So onward to ripping the sides off, I was going to try and salvage the sides but afterward, I tried to pull most screws and they were rusted and stuck, impact screwdriver was my friend here. Then I started getting into it, and one thing led to another, so I am salvaging the parts like the doors, windows, most interior pieces. But with the smell of mildew, I am not taking the chance. Structurally sound is a big NOGO. I will try and upload the pics later, will be going down to the floor after I rip that roof off (maybe salvageable, which will be a big plus, this is where I will align my studs for the sides along with the bracing to attach cabinets and such. My plan here is to salvage the rocker panels and the front nose where the windshield is, although these parts will get a new coating.
So thoughts while I was ripping this thing down, after looking underneath and seeing how they made it to the 40 ft mark is really disturbing, seems like automotive car wise, there is no standard or rules really on how motorhomes are constructed. If it works for now it's good enough I guess. (going to the drawing board on this one) if anyone has any layout ideas I would like to hear them.) My thoughts are to maybe make the motor home shorter. I do not see in reality how this is supposed to tow anything. I am very surprised that the thing hasn't collapsed. Looking at the wood compared to the steel, wood is going to be my number one option with aluminum being high on the list as far as support. So the passenger side may get a door depending on if I can find one. I am going to install electric mirrors (which seems like I have an abundance of)
While bringing down the AC units, the thought crossed my mind on how a dual-zone ac unit on a car worked compared to a home ac system, compared to how the RV system is set up compared to a split mini-unit. Is there a reason I cannot find a permanent magnet motor for the AC unit? Does the unit really need two separate systems or can I use stacked condensers to run both units off a single overhead unit? But of course, I would need the evaporator inside. Put those units were heavy, I will see if anyone has any ideas on this and research what I am going to be doing.
How much do the foam boards actually suppose to weigh, mine were like almost 20 pounds each section (maybe it still had some water or something in it). Comparing to the alternatives to skin it and seal with some insulation leaving the cavities somewhat open.
So my thoughts right now have come to mind to strip it down all the way and clean it up, alternatively, maybe sell it as a stripped chassis with a rebuilt engine. I am not sure how much someone would be willing to pay for that compared to it previously but for me, I think I would have paid a fair amount, knowing that most works had been done, has a sound engine/trans, and would be ready to customize the back end.
And then my thoughts if I get another one, what would keep it from knowing how it was built and what shortcuts were taken. It's just the comfort and satisfaction of knowing this. Yes, maybe a little more hard work compared to the turnkey and go models and get rid of it when it starts to have problems. But my thought process on this is what it would be worth to me. I know most people don't have the time to put into this.
My wife commented after I tore it down, just put a connex on the back of it??? And there goes my mind thinking once again on if it would it is a feasible thought if any extreme work needed to be done then unbolt lift and proceed. What may be a half-day work to remove the box? You could maybe get two or three different ones depending on what you were about to do. (even lighter would be the haul shipping container things)