Hello Everybody,
First post.
I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change.
Here it is.
Bought it Wednesday.
Drove it home today.
1999 Ford E-250, 6 cylinder, 125K miles.
Was a home builders work van. Some slight surface rust.
Cargo doors a bit dinged up.
I'm planning on doing a full conversion. Most of the work I'll do myself but some will be beyond my abilities. I'm giving myself a deadline of no later than spring. Van won't fit into my small garage so that will affect how/when I can work on it.
I've been reading this and other conversion forums for a few weeks. It's been a huge help so far. Learned quite a lot already but there's still a lot I don't know. Counting on the pros who frequent this forum for some advice.
Advice like: The previous owner drilled some 3/4 inch holes in the floor for bolted down shelving. Whats the best way to cover these holes from underneath? Should I treat the metal edges of the holes before I start?
Thanks for your time, now and in the future.
WVvan
P.S. I'm thinking of call it "HAL the Van".
Why HAL? Well since my name is Dave....
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
First post.
I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change.
Here it is.
Bought it Wednesday.
Drove it home today.
1999 Ford E-250, 6 cylinder, 125K miles.
Was a home builders work van. Some slight surface rust.
Cargo doors a bit dinged up.
I'm planning on doing a full conversion. Most of the work I'll do myself but some will be beyond my abilities. I'm giving myself a deadline of no later than spring. Van won't fit into my small garage so that will affect how/when I can work on it.
I've been reading this and other conversion forums for a few weeks. It's been a huge help so far. Learned quite a lot already but there's still a lot I don't know. Counting on the pros who frequent this forum for some advice.
Advice like: The previous owner drilled some 3/4 inch holes in the floor for bolted down shelving. Whats the best way to cover these holes from underneath? Should I treat the metal edges of the holes before I start?
Thanks for your time, now and in the future.
WVvan
P.S. I'm thinking of call it "HAL the Van".
Why HAL? Well since my name is Dave....
Dave Bowman: Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
HAL: I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.
A short posting about templates.
Whenever I need to cut anything to fit I make a template. Others may be able to just eyeball it and cut but I'm not one of them. If it's something simple for the floor I usually just tape together newspapers so they are the same size as whatever I'll be cutting.
Then just lay down the newspaper template and cut it to fit.
Then use the template to transfer your cuts or marks to the whatever you'll be installing. Then cut the part to fit.
While the newspaper template works for flat level surfaces it's not to good for vertical surfaces since it won't hold it's shape. I've tried using cardboard, never in short supply if you have a recycling center nearby, but it's hard to for me make a smooth cut.
I've think I've found the perfect template material.
Posterboard.
Office Depot - $4.99 - 10 sheets
It hold it's shape on the vertical and if you're marking off a corner it will fit in it nicely.
Then mark off the edge with a good lumber pencil. It will both mark and score the posterboard.
Another advantage of the posterboard is that you can tape it directly to whatever you're cutting. Then instead of transferring any marks just cut through the posterboard.
I usually find ways to re-use the same piece of posterboard several times as it gets smaller and smaller.
This message has been brought to you by your friends at the Posterboard Council
Posterboard. It's plain, white and boring. Buy some today!
Whenever I need to cut anything to fit I make a template. Others may be able to just eyeball it and cut but I'm not one of them. If it's something simple for the floor I usually just tape together newspapers so they are the same size as whatever I'll be cutting.
Then just lay down the newspaper template and cut it to fit.
Then use the template to transfer your cuts or marks to the whatever you'll be installing. Then cut the part to fit.
While the newspaper template works for flat level surfaces it's not to good for vertical surfaces since it won't hold it's shape. I've tried using cardboard, never in short supply if you have a recycling center nearby, but it's hard to for me make a smooth cut.
I've think I've found the perfect template material.
Posterboard.
Office Depot - $4.99 - 10 sheets
It hold it's shape on the vertical and if you're marking off a corner it will fit in it nicely.
