Towing a car on a car trailer.

[Gundog]

I have a new to me Fleetwood 34' Expedition with a cat c7 and an Allison 3000 it has a tow rating of 10,000 lbs with a wd hitch or 5000 lbs with 500 Lbs tongue rating. My 2 current vehicles are a Dodge Ram 3500 and a Mazda 6. I also have a 16' car hauler trailer with electric brakes in good shape.

I would like to eventually get a better toad but for now I am thinking of towing the Mazda on the trailer. I just looked up the weight of the car it says curb weight is 3066 Lbs. I am pretty sure I will fit under the 5000 Lbs with the trailer weight. I have a State scale just down the road I may load it up and take it down with my pickup to get a weight and where I need the car placed to get the right balance. Do any of you tow with a trailer rather than a tow bar or dolly?

[tropical36]

Gundog wrote:
I have a new to me Fleetwood 34' Expedition with a cat c7 and an Allison 3000 it has a tow rating of 10,000 lbs with a wd hitch or 5000 lbs with 500 Lbs tongue rating. My 2 current vehicles are a Dodge Ram 3500 and a Mazda 6. I also have a 16' car hauler trailer with electric brakes in good shape.

I would like to eventually get a better toad but for now I am thinking of towing the Mazda on the trailer. I just looked up the weight of the car it says curb weight is 3066 Lbs. I am pretty sure I will fit under the 5000 Lbs with the trailer weight. I have a State scale just down the road I may load it up and take it down with my pickup to get a weight and where I need the car placed to get the right balance. Do any of you tow with a trailer rather than a tow bar or dolly?

So even if you go over 5K lbs, it's doubtful that anything will break or fall off. Not saying to do it, but we pulled a ton over for years, with an old gasser. The only ill effects were with pulling some long 6% grades and whereas the tranny didn't like it.
The tranny is usually the weak link in the chain (not with an Allison 3000 however), but one should always inspect the hardware for strength as well. Sometimes it only takes a stronger hitch receiver or with beefing up the one you have.

[ferndaleflyer]

OP won’t have any trouble towing that mess. I have been towing for years. More tongue weight means less trailer sway with in reason. I currently tow a 33ft Pace enclosed loaded behind a 40ft DP and have been coast to coast with it. You need only be concerned with power to pull and brakes to stop.

[dkreuzen]

If you want to position the car correctly on the trailer you need a way to measure the tongue weight. Lots of possibilities but the best way is to invest in a tongue weight scale or find someone who has one. I got one years ago and have had many friends use it to set up their trailers. None of them were correct, one who liked to drive all the way forward had 1200# of tongue weight for a 5000# trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-1000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REJTGI

[Gundog]

Ivylog wrote:
Load the car nose first and all the way forward. Do not worry about the 500lb non WD rating as that’s more for when the hitch is on a PU truck.

Wiring the brake controller will be a challenge.

I have been told on here that the coach is pre-wired for a brake controller I just have to find the wire loom under the dash.

[anakindogwalker]

I've done both: tow 4 wheel down and on a trailer. Biggest problem with the trailer is having space at the destination to store the trailer, otherwise I would prefer the trailer.

[tinkerer]

I pull a 24 ft trailer with a Honda car and a Polaris RZR behind a Discovery with a C7 Cat. My hitch is rated for 10,000 lbs. It might slow you down a little in the mountains but otherwise it gets the job done.

[Ivylog]

Load the car nose first and all the way forward. Do not worry about the 500lb non WD rating as that’s more for when the hitch is on a PU truck.

Wiring the brake controller will be a challenge.

[rk911]

load up your motorhome just as you would for a trip including full fuel, fresh water and lp tanks. waste tanks empty. food, clothing, pets, supplies, and people...don't neglect people. get individual axle weights and be sure each is carrying a load less than the corresponding gross axle weight rating.

the amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the gross combination weight rating of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded and configured for travel

- the weight rating of your hitch

- the weight rating of your tow bar

with a full tank of fuel but otherwise empty weigh the vehicles you want to tow. you don't need individual axle weights. then apply the above tests.

good luck.

[HackerAce]

I tow my '65 shelby replica on a trailer because it is rear wheel drive. I have never had a problem.

[Lwiddis]

“I am pretty sure I will fit under the 5000 Lbs with the trailer weight.”

How pretty sure are you? Why not weight it? OR do you feel lucky, punk?