Water heater drain plug

you must have a suburban water heater and as old bisquit stated try to tighten the rod first then loosen it. at the dealership when we had one that was too tight or rusted we would always tighten then loosen to get it out. use Teflon tape when installing a new rod.

All our Winnebagos had Atwood water heaters and we got the brass plugs at hardware stores (took some looking for each one)we have had both 8 and 10 gal size.

Old-Biscuit I bet you even stop and ask for directions while traveling. Catching those recommendations was good reading.

Simple/direct answer is NO!

First off look at WHY an anode rod is used
Suburban uses a glass-lined STEEL tank which can rust due to minor imperfections in the lining/lining doesn't fully cover inside of tank (Atwood uses an ALUMINUM tank with a aluminum/zinc cladding so NO anode Rod needed)

Suburban OEM anode rods (Standard Magnesium/Optional Aluminum) are 9" LONG.......provides max protection for reasonably length of time (depending on water source)
When removed the drain hole is 3/4" which is large enough to allow flushing of scale/crud and dissolved residue of anode rod out of tank

Now look at the aftermarket anode rods WITH petcocks (Tank Saver Brand and a Camco Brand)
Both are short rods........less then 5" overall length
Both have SMALL Openings in rod to allow draining thru the petcock which has a very SMALL opening (1/8")

Funny thing is BOTH 'recommend' removal of anode rod monthly to allow flushing so 'debris' doesn't build up
Might as well not be lazy and just use a Stock (LONG) anode rod and routinely remove it to properly drain/flush tank of crud.

I have always had Atwood water heaters, so my opinion maybe worthless.
I would be keeping with standard anode assembly. It does not have to be a Suburban one, a generic will work.
Removing anode is a good way to get debris including the anode material out of the tank.
Inspection of anode is important to save the glass lined steel tank.

Do most people use the a stock replacement or are there any good ones that have a drain in it. I’m doing homework but keep seeing mixed thoughts. I’d love to drain it easily every use and then just replace anode as needed.

Because you have a Suburban Water Heater (from your description)
Need a 1 1/16" SIX point socket to remove your Anode Rod (drain plug)

Try to slightly 'tighten' FIRST then unscrew it.

Might need the help of a cheater bar.


After you get it out......
Use a 3/4" steel nipple to clean up/chase the drain hole threads
Use a hack saw to cut three slots in threads of steel nipple....lengthwise
They will aid in cleaning up the water heater tank drain hole threads


Use a couple wraps of Teflon Tape on new anode rod threads when you install it.

OK, let's start at the beginning:

What brand is your water heater-- should be a tag visible once you open/remove the outside access door?

If ATWOOD, you will need an Atwood plastic drain plug-- under $2.

If SUBURBAN, you will need a Suburban ANODE.

Without knowing what brand you have, we could easily give you incorrect information for YOUR water heater.

The item you linked is an oil drain valve. Your water heater sounds like a Suburban and if so, it requires an Anode Rod. Anode Rods are linked above.

Because it works with electrolysis, its threads require contact with the tank. You can still use Teflon Tape on the threads. They'll cut it in enough places to make that contact while still keeping the thing from leaking and allowing you to
remove it easily. You'll find crusty deposits, so point a fine water jet into the hole to drive them out. There's a "wand" that helps.

When you install that anode, wrap black electrical tape around the hex of the plug part so the socket forces onto it. Then align with your socket extension so it's all one straight thing. Makes it easy to start straight.

Haven’t been able to even get the **** thing off but I guess I should keep the anode then?