Then mark off the edge with a good lumber pencil. It will both mark and score the posterboard.
Another advantage of the posterboard is that you can tape it directly to whatever you're cutting. Then instead of transferring any marks just cut through the posterboard.
I usually find ways to re-use the same piece of posterboard several times as it gets smaller and smaller.
This message has been brought to you by your friends at the Posterboard Council
Posterboard. It's plain, white and boring. Buy some today!
We interrupt this thread for a quick message.
I post this just in case anyone thought the only pictures I ever take is of my work on the van.;)
Please excuse me while I crow a little.
While working on the van today the letter carrier brought me the following CD.
The CD cover photo is one of mine. My first paid work. I'm as giddy as a schoolgirl.
You can see the original photo here.
Here's a photo comparison I made that shows what the same spot looked like around a 100 years ago. Click to enlarge.
Biking, hiking and taking pictures are my main plans for when the van conversion is finished.
We now return to our camper van build, already in progress.:)
I post this just in case anyone thought the only pictures I ever take is of my work on the van.;)
Please excuse me while I crow a little.
While working on the van today the letter carrier brought me the following CD.
The CD cover photo is one of mine. My first paid work. I'm as giddy as a schoolgirl.
You can see the original photo here.
Here's a photo comparison I made that shows what the same spot looked like around a 100 years ago. Click to enlarge.
Biking, hiking and taking pictures are my main plans for when the van conversion is finished.
We now return to our camper van build, already in progress.:)
Next up. Some more insulation.
I'd considered using something like furring strips and pink fiberglass but the Ford van's walls are too irregular and that method won't work everywhere. Next up is extruded foam insulation. I couldn't attach the foam directly to the walls so instead I'll attach it to what will be the interior panels.
Supplies:
Lowes:
Hardboard 3/16โx4'x8' - $11.21 each
Extruded Insulation 1/2โ x 4' x 8' โ $10.48
Woodweld Contact cement - quart - $13.98
The wall panels are a type of pressed fiberboard. They are not as strong as plywood but since I'm not using them in a structural capacity I'll save on weight. They will be covered in fabric when done.
I decide to start on the passenger side, aft of the cargo doors. One reason I'm working from here is because I'm not sure how I'll frame the window behind the driver. As I work my way around the van hopefully it will come to me.
First Mistake. Instead of a template I thought I could use a marker and reach behind the panel and draw out the where it needed cut. It worked but just barely.
Mistake Two
Double sided tape isn't strong enough to hold the foam to the panel once you start to flex it.
Mistake Three
Don't use 3/4" extruded foam with the panels. The two of them combined makes the panels so springy you'll have to use your feet to bend them into place.
(Picture taken while lying on my back trying to get the panel to curve against the wall.)
I'll attach the foam to the panels using contact cement.
Before attaching the foam remove the plastic film that covers the side you will be gluing.
Apply cement liberally.
Position foam on the board then place everything handy on top of the foam to weigh it down while the cement cures. I let it set overnight
By this time in the build I have a fair collection of foam bits left over.
Combing several of the smaller pieces to cover a larger panel is a good way to use them up.
I'd considered using something like furring strips and pink fiberglass but the Ford van's walls are too irregular and that method won't work everywhere. Next up is extruded foam insulation. I couldn't attach the foam directly to the walls so instead I'll attach it to what will be the interior panels.
Supplies:
Lowes:
Hardboard 3/16โx4'x8' - $11.21 each
Extruded Insulation 1/2โ x 4' x 8' โ $10.48
Woodweld Contact cement - quart - $13.98
The wall panels are a type of pressed fiberboard. They are not as strong as plywood but since I'm not using them in a structural capacity I'll save on weight. They will be covered in fabric when done.
I decide to start on the passenger side, aft of the cargo doors. One reason I'm working from here is because I'm not sure how I'll frame the window behind the driver. As I work my way around the van hopefully it will come to me.
First Mistake. Instead of a template I thought I could use a marker and reach behind the panel and draw out the where it needed cut. It worked but just barely.
