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waxing Motorhome

sfo1969
Explorer
Explorer
How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?
56 REPLIES 56

BigSkyBob
Explorer
Explorer
hanko wrote:
the two that I found the easiest are new finish and rejex. The rejex wins. goes on easier comes off easier. I do mine once a year, pretty much takes a day and a 12 pack. One of the best things I've ever bought for my coach is a water de ionizer. You don't have to touch the coach with a towel when you done washing

I purchased one of these too and it's amazing there isn't one water spot after it dries.
2008 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ, 4 slides, 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi Quadcab 4x4. Blue Ox, Garmin 760 LRM GPS, Doran Pressure pro on all 10, M&G Brake, 50 amp SurgeGuard, FMCA, Coachnet.

FIRE_UP
Explorer
Explorer
Vulcan Rider wrote:
Tom N wrote:
Waxing will remove the clear coat shine.


It is really amazing the amount of never before revealed GREAT information one finds on public forums.:B

This revelation will be invaluable to the tens of MILLIONS of car owners and manufacturers and body shops around the world......who never knew it before.


Talk about "ROFLMAO" on that remark too, man that's something else. Ours is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with full body paint and, it never fails, every single time we go camping or, in an RV park, someone makes the comment or asks "Is that a brand new coach"?

Yeah sure waxing takes the "clear coat shine off". I've waxed that coach probably a dozen times in the four years we've owned, including the roof a few times and, it shines as nice now as the day we purchased it.
Scott
Scott and Karla
SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext Cab 4x4 Toad
2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing
KI60ND

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
sfo1969 wrote:
How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?

Usually once a year.

If I'm motivated then I'll use Meguir's products like Tech Wax 2.0 along with ScratchX 2.0, and then Quik Detailer for in between waxes.

If I'm not motivated, then, like Executive, Visa or MasterCard.
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35โ€™ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 - Workhorse)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41โ€™ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP - Cummins)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31โ€™ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 - Ford)
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs

Rodz
Explorer
Explorer
Vulcan Rider wrote:
Rodz wrote:
so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.


Yep, I agree someone needs an education.

The "coating" used in automotive applications is not the same as what is applied to the (typically) thin fiberglass shells on RV's.

The big "real" busses are probably an exception but the paint and "clear coat" on most of them is NOT THE SAME.

Over the course of your "career", how many RV body panels have you replaced and repainted ??


I've done some RV and boat repair. But that's gel coat without any paint. Repair, spray gel coat, sand and buff. It's actually easier than painting. The newer motor homes use automotive paint.

Vulcan_Rider
Explorer
Explorer
Rodz wrote:
so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.


Yep, I agree someone needs an education.

The "coating" used in automotive applications is not the same as what is applied to the (typically) thin fiberglass shells on RV's.

The big "real" busses are probably an exception but the paint and "clear coat" on most of them is NOT THE SAME.

Over the course of your "career", how many RV body panels have you replaced and repainted ??

weathershak
Explorer
Explorer
Executive wrote:
Once, every two years or so...I use Visa or Mastercard....:W....Dennis


:B That sounds like a plan for me too. I just don't have the drive to do it any more myself.
Full timing it since July 2012

Rodz
Explorer
Explorer
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Rodz wrote:


Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.


Obviously you think you are right. I was only speaking from my own extensive experience. I don't need to spend any more time looking up what I already know.


I give up. Have a nice day.:R

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Rodz wrote:


Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.


Obviously you think you are right. I was only speaking from my own extensive experience. I don't need to spend any more time looking up what I already know.

Rodz
Explorer
Explorer
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Rodz wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Rodz wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.


Absolutely false.


What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.


I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.


To use your words, Absolutely false
Two part resin with pigment added=basecoat.
Two part resin without pigments added=clear coat.
I guess you have never tinted clear coat to increase the depth of color. The more pigment added the more opaque the coating becomes.
Here is one link:Clear coat questions


Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.

Busskipper
Explorer
Explorer
sfo1969 wrote:
How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?


Just in case -- not a question of right or wrong -- but what do you do.

When I leave my Coach with out something on it it looks like POOP so I use a lot of Stuff. Not trying to ...............

Let's keep to the Question at Hand.

Just Saying,

:S:?
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
GX470-FMCA - Travel less now - But still love to be on the Road
States traveled in this Coach

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Rodz wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Rodz wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.


Absolutely false.


What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.


I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.


To use your words, Absolutely false
Two part resin with pigment added=basecoat.
Two part resin without pigments added=clear coat.
I guess you have never tinted clear coat to increase the depth of color. The more pigment added the more opaque the coating becomes.
Here is one link:Clear coat questions

Rodz
Explorer
Explorer
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Rodz wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.


Absolutely false.


What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.


I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.

viajante
Explorer
Explorer
I use Wash Wax All. It cleans and puts a protective coating on the rig. It takes me about the same amount of time as washing with soap and water. I am constantly getting compliments on how shiny the rig is.

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Rodz wrote:
rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.


Absolutely false.


What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.

sailor_lou
Explorer
Explorer
Another NU Finish user and I usually do it once a year. However, I missed last year and haven't got around to it yet this year either.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy