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Slip slidin’ away

Coelacanth
Explorer
Explorer
I had an issue last week where the DC quit and the slides couldn’t retract. No idea why. Fiddled a bit and lo and behold everything came back online.
So, my Itasca was hydraulic. This runs off DC motors. The generic manual says the motors are above the slides. And, in every video I’ve looked at the motors just sit atop the slide, wide open. But, these motors are behind fascia. And, the ever so useless manual says the fascia is retained by clips or Velcro.
We, I’ve tried my best to remove said fascia to no avail. They seem to be held on really well by whatever method they used. Or, I’m doing something wrong?
They said that if the slides quit they can be retracted with a common electric drill. I’d like to have this option ready, just in case.
But, first I need to get to the motors!
Any thoughts? Anybody have a similar setup? This is a 2012 Holiday Rambler, Augusta on a Ford E450 chassis.
6 REPLIES 6

Coelacanth
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, I’m an idiot. Sorry.
Of the procedures shown in the video a couple are similar.
The fascia that covers the motor(s) seems to have a 4” wide center piece that runs the width of the slide. The piece over the bed was loose at one end, so I pulled it forward to see behind. It seemed to have been stapled to framing behind it. It didn’t come away easily so I put it back in place. The manual (that basically covers every rig HR ever made) says the fascia should be held by Velcro or clips. Sure didn’t look that way, so I got nervous. HR doesn’t exist any more, so I was afraid of breaking something I might not be able to replace?
I better get you a picture of what I’m looking at.

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
Coelacanth wrote:
bobndot wrote:
this link might offer something

The elec drill method or crank in method can only be used for a motor fail. If a slide gets knocked out of alignment and binds then it takes a lot of muscle to free it and push it back in. Another reason to keep slides small. If you are a boondocker without others to help, that could be a problem.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27412


I agree. But, first I need to find the motor.


I thought it was hidden by the fascia ? The link shows you ways to remove it which you were having trouble doing. Were you able to remove the fascia to get at the motor ?

If you do not know which brand slide you have. There are videos of various brands of slides. You might be able to ID yours by the hardware on the outside of the slide. Match it up to one of the videos on YouTube to ID it .

start by viewing "Replacing A Schwintek Slideout Motor" on youtube

Coelacanth
Explorer
Explorer
bobndot wrote:
this link might offer something

The elec drill method or crank in method can only be used for a motor fail. If a slide gets knocked out of alignment and binds then it takes a lot of muscle to free it and push it back in. Another reason to keep slides small. If you are a boondocker without others to help, that could be a problem.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27412


I agree. But, first I need to find the motor.

Coelacanth
Explorer
Explorer
Dusty R wrote:
On our Itasca, you have to set the parking brake for the slide to work.


Interesting! I’ll look at that.

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
On our Itasca, you have to set the parking brake for the slide to work.

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
this link might offer something

The elec drill method or crank in method can only be used for a motor fail. If a slide gets knocked out of alignment and binds then it takes a lot of muscle to free it and push it back in. Another reason to keep slides small. If you are a boondocker without others to help, that could be a problem.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27412