RV SWAY

[kingsransom]

I drive a 2013 gas 35 foot class A Fleetwood Bounder. I have only been on one 3 month trip. The RV seems to drift some when passed by large trucks. I can control it, but it gets tiring to drive. I am interested in options on the anti-sway bars or shock-stearing stabilization. What is the difference in how they work, does it help, is it worth it? Thanks for your feedback.

[RBabb]

Another vote for cheap handling fix (if possible) and polyurethane sway bar bushings while your at it. Also check tire pressure. Then drive it and determine if further work is needed, in my case it wasnt. (Old rig was f53)

[holstein13]

X4 or 5 by now. Cheap Handling Fix. Try it first along with alignment and correct tire pressure. If that doesn't work, then a rear track bar should do the trick.

I did all that on my 2011 Fleetwood Storm and was very satisfied.

[Rwake901]

time_to_go_now wrote:

Rwake901 wrote:
Installed a rear track bar and did the CHF on our last motorhome. Both helped some. We just picked up our new motorhome a few days ago. We had SumoSprings installed from the factory. I would HIGHLY recommend them. It drives and handles great.

Sumo is for the rear only, correct?

Front and rear both.

[Goldencrazy]

I think we often forget that when we buy a car we make many decisions on options so it is not surprising we do after market things where the options are not available. If I could have purchased air ride I would have spent the extra money. I noted Tiffin allowed for some spring decisions which is great.

time_to_go_now wrote:
I am planning a long trip this summer. First long trip in this motorhome. I started by getting the rig weighed and an alignment. Then use the corner weights to determine proper tire pressure. Then replaced factory shocks with Koni FSD. While there was some improvement, I wish I would have known about other options that would have custom made a set of shocks with custom valving for my rig.

Next step is rear track bar. I wanted to just buy it for $525, I really did!. But, when I saw how it was designed and how it was made, I decided to make my own. I have access to machine shops and water jet machines and welders. My total cost will be under $90. I am doing that now. Next I will BUY the front track bar. It is just $410 and would be far more complicated to make myself.

I have factory front and rear sway bars already. But, I can replace the front with a larger bar for $584. I can add a 2nd bar to the rear for $789. I guess I am hoping I don't end up needing to spend the money on the upgraded ANTI-sway bars.

As far as steering is concerned. I have heard good things about the Blue Ox Tru Center. But at $1,100, I am struggling with the cost. I have also heard good things about the Safe-T-Steer. At $489, that will likely be the direction I go with.

Seems odd that you can easily spend $4,000 on upgraded steering and handling devices. I guess someone has to keep this economy rolling. At least, that is what I tell my wife!

Good luck.

[time_to_go_now]

Rwake901 wrote:
Installed a rear track bar and did the CHF on our last motorhome. Both helped some. We just picked up our new motorhome a few days ago. We had SumoSprings installed from the factory. I would HIGHLY recommend them. It drives and handles great.

Sumo is for the rear only, correct?

[Rwake901]

Installed a rear track bar and did the CHF on our last motorhome. Both helped some. We just picked up our new motorhome a few days ago. We had SumoSprings installed from the factory. I would HIGHLY recommend them. It drives and handles great.

[time_to_go_now]

I have the FRED chassis. There is nothing CHEAP about that chassis! But, I went a read some of the 101 pages on the CHF. I really wish I had a Ford chassis, just so I could try it. I find it truly remarkable that such a small change in sway bar bracket geometry can make such a HUGE improvement. Makes me wonder what some people are putting in their coffee...

[phnguyk]

Brazzels rear track bar. Can not express what a huge improvement it made. 100% no push or pull from passing rigs.

[cjoseph]

X10 or whatever # we are up to on the Cheap Handling Fix.

If you have a day or two, go the link to the other forum where the "inventor" of the CHF first posted it. You can read page after page of stories just like mine.

Some got even nightmare rides to improve. Out of all those pages, there are maybe a few who got NO improvement and one who vehemently advises that no one should do it because their MH will self destruct (OK- excageration on my part but only ONE guy against it.)

Also, my tires were way over inflated from the dealer. I suspect manufacturers max the pressure on the chassis because it is sitting around for long periods. I'd rather buy a MH with max inflation than under inflation on the tires. You would think the dealer would make the air pressure adjustment for test drives?