Mistake Two
Double sided tape isn't strong enough to hold the foam to the panel once you start to flex it.
Mistake Three
Don't use 3/4" extruded foam with the panels. The two of them combined makes the panels so springy you'll have to use your feet to bend them into place.
(Picture taken while lying on my back trying to get the panel to curve against the wall.)
I'll attach the foam to the panels using contact cement.
Before attaching the foam remove the plastic film that covers the side you will be gluing.
Apply cement liberally.
Position foam on the board then place everything handy on top of the foam to weigh it down while the cement cures. I let it set overnight
By this time in the build I have a fair collection of foam bits left over.
Combing several of the smaller pieces to cover a larger panel is a good way to use them up.
Continued work on the insulation.
Since the rigid foam didn't work on the cockpit floor I used the Reflectix/EZ Cool.
Not sure which of them is the best for being on the floor. You can see the main difference between Reflectix and EZ Cool here. They both consist of what looks like bubble wrap with aluminium foil on both sides. The EZ Cool (top in photo) has smaller air bubbles than Reflectix which why it molds better.
No sure which will with stand up to foot traffic better but I went with the EZ Cool. Maybe pull it up in a year and see what kind of shape it's in.
Having to work without the engine cowling (AKA doghouse) made for a very nippy work environment even with the kerosene heater running.
Finished look.
I hadn't originally planned on insulating the step wells but all the cold air emanating from them couldn't be ignored.
Before:
After:
Same with the cargo step.
Had to buy another roll of Reflectix (2' x 25' - $28.93 - Lowe's) to finish the job.
Since the rigid foam didn't work on the cockpit floor I used the Reflectix/EZ Cool.
Not sure which of them is the best for being on the floor. You can see the main difference between Reflectix and EZ Cool here. They both consist of what looks like bubble wrap with aluminium foil on both sides. The EZ Cool (top in photo) has smaller air bubbles than Reflectix which why it molds better.
No sure which will with stand up to foot traffic better but I went with the EZ Cool. Maybe pull it up in a year and see what kind of shape it's in.
Having to work without the engine cowling (AKA doghouse) made for a very nippy work environment even with the kerosene heater running.
Finished look.
I hadn't originally planned on insulating the step wells but all the cold air emanating from them couldn't be ignored.
Before:
After:
Same with the cargo step.
Had to buy another roll of Reflectix (2' x 25' - $28.93 - Lowe's) to finish the job.
Thanks for the kind words.
It's a welcome change to what I usually hear from "Tiger" the project foreman.
He NEVER has anything nice to say.
It's a welcome change to what I usually hear from "Tiger" the project foreman.
He NEVER has anything nice to say.
Installation of the first layer of insulation in the van's cargo section.
Van encrusted with snow and ice?
Check.
Inside temperature 24 degrees?
Check. (58 is the humidity)
Lets get to work.
Supplies:
Reflectix foil bubble insulation 2' x 25' - $28.93 - Lowe's
EZ Cool Insulation - 4' x 10' - $40 including shipping - 2 rolls - online
ShurTape dual sided carpet tape 1-1/2โ x 75' - $4.98 - Lowe's
Duct tape and some pink fiberglass insulation - on hand
The upside down Tidy Cat bucket makes a nice stool.
The EZ Cool and Reflectix are similar products. The EZ Cool was easier to work with but at nearly twice the cost I'm not sure it was worth it.
Add a kerosene heater to make it habitable
Don't worry, I'm not crazy. I've got the doors open with the "Airlock".
Along the inside roof line is a trim strip from the Penthouse Top install. The strip is held on by a series of screws. I used the strip to attach the top edge of the foil bubble insulation to the van wall.
Dry fit the insulation to get it to mold to the van contours. Once it's a good fit move it away from the wall and start applying pieces of the two sided tape. The tape has blue backing you peel off.
Push the foil against the tape. Work down the wall.
Add the next panel.
