surge protectors

[mammothsteve]

Hello all. Recently bought a DP and am curious to know about surge protectors. I have RV'D for the past 40 years with everything from a cab over, a class C to several 5th wheels. In all those years, I never had a surge protector. I'm reading posts from several people that have had issues with these devices.
My question(s) are thus:
Are surge issues commonplace? Is it REALLY necessary to have one? Are RV park spikes that frequent or is this just a sales pitch to spend $300+?
If it is an issue, is a portable or hardwired unit better that the other?
Thank you for any response. All the best!

[CharlesinGA]

These forums are killing me. I bought a C class last fall and spent the winter fixing small items and replacing broke or missing stuff. Have given thought to a power management system but have avoided making a decision. After reading this thread (and several others elsewhere) I have just now ordered a Progressive Power EMS-HW30C Which I will hardwire into my C class.

Charles

[donee]

FWIW, when we got our first rig, the dealer asked if we would like one and I asked if it was necessary.
The reason he gave made sense to me. He asked if I would use the rig without a regulator for the water. Then said the reasoning for the surge protector was along the same thinking.
We use a portable one everytime we are in a campground.
Hope this helps.

[Gene_M]

westom wrote:

Gene_M wrote:
So I will be going with only a hardwired device at this time, I just have to make up my mind if I want to install it before or after the transfer switch.

That works just fine for the overwhelming most anomalies seen in a campground. Mounting it to also 'protect' from a generator typically does little to nothing useful. Since a good generator already makes those 'protected from' anomalies irrelevant. The anomalies that a good protector protects from are unique to AC power in campgrounds.

I tend to agree, so shore power protection only it is.
Good point Westom.

[westom]

Tgator1 wrote:
Someone commented that it should not be installed if RV has an inverter.

If he did not say why, then it is only wild speculation.

[Tgator1]

Went to Amazon to order the hard wired 50 amp. Someone commented that it should not be installed if RV has an inverter. We will have an inverter for our residential refrigerator. So, guess I can't use one.

[Tgator1]

Thanks, Icky!

[IAMICHABOD]

Tgator1 wrote:
Are the hard wired units "diy", or do they require a licensed electrician to install?

Very simple DIY install.

Here is a video that shows how to do it

[Tgator1]

Are the hard wired units "diy", or do they require a licensed electrician to install?

[Yankee_Clipper]

If you come to our neck of the woods, you are entering the lightning capital of the world. One lightning strike in the woods next to my house last summer killed three large pines with just one bolt. So here in south Georgia, use a surge protector and swim where the alligator nets are.

[westom]

Gene_M wrote:
So I will be going with only a hardwired device at this time, I just have to make up my mind if I want to install it before or after the transfer switch.

That works just fine for the overwhelming most anomalies seen in a campground. Mounting it to also 'protect' from a generator typically does little to nothing useful. Since a good generator already makes those 'protected from' anomalies irrelevant. The anomalies that a good protector protects from are unique to AC power in campgrounds.

[Gene_M]

westom wrote:

Gene_M wrote:
Progressive Industries Portable Electrical Management Systems (EMS) provide full RV protection against all adverse power conditions. You will feel secure with multi-mode surge, voltage, polarity and lost/open neutral protection.

Without numbers for each feature, then nobody can answer honestly. Even a knot tied in a power cord is protection from some of those anomalies - as long as we forget to include numbers.

Progressive protects from some anomalies (called surges) such as insufficient voltage. Specification numbers are essential to say how much; either near zero or effective.

A 'whole house' protector does not claim to protect from common anomalies found in campgrounds - ie insufficient voltage.

'Whole house' protection does protect from direct lightning strikes if properly installed. That means it must connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. That same low impedance requirement is why a Progressive must connect at the pole (as close as practicable to an earth ground electrode) to provide similar protection.

A 'whole house' protector (or Progressive) too close to appliances and too far from earth ground (ie inside a camper) means protection from that type of surge has been compromised.

Effective answers require numbers. Any claim without numbers can all but prove it can save the world. Each and different anomaly (all called surges) must be discussed individually and quantitatively to have a useful answer. That quote is best ignored since each claim is only subjective (qualitative).

Westom, Thanks for the response. I copy/pasted the info from the PI website just to give an idea of what I was talking about, there are numbers associated but I did not copy /paste them to save space, I guess.

From what I have been reading the bulk of members on this thread use hardwired and a few have both the hardwired and portable that plug in at the post. I don't want to spend money on a device that can easily be swiped when no one is around, and a locking box around the connection is no match for a wire cutter anyway.

So I will be going with only a hardwired device at this time, I just have to make up my mind if I want to install it before or after the transfer switch.

Cheers!

[Gene_M]

Thanks for the advice Drew, much appreciated. I believe the bypass switch works with the LCHW units, they just don't have the remote display.

One more question for the group:
should I wire it in before or after the automatic transfer switch?

[westom]

Gene_M wrote:
Progressive Industries Portable Electrical Management Systems (EMS) provide full RV protection against all adverse power conditions. You will feel secure with multi-mode surge, voltage, polarity and lost/open neutral protection.

Without numbers for each feature, then nobody can answer honestly. Even a knot tied in a power cord is protection from some of those anomalies - as long as we forget to include numbers.

Progressive protects from some anomalies (called surges) such as insufficient voltage. Specification numbers are essential to say how much; either near zero or effective.

A 'whole house' protector does not claim to protect from common anomalies found in campgrounds - ie insufficient voltage.

'Whole house' protection does protect from direct lightning strikes if properly installed. That means it must connect low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. That same low impedance requirement is why a Progressive must connect at the pole (as close as practicable to an earth ground electrode) to provide similar protection.

A 'whole house' protector (or Progressive) too close to appliances and too far from earth ground (ie inside a camper) means protection from that type of surge has been compromised.

Effective answers require numbers. Any claim without numbers can all but prove it can save the world. Each and different anomaly (all called surges) must be discussed individually and quantitatively to have a useful answer. That quote is best ignored since each claim is only subjective (qualitative).

[DrewE]

Progressive Industries' EMS units are very good.

If you have a 50A coach, you should get a 50A EMS unit. If your coach has a 30A shore power connection, either one will work fine, but of course the 30A one is less expensive. (The only reason I can think of to get a 50A one in that case is if you might upgrade to a different RV and move the EMS over to the new one.)

If you don't need the remote display or its bypass switch, this would be a great choice. (If you want to mount the EMS unit where you can't readily see the display when needed, the remote is very much recommended.)