My water pressure at my winter park is low 40 PSI and does not supply enough supply to my kitchen sink or bathroom sinks.I have talked to others about their water flow and many don't use the parks supply. Their RV's always use the water pump for pressure.My RV has a valve where I can select to fill my fresh tank or use park pressure.I wondered if I can change it up so that the fresh tank would fill and not overlfow and then use my water pump to get the proper pressure as the other RV's do ?Anyone done this type of conversion ?If yes how ?

You would just have to manually fill your tank and turn on the pump. If you leave the city water connected it will help with pressure with the pump on. You would need some kind of float switch in the tank to have it fill automatically and I think that would be more work than it is worth.

Perhaps I'm not understanding what you want to accomplish but yes, you can fill your water tank and just use the water pump to draw your water needs. This is done all the time why staying at dry campgrounds or boondocking. No need to do anything special. A tank of water will last a long time, especially if you conserve and don't let the water run needlessly.It doesn't take a lot of effort to fill the tank. :)

You fill your fresh water tank and then use the pump.Then as needed you add more water to fresh water tankIf you leave CG water supply hooked up and set to fill your fresh water tank WILL overflow....there is no float/shutoff in/at tank.YOU are the control....manual

I don't know of any automatic fill system for your fresh water tank. You will have to do what the rest of us do in that situation. Manually turn the valve to fill your tank and then shut if off when the tank is full.I suppose you could add a soleniod valve to the inlet and rig a couple of sensors on the side of the fresh tank that would sense when the tank is full as well as when it needs to be filled. This would be more trouble than it's worth for me.

horizon36 wrote:I don't know of any automatic fill system for your fresh water tank. You will have to do what the rest of us do in that situation. Manually turn the valve to fill your tank and then shut if off when the tank is full.I suppose you could add a soleniod valve to the inlet and rig a couple of sensors on the side of the fresh tank that would sense when the tank is full as well as when it needs to be filled. This would be more trouble than it's worth for me.Especially if one of those sensors didn't sense correctly and the water kept flowing and flowing and flowing.

Setting up RV to use water pump instead of Park Supply

W5CI
Explorer
Feb 15, 2016
I agree 40 lbs psi is more than enough for your rv
I_rv
Explorer
Feb 15, 2016
see what pressure is at faucet,if less than 50 don't use regulator,40 is normal check all the strainers at each sink and strainer in end of hose.you might be suprised at what you find.
tropical36
Explorer
Feb 14, 2016
JCat wrote:
My water pressure at my winter park is low 40 PSI and does not supply enough supply to my kitchen sink or bathroom sinks.

I have talked to others about their water flow and many don't use the parks supply. Their RV's always use the water pump for pressure.

My RV has a valve where I can select to fill my fresh tank or use park pressure.

I wondered if I can change it up so that the fresh tank would fill and not overlfow and then use my water pump to get the proper pressure as the other RV's do ?

Anyone done this type of conversion ?
If yes how ?

These problems usually disappear with removing any built in pressure restricter and using only a whole house pressure regulator for shore water.
No way, I'm running my pump, while in a park.
tazman1953
Explorer
Feb 14, 2016
First are you using a water regulator? Do you have an elbow coming out of your water fill inlet, I had an elbow and you cannot use the elbow with a regulator it greatly reduces the pressure, if the PSI is only 40% I would not use any regulator.
All the Best
Tazman
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Feb 14, 2016
Checking water pressure at the hookup is like checking battery voltage.
It says basically nothing till you put a load on it.
Make a tee at the hookup for pressure gauge, open tub valve in RV and then see what is the working pressure.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Feb 14, 2016
JCat wrote:
40 to 45 may not be low, but is does affect the water flow out of my faucets.

Pressure and flow are related but are two different things.
Check the pressure in the lines when your onboard pump runs and I think you will be amazed at how low it IS.

I said this before; one more time:
Low flow when the input pressure is 40 PSI could be caused by:
A plugged screen at the inlet.
A plugged or defective check valve.
A failed pressure regulator.
A pinched or otherwise restricted hose near the above pieces.
Once you get farther in than that, the components would be common for outside water or internal pump.
JCat
Explorer III
Feb 12, 2016
40 to 45 may not be low, but is does affect the water flow out of my faucets.

I get improved water flow when using the water pump.

If there was an issue with the plumbing I would think it would be there for the pump and the park supply.

If you know of something that could be affecting the flow, let me know I will check it out.
bluwtr49
Explorer II
Feb 10, 2016
I've read 4 pages and still fail to see the issue. Granted the park my have 40-50 psig but that's not considered low. So you leave you water pump on and refill the tank as necessary. Somehow this whole thing is been sounding like a whole lot of something about nothing.

Sorry but it so simple...turn a valve every couple of days or so.
Pogoil
Explorer
Feb 10, 2016
Yep.

Pogoil.
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Feb 10, 2016
JCat wrote:

I called the water company and they said they have not reduced the water pressure. Some how I just don't think they are telling the truth.

And somehow I think you are not listening.

40 PSI IS NOT LOW. Most onboard pumps don't produce that much.