Tow Bar Age, how old is too old ?

Carvin Marvin wrote:
Roadmaster will refurbish their tow bars at the factory for free. I have had mine done twice. It's 12 yrs old.

Not any more as they charged me the last time. I arrived w/o an appointment and had to remove/install the tow bay myself in the front where the service area sent me.

OP It's likely based on my experience that the nylon bushing in the arms and yoke are worn and need replacing. Have it serviced and I would not worry about age.

My favorite cleaning product and something that I have used for over 20 years, is Pledge. I clean my dash, tires, door frames and other mechanisms. I spray a silicone lube on all my tow bar joints and then a liberal amount of Pledge on the entire tow bar. I then wipe it dry/clean with a clean rag, giving it both a good lube, luster and protection.

When I had my boat, it had chrome steel rims. When I brought it home from a trip, I would spray the entire rim with Pledge and leave it on while it was in storage. Next trip I just washed it off and the rims looked great with no rust.

We're still using the Duncan Tow-Master we bought back in 1995, still works great and simple to connect to towed vehicle.

My Ox is about 14 years old and 11 of those years fulltiming. I occasionally pull be boot back and clean the shaft of rust and crud and add some white grease and pump it a few times. It again works just slicker than snot on a brass doorknob again.

I had the same issue with a similar aged bar and this is what I found based on suggestions from Roadmaster.
If you look at the coach end of the arms there is a rubber seal/plug at that end of the arm. That seal can wear or be torn over time allowing dirt and gunk to get in the back of the arm and cause it to get hard to move in and out. You can also get a lot of dirt inside the mechanism if the arms are collapsed "dirty" and w/o any silicone to keep them lubed.
That seal/plug is just press fit in the back of the bar. Roadmaster suggested removing the seal/plug (gently pry/wiggle out with a screwdriver) and then using WD-40 to lube/clean the bushing inside there. The tech basically said "lube the p*ss out of it" with WD40 while moving the arm in and out.
As you do this it will get easier and easier to move. Once you get it loosened up like new, then reinsatll the seal/plug and you should be good to go.
If you have a bad seal/plug, Roadmaster might send you new ones gratis.
Since that happened, I found the best process to keep from happening again is:
EVERY time I disconnect the toad, the first thing I do is wipe down the stainless arm with a clean paper towel. This keeps the arm from drawing any dirt back into mechanism when it is retracted.
Second thing I do is spray the stainless arm with a good dose of silicone spray before I retract/collapse the arms.
Since I have been following this procedure EVERY time, I have had no issues with any binding or stickiness of either arm.

As long as the bar has not been involved in an accident (extreme stress) it should out last the toad, the coach and probably the multiple owners. A bar does need occasional maintenance since there are a couple of moving parts along with replacing the attaching pins from time to time.

I have the RM Sterling. I take it apart once a year. Use silicone spray to maintain it.
Oil or grease is a no no. Collects dirt causes binding and scratches on bar on tubing.

Roadmaster will refurbish their tow bars at the factory for free. I have had mine done twice. It's 12 yrs old.

I don't have a road master but a blue ox. Ever 3 or 4 years, I take it to blue ox at a show, and they take it apart, put new seals, boots, pins and lubericate bar for about $25. They used to do this free at shows.

I have a Roadmaster...2001. Works fine. Some years ago, one of the telescoping arms would not come in. Making hooking up quite an exacting adventure. And, of course, once this happened (on the road) there were no pull thrus for the next 3 nites.
Contacted Roadmaster, gave them the serial number, told me I had a "Lifetime Warranty"...just get it to them for repair. And...then gave me a "authorization number".
Bottom line....within 2 weeks, the completely rebuilt unit came back...as good as new. Yes...the repair was free...but UPS charged me $94 to pack and ship it. Ain't complaining...comparing the $94 with the cost of a new one.......

Spray everything with silicone after every trip. Only takes 10 seconds.