Proper tire inflation and the CHF have left me not even thinking about touching it with anything else. Drives just great one handed although I keep two on the wheel for safety.

Before the CHF, I could reach for a drink while driving but I had to check my lanes and really concentrate. Now, that reach is a breeze. The MH tracks straight with ease. Passing trucks require NO extra effort.

Like already said, start with the CHF, its free or practically free if you pay to have it done or buy extended links.

[time_to_go_now]

I am planning a long trip this summer. First long trip in this motorhome. I started by getting the rig weighed and an alignment. Then use the corner weights to determine proper tire pressure. Then replaced factory shocks with Koni FSD. While there was some improvement, I wish I would have known about other options that would have custom made a set of shocks with custom valving for my rig.

Next step is rear track bar. I wanted to just buy it for $525, I really did!. But, when I saw how it was designed and how it was made, I decided to make my own. I have access to machine shops and water jet machines and welders. My total cost will be under $90. I am doing that now. Next I will BUY the front track bar. It is just $410 and would be far more complicated to make myself.

I have factory front and rear sway bars already. But, I can replace the front with a larger bar for $584. I can add a 2nd bar to the rear for $789. I guess I am hoping I don't end up needing to spend the money on the upgraded ANTI-sway bars.

As far as steering is concerned. I have heard good things about the Blue Ox Tru Center. But at $1,100, I am struggling with the cost. I have also heard good things about the Safe-T-Steer. At $489, that will likely be the direction I go with.

Seems odd that you can easily spend $4,000 on upgraded steering and handling devices. I guess someone has to keep this economy rolling. At least, that is what I tell my wife!

Good luck.

[JimM68]

For the guy who's brother had a problem with passing trucks in a tour bus, I dunno....

Our 8 bag monaco is solid as a rock. Couple days ago, I had to fight a 40mph crosswind, and it sucked, but it sucked for the trucks just as bad. And I still arrived at my destination relaxed and ready for more.

Our first, a 1999 pace arrow on a v10 f53, it just wore me out. Between the noise, the leaning, and the tail wagging, after 300 miles I was just shot.
I've been told the newer ones were better, but lack this experience.

Anyway...
if your F53 doesn't have a rear track bar, it should. My understanding is they did become standard at some point, so crawl under there and look.
The rear track bar should go a long way to solving the "tail wagging the dog" syndrome.

The "cheap handling fix", if applicable, will give you the best possible results from the factoryu installed equipment, check and do it now, if applicable.

[PastorCharlie]

CHF= move the sway bar links to back holes of sway bar in the front and rear sway bars.

Adjust proper tire air pressures.

Problem solved.

Cost nothing.


CHF

[Goldencrazy]

I am curious about how the firestone air bags impact your ride and handling. Could you elaborate?

WyoTraveler wrote:
I installed Roadmaster anti sway bar front and rear, Blue Ox rear track bar, modified factory rear anti sway (called CHF), Steersafe on steering (several brands on the market), Firestone Riderite air bags rear. Works for me. BTW my MH is 34' 22K chassis.

[wa8yxm]

Sway is the side to side rocking of the motor home,, Like fans at a music concert holding up their BIC's and swaying side to side.

SWAY bars are installed but on many motor homes an UPGRAD is .. Recommended

Wag is more like a dog's tail,, as the dog wags his tail side to side his feet (The tires) remain firmly straight, but the body may wag opposite the tail.

On a motor home, with leaf spring and solid axles, the body can move slightly side to side,, Usually the front moves one way while the back moves the other, then they swap, so you THINK you are going down the road like this /\/\/\/\
When in fact its like this -------

You tend to compensate, which makes your path more like the zig zag, and also makes it worse, and tires you out

TRACK BARS, also called Pan Hard bars, stop this dead, 100%, Eliminate it completly..


Finally steering stablizers, these devices do their best to keep you going straight,, Blue Ox Tru-center has a feature where you can re-center it from the driver's seat if its a bit off or if you have a strong and steady cross wind or a high domed road.

I believe it is Safe-T-Steer that has that as an option.. I recommend either the Blue Ox or the one with the option, with the option.

Hope this helps.