โJul-07-2015 12:31 PM
โJul-08-2015 02:15 PM
hanko wrote:
the two that I found the easiest are new finish and rejex. The rejex wins. goes on easier comes off easier. I do mine once a year, pretty much takes a day and a 12 pack. One of the best things I've ever bought for my coach is a water de ionizer. You don't have to touch the coach with a towel when you done washing
โJul-08-2015 12:39 PM
Vulcan Rider wrote:Tom N wrote:
Waxing will remove the clear coat shine.
It is really amazing the amount of never before revealed GREAT information one finds on public forums.:B
This revelation will be invaluable to the tens of MILLIONS of car owners and manufacturers and body shops around the world......who never knew it before.
โJul-08-2015 12:19 PM
sfo1969 wrote:
How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?
โJul-08-2015 12:11 PM
Vulcan Rider wrote:Rodz wrote:
so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.
Yep, I agree someone needs an education.
The "coating" used in automotive applications is not the same as what is applied to the (typically) thin fiberglass shells on RV's.
The big "real" busses are probably an exception but the paint and "clear coat" on most of them is NOT THE SAME.
Over the course of your "career", how many RV body panels have you replaced and repainted ??
โJul-08-2015 11:51 AM
Rodz wrote:
so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.
โJul-08-2015 10:46 AM
Executive wrote:
Once, every two years or so...I use Visa or Mastercard....:W....Dennis
โJul-08-2015 10:19 AM
rgatijnet1 wrote:Rodz wrote:
Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.
Obviously you think you are right. I was only speaking from my own extensive experience. I don't need to spend any more time looking up what I already know.
โJul-08-2015 10:12 AM
Rodz wrote:
Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.
โJul-08-2015 09:16 AM
rgatijnet1 wrote:Rodz wrote:rgatijnet1 wrote:Rodz wrote:rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.
Absolutely false.
What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.
I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.
To use your words, Absolutely false
Two part resin with pigment added=basecoat.
Two part resin without pigments added=clear coat.
I guess you have never tinted clear coat to increase the depth of color. The more pigment added the more opaque the coating becomes.
Here is one link:Clear coat questions
โJul-08-2015 09:16 AM
sfo1969 wrote:
How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?
โJul-08-2015 08:33 AM
Rodz wrote:rgatijnet1 wrote:Rodz wrote:rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.
Absolutely false.
What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.
I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.
โJul-08-2015 08:06 AM
rgatijnet1 wrote:Rodz wrote:rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.
Absolutely false.
What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.
โJul-08-2015 07:23 AM
โJul-08-2015 06:56 AM
Rodz wrote:rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.
Absolutely false.
โJul-08-2015 06:48 AM