has magically had all that stuff replaced before the rental company dumped it for a new one.
Why do you think they sell them?? Lol. Just run those numbers. They’re not in the business of spending more than it takes to achieve max revenue.

But like most discussions here, I suspect you understand, but cannot accept any opinions that differ from your own.

[Grit_dog]

cheeze1 wrote:
FOLKS, THANK YOU all for your input. We just had a long talk and as much as we loved our RV, our lives have changed to where it would not work for us. We appreciate all the kind advice and wish all of you luck and safe travels!

I can’t tell if this response means you just decided you’re not getting another RV or what.
But best of luck either way!

[NamMedevac_70]

Welcome aboard the ti. All is good.

[valhalla360]

Grit dog wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

Would be real easy for someone to spend $1000s on repairs, especially if they're not able or capable of being a shadetree mechanic. Heck, just new brakes (1 of the long list of items) all around for someone taking it to a shop, is an easy 4 figure bill.

Thousands...
Possible...yes.
Likely....no.

You hear stories of people buying new units and getting stuck with thousands in bills.

If it really worries you, pay a mechanic to go over the drivetrain.

Has nothing to do with people getting "stuck" with repairs on new RVs. The RV portion usually has a year warranty, so stands to reason anything needed after a year is $ out of pocket. But the chassis has a factory warranty.

If you cannot recognize the additional maint and repair that a vehicle needs between 100k and 200k compared to 0-100k, and the additional expense of having everything done at a shop, then I wouldn't expect you to agree with me.

Correct and based on experience, I don't agree with you.

Your theory made sense back in the 50-60's when 100k was all you could expect out of a drivetrain before it was shot. Modern drivetrains, no reason to expect huge costs buying around 100k miles unless there are signs of problems ahead of time.

[Grit_dog]

valhalla360 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

Would be real easy for someone to spend $1000s on repairs, especially if they're not able or capable of being a shadetree mechanic. Heck, just new brakes (1 of the long list of items) all around for someone taking it to a shop, is an easy 4 figure bill.

Thousands...
Possible...yes.
Likely....no.

You hear stories of people buying new units and getting stuck with thousands in bills.

If it really worries you, pay a mechanic to go over the drivetrain.

Has nothing to do with people getting "stuck" with repairs on new RVs. The RV portion usually has a year warranty, so stands to reason anything needed after a year is $ out of pocket. But the chassis has a factory warranty.

If you cannot recognize the additional maint and repair that a vehicle needs between 100k and 200k compared to 0-100k, and the additional expense of having everything done at a shop, then I wouldn't expect you to agree with me.

[valhalla360]

Grit dog wrote:

Would be real easy for someone to spend $1000s on repairs, especially if they're not able or capable of being a shadetree mechanic. Heck, just new brakes (1 of the long list of items) all around for someone taking it to a shop, is an easy 4 figure bill.

Thousands...
Possible...yes.
Likely....no.

You hear stories of people buying new units and getting stuck with thousands in bills.

If it really worries you, pay a mechanic to go over the drivetrain.

[cheeze1]

FOLKS, THANK YOU all for your input. We just had a long talk and as much as we loved our RV, our lives have changed to where it would not work for us. We appreciate all the kind advice and wish all of you luck and safe travels!

[pnichols]

cheeze1 wrote:
Hi Folks, there’s a < chance> we might be getting another B+ or C. Since I’ve been out of the loop since 2012, I don’t have all my RV resources anymore.
We will be looking for a smaller (up to 25’) one with hopefully 1 slide out, rear bed preferred, but we have to be flexible in the used market.
Lower mileage is a plus.
What are the ‘newer’ websites where we might start looking?
Thanks everyone!!

Charles -

Look for a used Winnie Minnie 22M or Spirit 22M model (both are built by Winnebago)!

They come on the Ford E350 chassis for great stability and overall handling in a small Class C. Their tanks are large for a small Class C, and they have one slide for a walk-around bed:
https://www.winnebago.com/models/product/motorhomes/class-c/minnie-winnie?floorplans=true

[RetiredRealtorR]

klutchdust wrote:
wrote "Notice how they 'conveniently' leave off the mileage. After all, why would mileage be important to anyone??"

Having wrenched for a career i can honestly say i would choose a vehicle with high mileage and a detailed maintenance program over something " we tried to change the oil before every trip" or what's a fuel filter" Or my neighbor said .........