Use duct tape for seams and around the wheel well.
Above the wheel wells are some large gaps between the inner and outer wall.
These gaps I filled with pink fiberglass insulation. Don't pack it in too tight. It's the air spaces that provide the insulation.
Continue until finished.
The foil on the back doors is temporary. The doors will have rigid foam when done.
One advantage to doing this job in this weather is you really feel the difference the foil makes. The bare metal walls seem to just radiate cold. You can find any places you missed by just moving your hand around.
Van encrusted with snow and ice?
Check.
Inside temperature 24 degrees?
Check. (58 is the humidity)
Lets get to work.
Supplies:
Reflectix foil bubble insulation 2' x 25' - $28.93 - Lowe's
EZ Cool Insulation - 4' x 10' - $40 including shipping - 2 rolls - online
ShurTape dual sided carpet tape 1-1/2โ x 75' - $4.98 - Lowe's
Duct tape and some pink fiberglass insulation - on hand
The upside down Tidy Cat bucket makes a nice stool.
The EZ Cool and Reflectix are similar products. The EZ Cool was easier to work with but at nearly twice the cost I'm not sure it was worth it.
Add a kerosene heater to make it habitable
Don't worry, I'm not crazy. I've got the doors open with the "Airlock".
Along the inside roof line is a trim strip from the Penthouse Top install. The strip is held on by a series of screws. I used the strip to attach the top edge of the foil bubble insulation to the van wall.
Dry fit the insulation to get it to mold to the van contours. Once it's a good fit move it away from the wall and start applying pieces of the two sided tape. The tape has blue backing you peel off.
Push the foil against the tape. Work down the wall.
Add the next panel.
Use duct tape for seams and around the wheel well.
Above the wheel wells are some large gaps between the inner and outer wall.
These gaps I filled with pink fiberglass insulation. Don't pack it in too tight. It's the air spaces that provide the insulation.
Continue until finished.
The foil on the back doors is temporary. The doors will have rigid foam when done.
One advantage to doing this job in this weather is you really feel the difference the foil makes. The bare metal walls seem to just radiate cold. You can find any places you missed by just moving your hand around.
Work done before Winter.
Rear bumper upgrade and Front bumper repair.
My van originally came with a regular rear bumper. I wanted to upgrade to a step bumper. Had to check around but finally found one for $100 at a junkyard.
Obviously a junkyard near Pittsburgh.
Before painting you need to remove the two plastic step covers. There are a plastic clips that slip through the bumper. You need to squeeze both sides of the clips to get them to slide back up through the bumper.
Grind off all of the old rust and bumper sticker.
Brush on a rust converter.
I used spray can primer. For paint I used NAPA Intermix MS Pint 56A (black)- $7.75.
Covered the paint with NAPA clearcoat. On the plastic parts I used black Krylon Fusion spray paint.
While the bumper was off I painted the tail end of the van.
Reinstalled the rear bumper. I didn't take a picture at the time but you can see how nice it looks today.
Or maybe not. We're in the middle of a blizzard at the moment. I'll post another picture in the spring.
Front Bumper.
Since the back bumper is now black the front has to match. There is a noticeable dent in the front bumper that was there when I bought it.
To pound it out I read that some advise using a wood block and a hammer. I tried for a while and it didn't seem to improve much so I started using the round end of a ball-peen. Don't bang real hard, just tap tap tap tap tap.
After about an hour and a half the dent was much improved. Probably could have used a few more minutes but by then I was bored out of my skull.
Before re-installing I needed to take care of the rust on the bumper mounts. I used a product called Rust Bullet.
Before and After.
Used the same paint and clearcoat that I used on rear bumper. Not to shabby.
Rear bumper upgrade and Front bumper repair.
My van originally came with a regular rear bumper. I wanted to upgrade to a step bumper. Had to check around but finally found one for $100 at a junkyard.
Obviously a junkyard near Pittsburgh.
