Roof maitenance

RJL wrote:
What should I be doing to maintain the roof on our rig? No leaks but stored in my driveway outside.

I fixed a few leaks on mine and noticed when doing so that the factory did a crappy job at putting the vents and other items in the roof. They basically just screwed them down and put self leveling caulk over the top. So I ended up removing everything, cleaning the surfaces real good, and then using the putty tape (I forget what it's called, and a small amount of self leveling caulk, and then sealing it all with eternabond tape.

I'm 210 and I always wear tennie runners up there and carry a foam pad to kneel on. There have been times when I had a lot to do up there that I pulled a 3' X 3' 1/2" piece of plywood up there to kneel on while working, just to spread the weight.

I've had both an EDPM (?) roof and a fiberglass roof, and in both cases I put up Eternabond. Check out my RV repair posts at my blog link below. And I'm convinced that it did a great job up there. But...leaks also come from the windows so I'm also using rubber RV gutters that are stuck on over the windows. Front and room windows. Then I'm using 4" vinyl tape covering the rubber window seals on the front window.

It's a never ending battle...but it's a slow motion battle.

fyrflie wrote:

RJL wrote:
Another stupid question. Can I safely walk on the roof and do this or do I need to drag a ladder around? I've been up there a few times and walked gingerly, I'm about 220 lbs if that matters.

I am 230 lbs and walk on my roof all the time when doing maintenance or projects.
2001 Fleetwood Flair

The sketchiest part is climbing the rear ladder.
Be careful of ac units, skylights, vents etc. when on the roof. Also be aware that some cleaners may make the surface slippery.

Good luck

Thank you

RJL wrote:
Another stupid question. Can I safely walk on the roof and do this or do I need to drag a ladder around? I've been up there a few times and walked gingerly, I'm about 220 lbs if that matters.

I am 230 lbs and walk on my roof all the time when doing maintenance or projects.
2001 Fleetwood Flair

The sketchiest part is climbing the rear ladder.
Be careful of ac units, skylights, vents etc. when on the roof. Also be aware that some cleaners may make the surface slippery.

Good luck

Another stupid question. Can I safely walk on the roof and do this or do I need to drag a ladder around? I've been up there a few times and walked gingerly, I'm about 220 lbs if that matters.

Rubber roofs .. Mine is 12 and other than the Kitchen Floor Treatment.. All I have done is INSPECTIONS and the odd damage repair.. (THat is not maintenance).

THe Kitchen floor treatment.. Mop (I use a car wash brush, the "Van" type with the long handle) Bucket, Garden hose with sprayer attachment.. Spic & Span.

Optional broom

Sweep off all loose debris, then starting as far from Ladder as possible.. Mop (Spic & Span, and water in bucket) and rinse (Hose with sprayer)

FInish from the ladder

Then wash and wax the sides.

Metal roof.. I can't say

Fiberglass. That's close to what I did with that trailer too.. Basically car wash it Just like I do the sides.

RV roof maintenance is a yearly chore minimum. Resealing is extremely important...seams to the whole thing. What type of roof does that Winnie have?

Great timing on this thread. I've just been wondering what I should do on my new-to-me 1988 Winnie Superchief to keep the roof watertight over the winter. Especially since neither DH nor I can climb up to do it ourselves, so we will need to find someone to do it for us.

gbopp wrote:
Consider applying Eternabond to the seams and along the roof edges in addition to inspecting/caulking on a regular basis.

This is exactly what I have done to my last two RV's and will be doing to our brand new 2017 Miramar.

At the very least I would recommend using ETERNABOND "tape" along the front and end cap/roof seal/connections.

I removed as much "self leveling caulk sealant" from those areas. cleaned and prepped it as per the ETERNABOND instructions (very easy to do) and applied the 4" tape across the width of the roof. I then do the skylight, vents, and any other "through roof fittings" that make sense. Once I put that down...I probably don't need to do anything other than inspect it for the next 8-10 years.

I am also considering a full on "sprayed roof"... its expensive BUT, there is nothing (short of a fire, etc) that will ruin an RV like a water leak through the roof.

I just wish OEMs would SERIOUSLY invest in better tech for their roofs... When you really look at how they are made its "old tech" IMO

Thank you all for the replies, advise. I'm ashamed to admit but this has been a forgotten part of maintenance on my part.