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Tire Man Valve Extenders for dual tires

Cooncatz
Explorer
Explorer
can anyone using Tire Man valve extenders for rear dual tires give me information on their performance? Are they worth the near $300 cost to have them installed?
50 REPLIES 50

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
PhilandJoyce wrote:
...save me ONE tire pressure loss, it'll be worth it. I just can't put my faith in a rubber or even braided steel extension when it comes to my family's safety...

That, Boys and Girls, is IT in Nutshell. There are one-piece, solid metal, valves that hold air, that you can reach, and then there's everything else.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

PhilandJoyce
Explorer
Explorer
I had a rear-outer that absolutely REFUSED to hold pressure. After playing around with the tire/rim for nearly 2 HOURS, the mechanic could not find a leak. He even went to the point of completely removing the tire from the rim and doing an inch-by-inch inspection. Could not find a single issue.
Went to "de" winterize a few weeks ago, and the tire was flat AGAIN. I had already considered "Tire Man" valves, but this kinda put me over.
Had them installed (by a local shop that does A LOT of "dually" work (Limos, buses, HD trucks) and even THEY were impressed with the quality and precision.
If Chuck's REPLACEMENT valves (as these are not just extenders) save me ONE tire pressure loss, it'll be worth it. I just can't put my faith in a rubber or even braided steel extension when it comes to my family's safety.

leeper
Explorer
Explorer
Just bought the Camper World Borg and am very happy with the results. I fully agree with j-d!

Bordercollie
Explorer
Explorer
The term "tire valve extenders" is not accurate, you want solid metal custom formed tire valves for rear duals. The front tires also need solid metal tire valves to clear the hole in the wheel covers and make checking/filling easier.
Pro truck tire shops may sell and install their own custom metal tire valves considerably cheaper than Borg, etc. Solid metal tire valves stay on the wheels when tires are replaced. Most RV tires are not rotated, unlike car tires.

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Comments in ALL CAPS below. Not shouting, just don't know how to do Font and Italics.

ADOR wrote:

Is there an advantage of having the BRASS stem over the CHROME? Or the other way around? NOPE - THE "CHROME" KIT IS CHROME OVER BRASS SO IT'S JUST PRETTIED-UP BRASS. USUALLY PRICED $10 OR SO PER SET HIGHER THAN BRASS. OUR BORG SET IS BRASS, WHEN I DAMAGED ONE (TOTALLY MY FAULT) BILL SENT ME A FREE REPLACEMENT. HAD ONLY CHROME AND I SAID "SURE." ANY VANITY I STILL HAVE AT MY AGE DOESN'T EXTEND TO TIRE VALVES.

I have the Chrome kit from Camping World (only for the rear). I have not installed them yet.
PUT THEM IN! NOT A REASON IN THE WORLD NOT TO. THE IDEA THAT ONE BRAND IS THE ORIGINAL AND ANOTHER IS A KNOCK-OFF IS BUNK.

I called Tire-Man. He confirmed that the parts are also from China, assembled in USA. So that place the 2 kits at the same "Made in China" category.
WHICH I KNEW ALL ALONG, BUT DIDN'T WANT TO GET INTO A "FORD/CHEVY" KIND OF DEBATE OVER VALVES.

Tire-Man kit have ALL 6 stems (front and rear). CUSTOM FRONT VALVES FOR FORD IS NICE BUT NOT A "MUST." CUSTOM FRONT VALVES FOR FORD IS NICE BUT NOT A "MUST." JUST USE A QUALITY METAL STEM ON EACH FRONT AND YOUR SPARE. IF YOU PUT AIR-THROUGH CAPS ON THEM, THE SHORTY ONES ARE OK. OTHERWISE YOU NEED AT LEAST A 2" LENGTH TO GET THE AIR CHUCK OUT OF INTERFERENCE WITH THE RIM. JUST USE A QUALITY METAL STEM ON EACH FRONT AND YOUR SPARE. IF YOU PUT AIR-THROUGH CAPS ON THEM, THE SHORTY ONES ARE OK. OTHERWISE YOU NEED AT LEAST A 2" LENGTH TO GET THE AIR CHUCK OUT OF INTERFERENCE WITH THE RIM.

Both kits look well built. THEY ARE AS EQUAL AS DAY AND NIGHT AT EQUINOX. BOTH CHUCK AND BILL ARE STAND-UP GUYS WITH QUALITY PRODUCTS THEY STAND BEHIND. DON'T LET ANYBODY TELL YOU ONE IS AND ONE ISN'T. I SUPPORT BILL BECAUSE I FOUND HIM FIRST AND HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT GREAT RESULTS AND CUSTOMER SERVICE.

I'M PROUD OF BILL (BORG) LANDING THE CW DEAL, AND CW FOR GETTING INTO VALVES WITH A QUALITY PRODUCT.


Edited with spacing, hopefully more readable.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

ADOR
Explorer
Explorer
Is there an advantage of having the BRASS stem over the CHROME? Or the other way around?

I have the Chrome kit from Camping World (only for the rear). I have not installed them yet. I called Tire-Man. He confirmed that the parts are also from China, assembled in USA. So that place the 2 kits at the same "Made in China" category. Tire-Man kit have ALL 6 stems (front and rear). Both kits look well built.

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
leeper wrote:

That is a photo of a wheel simulator with Tire Man Valve Stems and not mounted on a wheel. They really do not fit that well on an actual wheel.

If you will look closely you will see that it is indeed mounted on a wheel.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

WA7NDD
Explorer
Explorer
I have had the Tire Man extenders on our class c since 2014 and they work fine. I took a 2500 mile trip no problem. Just installed the TireMinder TM66 on the extenders because of the good price Camping World had on the TM66. It was nice to screw the transmitters onto the extenders and they did not even wiggle a bit.
1998 Four Winds 5000 Rigby, ID

leeper
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:
leeper wrote:

That photo is of a larger oval hole. Mine are round and 8 of them.

Oh in that case here is a picture of your wheel with the Tire Man Valve Stems



That is a photo of a wheel simulator with Tire Man Valve Stems and not mounted on a wheel. They really do not fit that well on an actual wheel.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I dremelled my notches. Easy Peasy.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
I had to notch just a little. Eight-Round-Hole Simulators, BORG Dually Valves. Easy enough. But I'd suggest you cut or grind your notches. I did that on one side after I thought I could dimple the stainless steel a little to gain the clearance and it cracked. I'd rather have a ground-out spot (Dremel Tool) than a crack. Still, the tiny crack has not spread.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
chinrv wrote:
How were the wheels balanced by the tire installers with the long tire stems in the rims? Did they present any problems?


Mine balanced out just fine,no problems at all,they aren't that heavy.
Much lighter than the extenders that some use.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
leeper wrote:

That photo is of a larger oval hole. Mine are round and 8 of them.

Oh in that case here is a picture of your wheel with the Tire Man Valve Stems

2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

chinrv
Explorer
Explorer
How were the wheels balanced by the tire installers with the long tire stems in the rims? Did they present any problems?

leeper
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:
While I did have to notch a couple of the wheel simulators, it is not noticeable at all.


Thanks Bobbo for the info. I am going out to make the notches now.