Before painting you need to remove the two plastic step covers. There are a plastic clips that slip through the bumper. You need to squeeze both sides of the clips to get them to slide back up through the bumper.
Grind off all of the old rust and bumper sticker.
Brush on a rust converter.
I used spray can primer. For paint I used NAPA Intermix MS Pint 56A (black)- $7.75.
Covered the paint with NAPA clearcoat. On the plastic parts I used black Krylon Fusion spray paint.
While the bumper was off I painted the tail end of the van.
Reinstalled the rear bumper. I didn't take a picture at the time but you can see how nice it looks today.
Or maybe not. We're in the middle of a blizzard at the moment. I'll post another picture in the spring.
Front Bumper.
Since the back bumper is now black the front has to match. There is a noticeable dent in the front bumper that was there when I bought it.
To pound it out I read that some advise using a wood block and a hammer. I tried for a while and it didn't seem to improve much so I started using the round end of a ball-peen. Don't bang real hard, just tap tap tap tap tap.
After about an hour and a half the dent was much improved. Probably could have used a few more minutes but by then I was bored out of my skull.
Before re-installing I needed to take care of the rust on the bumper mounts. I used a product called Rust Bullet.
Before and After.
Used the same paint and clearcoat that I used on rear bumper. Not to shabby.
I quickly found out that my 2wd Ford E-250 had a open differential. I don't plan to go off-road but I do plan to go off-pavement so I upgraded to a Limited Slip Differential.
This is not a how-to since I had a local shop do it but I thought others might find the info useful. The parts used here apply to my van. The rear axles are by no means universal. This is all new to me so take everything here with a block of salt.
First step was to remove the current differential to get part numbers.
Van de-differentialed:
You're looking at the pinion gear.
Here is a view of the old differential with various numbers visible on the ring gear.
12 07 98 DANA D 47664 P4L578 45 11
It is a Dana 60 unit.
The last two number "45" & "11" represent the number of teeth on the ring gear and the teeth on the pinion.
45 / 11 = 4.090909
That equates to a "4.09" gear ratio
Here is the old unit next to the new unit. Inside the top of the new unit is a set of plates that act like a clutch to transmit torque to both axles if one axle starts to spin too much in relation to the other axle.
A couple close ups of the new unit.
You can just see the words "Trac-Lok" on the top of the new unit. That's a trademark for Dana. This is a OEM unit.
This is how it looked installed.
There were two problems with my install. The first new unit that was shipped had the wrong splines. The splines on the van's axle shafts are 35 which is the number of grooves or ridges. The new differential came with 32's. A bigger number means a bigger axle which is more heavy duty. Had to wait for a replacement differential.
Second problem was the cover. Mine was so rusted the threads came out when they removed the fill plug. Had to order a new one from the local Ford dealer.
Close up:
Final Bill (less tax):
Dana 60 Posi Unit - $445
Carrier Bearings - $60
Bearing Races - $30
Labor 6.5 hrs at $55/hr - $357.50
Valvoline Posi Gear Oil - $20
Rear Cover Assy. - $65
Total - $977.50
Here is a Dana diagram and a parts list. (click pics to enlarge)
This is not a how-to since I had a local shop do it but I thought others might find the info useful. The parts used here apply to my van. The rear axles are by no means universal. This is all new to me so take everything here with a block of salt.
First step was to remove the current differential to get part numbers.
Van de-differentialed:
You're looking at the pinion gear.
Here is a view of the old differential with various numbers visible on the ring gear.
12 07 98 DANA D 47664 P4L578 45 11
It is a Dana 60 unit.
The last two number "45" & "11" represent the number of teeth on the ring gear and the teeth on the pinion.
45 / 11 = 4.090909
That equates to a "4.09" gear ratio
Here is the old unit next to the new unit. Inside the top of the new unit is a set of plates that act like a clutch to transmit torque to both axles if one axle starts to spin too much in relation to the other axle.
A couple close ups of the new unit.
