What to do when you are not camping for awhile

Hi,

I've never done anything other than winterize the unit.

I do have solar to keep the house batteries charged.


If I didn't then I'd fully charge the batteries and disconnect the negative post.

This has worked for me for 23 years.

if you have lead acid batteries you can either fully charge them then remove the negative cable, leave them on a trickle charger or remove them to a garage or shed. you should be fine for the winter.

if you have AGM batteries you shouldn't have to do anything except fully charge them before storage.

i'd winterize the plumbing either with pink RV/Marine antifreeze or by blowing out the lines with compressed air. see your owner's manual for specific directions.

be sure the tires are inflated.

i always stuffed the fridge and freezer with crumpled up newspapers to reduce/inhibit mildew. and leave the doors to the fridge and freezer cracked open.

remove anything that can freeze. food, aeresol cans, liquids, etc. from the kitchen and bathroom(s).

best advice...head south!

Repair what broke on the last trip.

I use mine off and on year round. All of my water sources are in the same compartment in the basement and it is heated. I close the bedroom door, open all doors under sinks & leave commode lid open and heat on 55. Close all curtains. This has worked for me in MD, WV, and here in NC. I head South as often as I can also.

I love the Head South comments. Maybe in a few years that will be our winter routine but I think my boss would realize that I am really working REMOTE.

I am sure you are knowledgeable about the winterizing stuff, so will pass over that.

I do go out at least once a month and start the engine, either gas or diesel. I let it run for awhile after it reaches running temp. I feel its as important to run the generator under a load. I will start it up then plug in an electric heater. My rigs have always been plug in to shore power 365 so removing the batteries is not a concern. I do have a trickle charger on the engine batteries.

Other than the normal winterizing stuff folks do thats all I do. Now is that correct or not do not know but its been working for me for year.

The generally acknowledged advice is not to start the engine unless you can take it for a drive long enough to bring all things up to temp. You can let the coach sit for the Winter without touching it.

IF you have power to the storage area where the coach 'lives' during the winter hibernation. One of the neatest things I have found over the years is a Battery Tender. It keeps the battery up and will stop charging when the battery if fully charged. I have not tried it on multi-battery applications, but the system is still 12 volts. Our coach has 6 house batteries (residential fridge) and I try to be careful to keep the cells within limits with distilled water.

Like already said, I fix what broke the last trip. That, or work on enhancements, upgrades I thought of on the last trip. :)

We typically use ours year round, its rare that we go more than a month or so without a trip of some kind. Also, sometimes we use it during the year for extra space when we have family over (we usually move out to the RV, let the family/guests have the house when they visit).

On the rare times we don't have a trip for a couple months, we usually find an excuse to get it out and exercise, drive it some at least once a month.

I think with a Motorhome, its a really good idea if at all possible to get it out and drive it a few miles at least once a month. Enough for everything to get up to temperature, like already said. Keeps batteries from running down, brake calipers from freezing up, and reduces the chances of critters getting in it and doing damage.

I've heard it from more than one mobile RV tech: The worst thing you can do with any RV, most especially a Motorhome, is to let it sit for too long. These things need to be driven, used.

As far as the coach batteries are concerned: We have a 30 amp hookup at the house that it stays hooked up to all the time, and the Inverter/charger it has does very well at keeping the batteries charged up without overcharging them.

Camp,

I live a little west of you just off on I-94, and we have had the same small A for 18 years. I am an "engine guy" and have also done a lot of boat work for others (and Money).

As far as the engines go, fill the fuel after the last excursion of the year. This is to limit the air space in the tanks that will both lessen the evaporation of the lighter parts of the fuel and limit the tank's "breathing" that brings in moisture.

If you might be laying her up for longer than an SE MI winter, learn how to "Fog" the engines to prevent internal corrosion. Once done, LEAVE THEN ALONE. This is not really all that important if she is just to be quiet from October to February. The humidity here gets real low. Boats usually have to sit through April.

If you do not know all about winterizing the potable water and waste plumbing. Best learn that now. There are two ways to do it. Blow the water out with compressed air or buy lots of Red Pop and fill the system with that. The water heater is a chronic issue, but it can be managed too. I like the air method because I only have to buy about a gallon a year and that is cheap at Menards. If the water heater doesn't have a by pass, consider installing one.

Lastly, the people that say to "exercise" the generator are the same people that sell parts. Best thing for that is to fog it and then drain the fuel out of the carburetor. Many small carburetors have a screw at the bottom for just this purpose. If it does not, clamp off the fuel line and run it until it stops. The varnish in the windings has been moisture proof since WWII.

Matt_C