Using battery charger in place of converter?

[Bucky1320]

I have a 1990 Gulfstream P30 motorhome. One thing that drives me nuts is battery life. If I leave it unplugged, the batteries go dead quickly, and in days I have dead batteries, which isn't good for them. If I leave it plugged in, the batteries get overcharged, which is also terrible for them.
It has a magnetec converter with charger built in.
In the summer, I often leave it plugged in so that the fridge can run on shore power. During that time, I think that the newer trickle chargers would be much better on the batteries. But how do I go about this? I would love to hard wire it, but with 15A output, I don't know that I could rely on it alone for power when we are using the motorhome. If I plug in the charger with the converter charger enabled, then I suspect the converter charger will continue to overcharge regardless of what the charger is doing.
I don't want to invest in a new converter due to the cost. After all, it is a 1990 motorhome, and I don't want to spend more on this issue than the entire thing is worth. 🙂
Any suggestions?

[Bucky1320]

harley-dave wrote:
yep, easy and quick to do. I just replaced my old Magnetek with this one from bestconverter.com. Just make sure you have a BIG soldering iron for tinning the wires before connecting them.

Dave

I put mine in two weeks ago. Very nice. Not a terrible job. Maintains the batteries much better. One less problem.

[BrianinMichigan]

Bucky1320 wrote:
OK. I'm headed in the direction of fixing one problem. So how does one go about finding draws in the motorhome? I have a voltmeter. Just have never done this before.

Does the voltmeter have a amp meter? That's how you will find the drain/s on the battery.

[gfs1943]

tropical36 wrote:

Just bite the bullet and install one of these... New Converter
Then when you trade it off, put the original back in and find something else to do with it or just sell it. You won't be sorry with the pain you'll save yourself, either.

My inverter-charger fried itself last summer. I didn't really use the inverter, so I used a 6 amp battery charger to keep the house batteries charged. It worked to get us through last year's long trip, but I really had to be careful with light use, etc. or I would get a "low DC" message on the fridge.

Last week I ordered the PD converter in this link, and replaced the inverter-charger with this converter. It seems to be doing the job, keeping the house batteries fully charged. Note that Amazon tries to sell you the converter plus the pendant for another $18. This converter, with the CV suffix in the model number, comes with the pendant; you don't need to spend the additional $18.

I ordered from Amazon because it was a couple of $$ cheaper than Best Converters, and shipping was free.

[Bucky1320]

smkettner wrote:

Bucky1320 wrote:
OK. I'm headed in the direction of fixing one problem. So how does one go about finding draws in the motorhome? I have a voltmeter. Just have never done this before.

You need to use the ammeter. When everything is off off and unplugged remove the main 12v connection to the battery. Place your meter probes across to complete the circuit. The 2a setting should be enough but go with 10 amp to start.

Make a note of the reading. Then start pulling fuses and note the change. If the fuses can't get you to zero then you will need to disconnect other connections until you do. Once you zero out the meter remove it from the circuit.

Then revisit your notes and determine what fuse or system is drawing the power. Do not turn anything on with the ammeter in the circuit as it will blow the internal fuse.

Sounds like a plan. A lot faster with a helper for sure.
Thanks all!

[time2roll]

Bucky1320 wrote:
OK. I'm headed in the direction of fixing one problem. So how does one go about finding draws in the motorhome? I have a voltmeter. Just have never done this before.

You need to use the ammeter. When everything is off off and unplugged remove the main 12v connection to the battery. Place your meter probes across to complete the circuit. The 2a setting should be enough but go with 10 amp to start.

Make a note of the reading. Then start pulling fuses and note the change. If the fuses can't get you to zero then you will need to disconnect other connections until you do. Once you zero out the meter remove it from the circuit.

Then revisit your notes and determine what fuse or system is drawing the power. Do not turn anything on with the ammeter in the circuit as it will blow the internal fuse.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Switch to led lighting. Cheapest source of supply is Ebay. Try one before jumping in "whole hog".

[Bucky1320]

OK. I'm headed in the direction of fixing one problem. So how does one go about finding draws in the motorhome? I have a voltmeter. Just have never done this before.

[tropical36]

Bucky1320 wrote:
I have a 1990 Gulfstream P30 motorhome. One thing that drives me nuts is battery life. If I leave it unplugged, the batteries go dead quickly, and in days I have dead batteries, which isn't good for them. If I leave it plugged in, the batteries get overcharged, which is also terrible for them.
It has a magnetec converter with charger built in.
In the summer, I often leave it plugged in so that the fridge can run on shore power. During that time, I think that the newer trickle chargers would be much better on the batteries. But how do I go about this? I would love to hard wire it, but with 15A output, I don't know that I could rely on it alone for power when we are using the motorhome. If I plug in the charger with the converter charger enabled, then I suspect the converter charger will continue to overcharge regardless of what the charger is doing.
I don't want to invest in a new converter due to the cost. After all, it is a 1990 motorhome, and I don't want to spend more on this issue than the entire thing is worth. 🙂
Any suggestions?

Just bite the bullet and install one of these... New Converter
Then when you trade it off, put the original back in and find something else to do with it or just sell it. You won't be sorry with the pain you'll save yourself, either.

[Bucky1320]

Ok! OK! I called best converter. It's on its way....in a day or so.

[CG_Dawson]

The "charge wizard" is an outstanding product. I have one and keep plugged in all of the time, never overcharged. It also periodically shocks the battery(s) to prevent acid build up.

[time2roll]

Bucky1320 wrote:
The above retro I can find for around $200. I'm not missing something am I?

You might find it on Amazon or ebay for a little less. You may also find a multistage converter on ebay close to $100 but then you also need the wizard controller and expect no warranty.

Bestconverter.com will help with any warranty issues and has a very competitive price. If you call and talk to Randy just make sure you do not get talked into a lower cost WFCO as they have a poor reputation for not operating as expected.

[wa8yxm]

Step one: Go to the best converters web site (Add the usual pre/suffix you my need to delete the trailing "S" on converters)

Step two, Order a nice Progressive Dynamics upgrade kit for the Magnetek hunk o junk.

Step 2b, and a Trick-l-charge (if you do not have bi-directional isloator)

Step 3: Install the above

Step 4: Enjoy

Progressive Dyanmics makes a "Drop in" converter upgrade for hte Magnetek 6300, I forget it's model number, but basically it is a re-packaged 9200 series.

Top of the line, non better 3-stage converter (Several are either as good or very close but none better). NOTE this is designed for Flooded wet cells and not easily re-set to other types of battery.

[harley-dave]

yep, easy and quick to do. I just replaced my old Magnetek with this one from bestconverter.com. Just make sure you have a BIG soldering iron for tinning the wires before connecting them.

Dave

[Lobstah]

If your batts go dead that quickly, I'd suspect you may have other issues. If I'm unplugged from everything, and running just the fridge, I can go for quite some time before killing my batts, and I have 2 6v trojans, so not a huge bank.

Jim