You can just see the words "Trac-Lok" on the top of the new unit. That's a trademark for Dana. This is a OEM unit.
This is how it looked installed.
There were two problems with my install. The first new unit that was shipped had the wrong splines. The splines on the van's axle shafts are 35 which is the number of grooves or ridges. The new differential came with 32's. A bigger number means a bigger axle which is more heavy duty. Had to wait for a replacement differential.
Second problem was the cover. Mine was so rusted the threads came out when they removed the fill plug. Had to order a new one from the local Ford dealer.
Close up:
Final Bill (less tax):
Dana 60 Posi Unit - $445
Carrier Bearings - $60
Bearing Races - $30
Labor 6.5 hrs at $55/hr - $357.50
Valvoline Posi Gear Oil - $20
Rear Cover Assy. - $65
Total - $977.50
Here is a Dana diagram and a parts list. (click pics to enlarge)
Here's a little HowTo for Mud Flaps.
This applies to 2wd.
The install instructions say to park on level surface and measure the guards from the ground up. Unfortunately here in WV it's a bit hilly so I had to come up with my own instructions.
Pro-Fit Truck Splash Guards - Model #6
I had no prior experience with this brand but the web site listed them as fitting Ford vans and at only around $25 a pair I thought I'd chance it.
Pro-Fit company web page
Comes with two guards and 8 screws.
Park the van so that it's level inside.
Since the front wheel is so close to the mounted mud guard you have to turn the wheel as far as it will go and remove the hub cap to get enough room to work.
Rear wheels are OK as is.
Before you can put in the first screw you have to position the mud guard. There are three different adjustments that need to be done.
1. The guards have a lip that fits against the corner of the wheel well.
The plastic is stiff so you have to push in hard so it fits tight against the van.
Below the bottom edge of the lip is accordeon like folds. Don't confuse them with what I consider the bottom edge of the lip.
2. While holding the guard tight against the van slide it up and down until the bottom of the lip is even with the bottom of the rear quarter panel. You can feel when it's lined up. the reason you'll be relying on your sense of touch to line up the bottom is because at the same time you're trying to get the next adjustment right.
3. You''ll want the guard to be perpendicular to the body of the van. With the front wheel wells you'll just have to make a good guess since the tire is at an angle. With the rear guards you can use the tire as a guide. Parallel to the tire = perpendicular to the body.
Not parallel:
Parallel:
When the you have the guard tight against the van the ridged plastic of the lip will act like a spring and make the guard difficult to hold in one place. It keeps wanting to slip around so once you have all the adjustments just right mark it with a pencil line.
With the guard in position use a 1/8" drill bit to make a top hole through both the guard and the metal of the wheel well then use a 5/16" bit to enlarge the hole in just the plastic guard.
Screw in just the top screw but don't tighten it all the way.
With the top screw acting as a pivot point hold a small level against the guard's bottom edge. Rotate back and forth until level.
(The level's level but the camera isn't.)
Holding the guard level drill a second hole then set the second screw. This will hold the guard in place while you finish with the last two screws. With the rear tire you'll need a socket set with a phillips bit since it's such a tight fit. With the wheel in the way you'll have to drill the bottom holes at an angle but with care you can insert the screws and then tighten them down so the head is flat.
All done in the back.
And front.
This applies to 2wd.
The install instructions say to park on level surface and measure the guards from the ground up. Unfortunately here in WV it's a bit hilly so I had to come up with my own instructions.
Pro-Fit Truck Splash Guards - Model #6
I had no prior experience with this brand but the web site listed them as fitting Ford vans and at only around $25 a pair I thought I'd chance it.
Pro-Fit company web page
Comes with two guards and 8 screws.
Park the van so that it's level inside.
Since the front wheel is so close to the mounted mud guard you have to turn the wheel as far as it will go and remove the hub cap to get enough room to work.
Rear wheels are OK as is.
Before you can put in the first screw you have to position the mud guard. There are three different adjustments that need to be done.
