Back to work.
I'm going install a trailer hitch and then a bike rack on the van.
I'm using a Hidden Hitch Class III trailer hitch with a 2" receiver. I bought and mounted this hitch back in May. I used Model #87465. It's weight ratings: WC-TW: 600:6000 WD-TW: 1000:10000
I just checked the Hidden Hitch company site and it's no longer listed so I guess it's been discontinued.
I ordered it from etrailer.com for $184.95 (free shipping). They no longer list it either but I did a search and some other retailers still have it.
Here's the box after I opened it.
The box was damaged but the hitch was OK.
The hitch has a minimum of packing.
I was worried that the extra parts my have been lost with the big hole in the box but not to worry. The parts bag is securely taped to the hitch.
Once everything is unpacked this is what you get. The instruction sheet is one page.
Here's a closer look at the attachment hardware.
Notice there are three kinds of washers, three kinds of spacer blocks and two kinds of bolts. The nuts are all the same. The instructions read that drilling
might be required but it wasn't.
Before starting the installation I suggest you crank down the spare tire. One reason is to get it out of the way.
Another reason being that you can use it to help support the hitch as you install it.
The hitch is about 36 pounds which makes it too heavy and cumbersome for me to hold in place with one hand while I bolt with the other. So some extra support is needed. I used a jackstand.
I could have used two jackstand but the tire and the one jackstand worked best. With two jacks the hitch would rotate. The tire is wide enough it stopped the hitch from rotating as I raised the other side.
There are holes in the frame that line up with the holes in the hitch so no drilling is needed.
When you start using the attachment hardware you have to closely follow the instructions. The different square spacers go between the frame and the hitch or the frame and the bolt head depending on the bolts location.
The washers are slightly concave so you need to place them with the bow facing upward.
When viewed from the rear I'm working on the right side first. Just get the nuts started. Don't tighten anything up yet.
After doing the right side I slide the spare tire out of the way and moved the jackstand to the left.
Attach the hardware on the left side.
I ran into a snag when I went to install the third bolt on the left side. The emissions canister (charcoal canister) is in the way.
At the time I was installing this back in May I didn't want to mess with the canister so I just skipped the third bolt. The trailer was only going to be used to support a bike rack so I wasn't worried. Since then I've removed the canister and found out it wasn't that big a deal to take off.
Look on the outside of the frame member and you'll see the two bolts that hold the canister in place. Just remove these two nuts and the canister can be moved out of the way.
I got around to putting on that final bolt today.
Tighten all the bolts in a alternating fashion. The hitch will bend slightly as it is tightened up against the frame.
That finishes up the trailer hitch. When you go to crank the spare tire back up you'll find it now rests against the inside of the hitch. You might have to give the tire a nudge or two as it raises so it clears the trailer hitch.
Next up is the bike rack.
Open the pod bay doors Hal.
Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
WWW.WVBIKE.ORG