doxiemom11 wrote:
We always park with all tires on the ground and the jacks are used to level and lift some weight of the suspension for less movement inside. If we were so off level we needed to put boards under the tires because they were off the ground, we would move to a different site or head for the nearest Walmart for the night.
Well I figured this answer would sooner or later appear. We just completed a short, 1,000 mile trip to the California Sierras and back. We made reservations at a campground that we'd never been to before. Our rig is a 36' diesel pusher and, while I've fitted it into some fairly tight spots, it does require at least that much in length plus a bit for the toad.
So, we booked a sight, AGAIN, never been there, that would accommodate our rig. Well, we arrived to see that, that site was seriously un level. I worked for over 1/2 hour, digging, trying, digging more, loading boards, trying again and, finally got it somewhat level. But, both the wife and I were not happy, that was an un safe condition.
So, we talked with the campground host and told them of our situation and that we'd never been there before and, we booked a site that was accommodating for the length but, was outstandingly un level and that it was an unsafe condition. The headlights on our rig, normally around the height of just above my knees on level ground, were almost at my chest.
So, the campground was almost completely full, as all of them in that entire section of CA and the Sierras is commonly at that time of the year, but, she had one spot, next to them, that was better but, not by much. So, we moved to it. I still had to dig out the back for the duals to "drop" into, and the skirting for the edges of the body so there would be no damage as I not only dropped into the recesses I dug but, as I dumped the bags, it would go even lower.
So, while this happens in the rear, I strategically placed my lumber to the rear of the front tires so that I would "roll up" on that lumber as the rear dropped down. The calculations were perfect. The skirting was about 1" from the ground, and the headlights were "only" waist high. The coach was dead level, the interior doors, stayed where I would leave them (a secondary test for me to test level) as well as the normal freezer plate level.
Now, some of you might say, "We would move to another sight", YEAH SURE YOU WOULD. Then you better plan on another site in another STATE! That campground, as well as many of them in the Sierras, (as some of you know them) is an outstanding campground. A very nice creek flowing through it from Rock Creek Reservoir. Tall pine trees, outstanding air, in a mountain atmosphere and more.
No, opting for another campsite is not a choice. And, like stated before, all of those mountain campgrounds are full, for most of the season 'till the snow comes. And even then, the hard core campers are there 'till they're basically forced out.
Anyway, I guess it all depends on your outlook and value of your situation. I was not the only camper that had to adapt to some seriously un level spots. About 30-40% of those spots are that far off. But, they're occupied.
Scott
AikenRacer wrote:
Every now and then when I level the mh, a tire will end up being off the ground. Keep in mind, this is a tag axle. This has never bothered me until I started seeing others spend a lot of time driving onto wood just to keep tires from being air borne. Just read an article in the new Motorhome magazine page 64 and it says "If any of the tread is unsupported, it can cause internal damage that may not be obvious at the time." At my job I see huge cranes all the time, set up for days, with all their tires off the ground. In fact this is the proper protocol for cranes. So where's the problem? Someone please inform me. If I have to carry lumber with me for this it will greatly add to the aggrivation and time in setting up....but I don't want to tear up my tires. Comments??
Well Sir,
"Aggrivation" in setting up? Well, all I can tell you is, it's not all that hard to get out, open a compartment, bring out what few blocks may be needed, place where they're needed, get back in, drive on them, DONE! Leveling is always a debate on this and other forums. I'm not a fan of having ANY tires off the ground when leveling. We've been in several situations where I used every piece of lumber I carry to keep things safe and stabile.
By driving onto a block, or some, to get it primarily level, you keep from putting too much strain on any ONE portion of the frame, body, windshield and much more. Then, if blocks are needed in the front, then I will put one or, whatever's needed under the front jacks so they too don't have to travel that far and, they don't have to do all the work to get the rig level.
If you think it's too hard to carry a few blocks, boards, pieces of whatever to use in assistance in leveling, that's certainly up to you, it's your rig. Now, as for tire damage, well, it took about 4 or 5 responses for someone (Wolf10) to get the message out about "partially supported tire treads" in this issue.
I've seen many "Stair step" ramps made out there from 2x6s or 2x8s and the way about 95% of the guys use them is, INCORRECT according to the tire manufacturers write ups on tire damage issues. The actual way to use a stair stepped, home made ramp is, UPSIDE DOWN.
That way, there's no sharp edges for the "hot" (just traveled several hundred miles) tread to sit on. The tread is completely supported, side to side, and full front to back. And, your rig is extra stabile due to several touch-points in contact with the ground. (all the tires and, all the jacks)
But, that's way to hard for some folks to grasp so, it's up to the individual and whatever makes them happy.
Scott
