Refrigerator won't come on

ROYBUCK wrote:
Checking everything out for the summer, couldn't get the Refrigerator to come on, reset the breaker, checked the GFCI it is OK couldn't find but one in the bed room. I am not a Electrician, and don't have a tester. When I had the MH Power washed yesterday could he have got something in there wet. It worked when I parked it in the fall. Thanks Roy

When you get too much water in the back panel, it may cause the Norcold safety box to go in error mode, reset with magnet.

Terry

OK......you have 120V AC power to outlet that fridge power cord plugs into....correct?

NOW.......are the upper panel lights working
IF not you don't have 12V DC power to fridge (or on fridge circuit board)

There are at least 2 fuses on lower circuit board (control module) 1 for AC heater circuit (usually 5A glass fuse) and 1 for 12V DC (can be glass or a mini fuse---3A/5A)
You have to remove cover...that usually mean you have to unplug the power cord from the board and the 12V DC leads from board before you can remove cover.

12V DC power to fridge comes from your DC Dist Panel (usually part of AC Panel) where house section fuses are.

BUT if fridge control panel (panel where you turn fridge on/off) has lights then you have 12V DC power.

DO you have lights on panel?

WHAT BRAND/MODEL of fridge???

gfs 1943 I have power to the out side outlet. ewarneruse where is the power distribution center, is it behind the Ref. The manual says they are a fuse behind the black panel, but according to the instructions I am not comfortable with the instructions. Thanks

Roy, I suspect you're right on with the question about the power washer. I suspect there's another GFCI in the bathroom or kitchen area, that supplies your outside outlets and fridge outlet. The power washing could have got water into the outside power outlet and tripped that GFCI. Check it out by plugging any portable appliance, light, etc. into your outside outlet or the fridge outlet (usually inside the outside vent compartment). If no power to those outlets, there's another GFCI somewhere; could even be in a storage compartment. If there is power to those outlets, it's me who is all wet.

Dale.Traveling wrote:
Check your 12VDC power. Propane or 120VAC may cool the fridge but the fridge brain runs off 12VDC. Same as your heating and cooling system. Roof A/C maybe 120VAC but the thermostat on the wall is 12VDC.

This is what I thought as well. Check for a burnt out 12V fuse in the power distribution center.

Check your 12VDC power. Propane or 120VAC may cool the fridge but the fridge brain runs off 12VDC. Same as your heating and cooling system. Roof A/C maybe 120VAC but the thermostat on the wall is 12VDC.

I recommend that all owners of Class A rv's make an attempt to learn basic-basic electricity, and learn to use a $15 multimeter.
Of course, if you can well afford to pay for maintenance and repairs, and you are not THAT interested in learning these things,.....this recommendation is not for you.

As others will probably say...your batteries need to be up to snuff..otherwise the dc electronics that control the refrigerator will not function. Do your dc lights work brightly, another indicator of battery power. You should have gauges that indicate state of charge with COACH batteries as well as chassis batteries. as routine maintenance you should check water level of coach batteries.

Is it a noracold?
If so open the service door look for a black box with a led light if on the box got wet and cut the fridge off.