1. The guards have a lip that fits against the corner of the wheel well.
The plastic is stiff so you have to push in hard so it fits tight against the van.
Below the bottom edge of the lip is accordeon like folds. Don't confuse them with what I consider the bottom edge of the lip.
2. While holding the guard tight against the van slide it up and down until the bottom of the lip is even with the bottom of the rear quarter panel. You can feel when it's lined up. the reason you'll be relying on your sense of touch to line up the bottom is because at the same time you're trying to get the next adjustment right.
3. You''ll want the guard to be perpendicular to the body of the van. With the front wheel wells you'll just have to make a good guess since the tire is at an angle. With the rear guards you can use the tire as a guide. Parallel to the tire = perpendicular to the body.
Not parallel:
Parallel:
When the you have the guard tight against the van the ridged plastic of the lip will act like a spring and make the guard difficult to hold in one place. It keeps wanting to slip around so once you have all the adjustments just right mark it with a pencil line.
With the guard in position use a 1/8" drill bit to make a top hole through both the guard and the metal of the wheel well then use a 5/16" bit to enlarge the hole in just the plastic guard.
Screw in just the top screw but don't tighten it all the way.
With the top screw acting as a pivot point hold a small level against the guard's bottom edge. Rotate back and forth until level.
(The level's level but the camera isn't.)
Holding the guard level drill a second hole then set the second screw. This will hold the guard in place while you finish with the last two screws. With the rear tire you'll need a socket set with a phillips bit since it's such a tight fit. With the wheel in the way you'll have to drill the bottom holes at an angle but with care you can insert the screws and then tighten them down so the head is flat.
All done in the back.
And front.
Painting the van. Back before it got cold:
The only equipment I had to buy was a paint sprayer and air valve at Lowe's. The small compressor I borrowed and I already had a good respirator and set of goggles. That was it for equipment.
The paint and clearcoat I got from NAPA:
Intermix MS Quart 56A Oxford White - $32.69
Reducer MS Quart CR232 - $13.49
Overall Clearcoat MS Quart FC720 - $23.49
Medium hardener MS 8-0z FH612 - $10.99
I used (2) of each.
Most of the rattle cans are sandable primer, 13 of them from Advanced Auto - $5.95 ea.
The acetone is for clean up and next time I'll buy it by the gallon.
Some 400 and 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a boatload of newspapers and wide masking tape.
I bought this van used and the inside was pretty scratched up so I ended up painting most of the interior. Once I got that and the rust taken care of I was running out of good weather. On the exterior I just did the drip edge and the bottom section that has the chip guard.
As you can see from the one picture I'm working into the night to get it done while the weather holds.
Lessons Learned: If you're painting outside, don't work into the night. You be picking the bugs out later. Another tip, A single edged razor blade is really good at getting overspray off your windshield.
If you're careful the results are surprising good. Not just my own opinion. When working on the street other people will be sure to give you their observations.
Lessons Learned: When working on the street with respirator and goggles expect plenty of strange looks from those passing by.
The paint sprayer I use is the "Kobalt Small Gravity Feed Spray Gun - $37.96" from Lowe's.
This type holds the paint in a small container on top of the gun. The main advantage is since it's a gravity feed there is less parts to clean vs the type where the paint is held underneath the gun. Disadvantage is that it doesn't hold a lot of paint but if you run out it's easy to refill.
I also bought a "Air Adjusting Valve - $14.96" that attaches between the gun and the air hose so you can adjust the pressure right at the gun (important).
I had the advantage of practicing on the inside parts of the van which will be covered over when the conversion is complete. It doesn't take that long to get the hang of the painting. Learning how to properly adjust the gun I found to be harder. A big piece of cardboard is handy/nessasary for dialing in the gun.
The only equipment I had to buy was a paint sprayer and air valve at Lowe's. The small compressor I borrowed and I already had a good respirator and set of goggles. That was it for equipment.