My understanding rentals come with details from day one. 100K miles on today's engines is their break in period. The days of engines giving out at 100k is long gone.
trannys the same thing, unless you buy into the "flush" idea which causes more damage than good. My friend jerry, who owned a shop for 35 years heard it toooo many times. "I just had it flushed, what could go wrong".
Plenty. Don't do it.

And purchasing a used unit from a dealer is scary. No maintenance logs, most likely came from an auction or repo. If your rig is getting repo'ed would you maintain it?
Can't make the payment again honey but did you get the oil changed? Choose wisely.

And yes the market is very strong for sellers. Newbies getting into the market to go on adventures. I took advantage of that with 2 of my vehicles and did very well.

Very true, but we can't look at only the mechanicals of the unit. The house and all its components has to be considered as well. Not necessarily the age of it, but the use (or misuse) of it. Remember, the last time most renters had experience with the ins and outs of a motorhome is 'never' -- sorry, still not my cup of tea.

[lhenry8113]

Few years ago we purchased a used 2017 F.R. Forester 2251LE on a Chevy 450 chassis with 6.0 gas engine. The DLR had gone thru it and it was still under Factory warranty. It's 24ft and has rear slide for camper queen bed. We wanted a Chevy chassis instead of Ford or Mercedes. Also, stove oven as well as microwave, side windows in overhead berth, V8 gas engine, rear mounted spare tire and ladder. Had about 7000 miles on it-had been a leased vehicle-now has 18,000 miles on it. Haven't had any problems. Love being able to take it any where we want to go. Even at Ca. State Park system it's considered a regular size vehicle.

[cheeze1]

We are ‘flexible’ as to bed location. Seems like the ones with rear beds (island) are usually with longer coaches. Either way, we prefer a bed that is sortof ‘permanent’ rather than a jackknife, which we eventually abandoned when I rebuilt the interior into a version of the “Built for 2” with permanent beds on each side.

[Grit_dog]

Grit dog wrote:

klutchdust wrote:
wrote "Notice how they 'conveniently' leave off the mileage. After all, why would mileage be important to anyone??"

Having wrenched for a career i can honestly say i would choose a vehicle with high mileage and a detailed maintenance program over something " we tried to change the oil before every trip" or what's a fuel filter" Or my neighbor said .........

My understanding rentals come with details from day one. 100K miles on today's engines is their break in period. The days of engines giving out at 100k is long gone.
trannys the same thing, unless you buy into the "flush" idea which causes more damage than good. My friend jerry, who owned a shop for 35 years heard it toooo many times. "I just had it flushed, what could go wrong".
Plenty. Don't do it.

And purchasing a used unit from a dealer is scary. No maintenance logs, most likely came from an auction or repo. If your rig is getting repo'ed would you maintain it?
Can't make the payment again honey but did you get the oil changed? Choose wisely.

To the high mileage remarks, yes, I agree, 100k is generally nowhere near the end of the useful life of major truck drivetrain components. However, having "wrenched for a career", certainly you recognize that engine and transmission rebuilds are not your day to day bread n butter. But at 100k miles, there is a plethora of other maintenance or repairs that can or will come due. I could start a list, but you know what I'm talking about and it would be a long list.
Would be real easy for someone to spend $1000s on repairs, especially if they're not able or capable of being a shadetree mechanic. Heck, just new brakes (1 of the long list of items) all around for someone taking it to a shop, is an easy 4 figure bill.

Another consideration is how long they plan on owning it, how many miles will be put on and equity/resale ability. I could make the case of driving a 100k mile rig "into the ground" figuratively speaking as being the most cost effective, but it is not for many.
Nevermind the subjective considerations like having a high mile, worn out or "broke in" bare bones ex-rental rig.
Notwithstanding how people care for rentals, regardless of whether the rental agency is performing timely oil changes.

In short, there is some merit to buying a high mile rental and the potential cost savings it provides, but the coin is not 1 sided.

Or to put it succinctly, why would the rental places just get rid of what you are purporting to be "just past it's breakin period"?
Answer: It's more economical for them to sell while it retains some value AND not deal with the expense and downtime due to repairs that you are not recognizing as a real consideration.

[Grit_dog]

And I would almost never buy used form a dealer, especially used high miles, without very careful consideration.

Private party is the way to go, not only for the (hopeful) cost savings, but the ability to glean info on the previous owner and their propensity for taking care of their belongings, RV included.