โNov-24-2013 04:48 PM
โDec-02-2013 06:56 AM
โDec-02-2013 06:40 AM
โNov-26-2013 08:42 PM
โNov-26-2013 10:43 AM
โNov-26-2013 10:34 AM
learningacrossameric wrote:Did he replace the shorted out heater and does it now work on electric? If not replacing the heater is about $30.
Well here is the update. The heater shorted out causing the 5amp use to pop. The heater shorted because I have electrical problem with my converter. (I brought out a mobile RV guy after I popped the second 5amp fuse.) The refrigerator is as vintage as my RV and I knew it was going to need replacing or some serious maintenance. I am now thinking about just yanking it out and replacing it with a residential fridge. I will do very little if any boonedocking so running on batteries is not a concern of mine. Looking for opinions on this subject and any red flags that I need to be aware of. I know about the size limitations as far as getting it inside. Has anyone done this and if so do you like it?
โNov-26-2013 10:09 AM
โNov-26-2013 09:46 AM
โNov-25-2013 02:01 PM
โNov-25-2013 08:10 AM
learningacrossameric wrote:I would check the connector that goes from the eyebrow on the front top of refer to the control board. On mine it is a white connector about 1 in x 1/4 in. Try removing it and cleaning both the male and female side.
It does have a switch to go from auto to gas. When I put it on auto it immediately goes to LP. It doesn't even recognize that the power is on. That is what is so strange.
โNov-25-2013 05:34 AM
Old-Biscuit wrote:
...And if you have AC power at outlet and the AC circuit breaker is not tripped and you have lights on fridge panel.....
Check the 5a Fuse in lower control power module.
In outside compartment...
โNov-25-2013 05:31 AM
โNov-24-2013 05:54 PM
โNov-24-2013 05:21 PM
โNov-24-2013 05:11 PM