Thanks Dale.
I don't know that I'd call my van ornate. With the top down I still think it looks pretty much like your average work van, at least on the outside.
Heater Fuel Tank continued:
With the mounts for the tanks done I'll be adding a grounding wire. The wire will connect the fuel inlet to the fuel tank so they will both be at the same electrical potential. This is to prevent any electrical sparks when filling the tank.
The connection to the fuel tank was made by crimping a ring terminal to one end of a 12 gauge wire and tightening it to one of the fuel inlet mounting screws.
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I'll make the connection to the tank by adding a grounding strap to the mounting bracket. The tank will be in connect with the strap when bolted into place. I was going to make the grounding strap out of copper until I did a little research on
galvanic corrosion. The problem is that according to the anodic index, copper has a value of .35 V and the tank aluminum is .90 V. This is a difference of greater then the recommended value of 0.25 V which could lead to excess corrosion. I'll make the grounding strap out of aluminum instead.
Looking around for some aluminum I noticed this roll of flashing I had laying around.
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Cut out a length of the flashing and drill it to match a mounting bolt.
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Tape one end of the strap to hold it into place.
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Mount the bracket into place and use one bolt to secure the other end of the grounding wire between the grounding strap and the bracket.
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To check that I have a good electrical connection take a voltmeter and put it on it's resistance setting. Place one probe against the grounding strap.
Place the other probe against the fuel inlet.
Then check the reading on the voltmeter. In this application the lower the number the better. The resistance value is 0.4 ohm so it's a good connection.
By the way, those are my legs but that's not my tail.
Bob starting acting a little strange that day after the lunch break.
I'm afraid she's been getting into the catnip. Hope I won't need to do an intervention with her, again.
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