Forum Discussion
j-d
Mar 09, 2017Explorer II
This won't free a stuck valve, but it may ease things over time: Add some Soap. Gray tank valves rarely stick. Of course part of that is, there's less blade area to get stuck. But also, they benefit from soap and grease as part of dish- and hand-washing. Black tanks don't get that, just sticky, well, you know what. We tend to fill gray faster than black. So, I do a little "tank blending" by putting some soapy dishwater in it once in awhile.
A tank flushing system probably helps keep the blade seal area a little cleaner, too. We don't have one, so I've installed a valve to shut water to the toilet off, and a block to hold the toilet's flush blade handle in the open (flush) position. Then I dump a couple large buckets of water (say 03 gallons each) down the toilet as smoothly as I can. That breaks down the "pyramid" that can form right below the toilet, and it seems to help, along with soap, keep the valve moving and even reduces seeping.
Remember this little goodie from Valterra
It lets you add a new valve to where your dump hose connects. If your built-in valve(s) become leaky or won't operate, (as long as they're OPEN or you can get them open), you can control leakage with that new valve.
A tank flushing system probably helps keep the blade seal area a little cleaner, too. We don't have one, so I've installed a valve to shut water to the toilet off, and a block to hold the toilet's flush blade handle in the open (flush) position. Then I dump a couple large buckets of water (say 03 gallons each) down the toilet as smoothly as I can. That breaks down the "pyramid" that can form right below the toilet, and it seems to help, along with soap, keep the valve moving and even reduces seeping.
Remember this little goodie from Valterra
It lets you add a new valve to where your dump hose connects. If your built-in valve(s) become leaky or won't operate, (as long as they're OPEN or you can get them open), you can control leakage with that new valve.
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