Step one. Bought the van.
Hello Everybody, First post. I camp a lot in tents but after spending three days straight in a tent in the rain at Dolly Sods I swore I'd make a change. Here it is. Bought it Wednesday. Dro...
Forum Discussion
Some floor work.
I had originally replaced the front floor mat with blue diamond flooring. Over time I've found two problems with it. It's hard to keep clean and worse, slippery when wet.
So out with the old and in with the new. First pull up the blue diamond.
The EZ Cool insulation was installed two and a half years ago but has held up remarkably well. No need to replace it.
Use newspapers and masking tape to make a template.
Use the template to cut out the new front flooring. It's indoor-outdoor carpet I bought at Lowe's. The carpet comes off a six feet wide roll which is a perfect size for the front floor. It cost 62 cents a square foot so total cost was around $23.
It's been installed for a few weeks now and I've really taken a liking to it. To help it hold up I bought Husky Liners from JC Whitney for $79. When the package arrived I found it didn't come from JC Whitney but was drop shipped.
They are a molded style with high sides
I specifically bought this style since it's molded to fit this hump in the drivers side foot well.
At first I thought the high sides would be a problem but I'm getting used to them. Might still do a little trimming.
With the cargo area flooring in place and now a new carpet for the cockpit floor it's time to add a transition piece to cover the difference in floor levels.
Use cardboard to make a couple templates to find what looks to be the best fit.
Get out my sheet of 16 gauge steel.
Cut strip of steel 4 foot long by 2 inches wide.
Clamp the steel strip to the edge of my work table.
I can't add a 90 degree angle to a piece of 16 gauge steel this long but I can do a lesser angle. Use a welding clamp to work my way down the strip and start a bend. Keep going back and forth with the clamp.
Checking the angle as I'm bending.
Test fit. I made the strip wide enough so I could easily run wires under it.
Add a notch so it will clear the back right edge of the drivers seat. Then paint.
After a couple coats of paint screw it into place. The screws that hold it in place only go into the wood flooring. Not the metal layer below it.
That's it.
Lately I've had an audience while working on the van.
But not to worry since Tiger never takes his eyes off of them.
If they get too close he'll have to take them down. After all his name is "Tiger".
I had originally replaced the front floor mat with blue diamond flooring. Over time I've found two problems with it. It's hard to keep clean and worse, slippery when wet.
So out with the old and in with the new. First pull up the blue diamond.
The EZ Cool insulation was installed two and a half years ago but has held up remarkably well. No need to replace it.
Use newspapers and masking tape to make a template.
Use the template to cut out the new front flooring. It's indoor-outdoor carpet I bought at Lowe's. The carpet comes off a six feet wide roll which is a perfect size for the front floor. It cost 62 cents a square foot so total cost was around $23.
It's been installed for a few weeks now and I've really taken a liking to it. To help it hold up I bought Husky Liners from JC Whitney for $79. When the package arrived I found it didn't come from JC Whitney but was drop shipped.
They are a molded style with high sides
I specifically bought this style since it's molded to fit this hump in the drivers side foot well.
At first I thought the high sides would be a problem but I'm getting used to them. Might still do a little trimming.
With the cargo area flooring in place and now a new carpet for the cockpit floor it's time to add a transition piece to cover the difference in floor levels.
Use cardboard to make a couple templates to find what looks to be the best fit.
Get out my sheet of 16 gauge steel.
Cut strip of steel 4 foot long by 2 inches wide.
Clamp the steel strip to the edge of my work table.
I can't add a 90 degree angle to a piece of 16 gauge steel this long but I can do a lesser angle. Use a welding clamp to work my way down the strip and start a bend. Keep going back and forth with the clamp.
Checking the angle as I'm bending.
Test fit. I made the strip wide enough so I could easily run wires under it.
Add a notch so it will clear the back right edge of the drivers seat. Then paint.
After a couple coats of paint screw it into place. The screws that hold it in place only go into the wood flooring. Not the metal layer below it.
That's it.
Lately I've had an audience while working on the van.
But not to worry since Tiger never takes his eyes off of them.
If they get too close he'll have to take them down. After all his name is "Tiger".
