Step one. Bought the van.
Hello Everybody, First post. I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change. Here it is. Bought it Wednesday. Dro...
Forum Discussion
In several previous posts I'd made passing reference to my rustproofing. Here's a quick post on the subject.
I've not made it a secret that Hal had some rust problems when acquired.
I've posted before about patching holes. When it comes to simple surface rust I've been using a rustproofing product called Rust Bullet. This company makes different products but I've only used the Automotive Formula which is silver in color.
The company website makes all kinds of claims. The only one I can personally verify is that once it gets on anything, you'll have a hell of a time getting it off. Especially skin. Anything that sticks like this stuff does must be doing something right.
I think it does a good job. In case you use it here's some things I've learned.
Read and follow all instructions. This product is not quite like anything I've used before.
Before you begin painting have a can of Xylene, Toluene, or MEK on hand. You will need it.
If you're only going to use part of a can have some plastic wrap handy. Use the plastic wrap to both displace the air above the unused portion left in the can and stop the top of the can from contacting the lid when you go to re-seal the can.
Without the plastic wrap the lid will fuse to the top of the can. To open it again you'll have to peel the lid off with pliers.
Buy cheap brushes. You can get good enough brushes from Harbor Freight for $.099. Use them a couple times and throw them away. Beside the effect this product has the brushes, to try to get them totally clean you'll spend more money on the solvent that what the brush cost.
Cover you skin as much as possible. Did I mention this stuff is hard to get off.
I put on this old jersey when painting with Rust Bullet. I'll turn the collar up and wear a ball cap.
I also tape the jersey to my gloves so it won't ride up and expose the skin on my arms.
As soon as you're done painting find a mirror and see if you have any rust proofing on your face. You'll need the solvent to get it off but the trick is to do it Right Away. Don't let it sit. Same thing with your glasses. Don't let it sit.
Besides using it to treat surface rust I also use Rust Bullet whenever I cut through metal on the van to help prevent rust from forming on the newly exposed edge.
Who am I kidding. If you've been following this van conversion you know I've gone just hog wild with this stuff on the underside of the van.
Once I started treating the areas with surface rust I found that I liked the look of it. It also made working under the van a little less onerous. Considering all the time I spend in the Undervan every little bit helps.
I have no way to prove it but I'd bet that having the wheel wells and bottom of the van silver colored helps reflect some of the radiant road heat in the summer. Especially when you compare it to the flat black of most vehicle undercoating.
I've not made it a secret that Hal had some rust problems when acquired.
I've posted before about patching holes. When it comes to simple surface rust I've been using a rustproofing product called Rust Bullet. This company makes different products but I've only used the Automotive Formula which is silver in color.
The company website makes all kinds of claims. The only one I can personally verify is that once it gets on anything, you'll have a hell of a time getting it off. Especially skin. Anything that sticks like this stuff does must be doing something right.
I think it does a good job. In case you use it here's some things I've learned.
Read and follow all instructions. This product is not quite like anything I've used before.
Before you begin painting have a can of Xylene, Toluene, or MEK on hand. You will need it.
If you're only going to use part of a can have some plastic wrap handy. Use the plastic wrap to both displace the air above the unused portion left in the can and stop the top of the can from contacting the lid when you go to re-seal the can.
Without the plastic wrap the lid will fuse to the top of the can. To open it again you'll have to peel the lid off with pliers.
Buy cheap brushes. You can get good enough brushes from Harbor Freight for $.099. Use them a couple times and throw them away. Beside the effect this product has the brushes, to try to get them totally clean you'll spend more money on the solvent that what the brush cost.
Cover you skin as much as possible. Did I mention this stuff is hard to get off.
I put on this old jersey when painting with Rust Bullet. I'll turn the collar up and wear a ball cap.
I also tape the jersey to my gloves so it won't ride up and expose the skin on my arms.
As soon as you're done painting find a mirror and see if you have any rust proofing on your face. You'll need the solvent to get it off but the trick is to do it Right Away. Don't let it sit. Same thing with your glasses. Don't let it sit.
Besides using it to treat surface rust I also use Rust Bullet whenever I cut through metal on the van to help prevent rust from forming on the newly exposed edge.
Who am I kidding. If you've been following this van conversion you know I've gone just hog wild with this stuff on the underside of the van.
Once I started treating the areas with surface rust I found that I liked the look of it. It also made working under the van a little less onerous. Considering all the time I spend in the Undervan every little bit helps.
I have no way to prove it but I'd bet that having the wheel wells and bottom of the van silver colored helps reflect some of the radiant road heat in the summer. Especially when you compare it to the flat black of most vehicle undercoating.