The paint and clearcoat I got from NAPA:
Intermix MS Quart 56A Oxford White - $32.69
Reducer MS Quart CR232 - $13.49
Overall Clearcoat MS Quart FC720 - $23.49
Medium hardener MS 8-0z FH612 - $10.99
I used (2) of each.
Most of the rattle cans are sandable primer, 13 of them from Advanced Auto - $5.95 ea.
The acetone is for clean up and next time I'll buy it by the gallon.
Some 400 and 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a boatload of newspapers and wide masking tape.
I bought this van used and the inside was pretty scratched up so I ended up painting most of the interior. Once I got that and the rust taken care of I was running out of good weather. On the exterior I just did the drip edge and the bottom section that has the chip guard.
As you can see from the one picture I'm working into the night to get it done while the weather holds.
Lessons Learned: If you're painting outside, don't work into the night. You be picking the bugs out later. Another tip, A single edged razor blade is really good at getting overspray off your windshield.
If you're careful the results are surprising good. Not just my own opinion. When working on the street other people will be sure to give you their observations.
Lessons Learned: When working on the street with respirator and goggles expect plenty of strange looks from those passing by.
The paint sprayer I use is the "Kobalt Small Gravity Feed Spray Gun - $37.96" from Lowe's.
This type holds the paint in a small container on top of the gun. The main advantage is since it's a gravity feed there is less parts to clean vs the type where the paint is held underneath the gun. Disadvantage is that it doesn't hold a lot of paint but if you run out it's easy to refill.
I also bought a "Air Adjusting Valve - $14.96" that attaches between the gun and the air hose so you can adjust the pressure right at the gun (important).
I had the advantage of practicing on the inside parts of the van which will be covered over when the conversion is complete. It doesn't take that long to get the hang of the painting. Learning how to properly adjust the gun I found to be harder. A big piece of cardboard is handy/nessasary for dialing in the gun.
Back in October I had Sportsmobile of Huntington Indiana install a Penthouse Top on the van.
Here's the shop.
The front door reminded me of something you might see in a movie about the St Valentines Day Massacre. Really old style.
Sportsmobile does full conversions. There were a couple other vans there being worked on.
Outside there are new vans (and tops) ready for conversion.
Here is my top upside down pre install:
The cost is $5195.
If you pay in cash there is no sales tax in Indiana.
At least that's what they told me and I wasn't going to argue with them. Sportsmobile also provided a hotel room and a rental car at no charge.
I'd never make it as a gangster. Carrying that much cash around made me REAL nervous.
I dropped the van off at 7:00am and they were done by noon. My install went faster than normal since the van is mostly empty.
What I saved in sales tax paid for a new window on the driver's side.
If you're killing time in Huntington be sure to stop by the Dan Quayle Center.
I just missed the Tea Party.
I had to stop on the way home and admire my new top at a rest stop in Ohio. My but it's awfully flat out there (wrote the West Virginia native).
I've since gone camping with with the new top a couple of times just to try it out. Expensive but worth every penny.
Here's the shop.
The front door reminded me of something you might see in a movie about the St Valentines Day Massacre. Really old style.
Sportsmobile does full conversions. There were a couple other vans there being worked on.
Outside there are new vans (and tops) ready for conversion.
Here is my top upside down pre install:
The cost is $5195.
If you pay in cash there is no sales tax in Indiana.
At least that's what they told me and I wasn't going to argue with them. Sportsmobile also provided a hotel room and a rental car at no charge.
I'd never make it as a gangster. Carrying that much cash around made me REAL nervous.
I dropped the van off at 7:00am and they were done by noon. My install went faster than normal since the van is mostly empty.
What I saved in sales tax paid for a new window on the driver's side.
If you're killing time in Huntington be sure to stop by the Dan Quayle Center.
I just missed the Tea Party.
I had to stop on the way home and admire my new top at a rest stop in Ohio. My but it's awfully flat out there (wrote the West Virginia native).
I've since gone camping with with the new top a couple of times just to try it out. Expensive but worth every penny.
