where to get P30 chassis manual

mike brez wrote:

cj7365 wrote:
Thank Mike alot of good info in there, and exactly what I needed to do the wheel bearings

I had a P30 for awhile and had a bunch of stuff book marked but deleted it after I sold it. I will see if I can find any more in my files.

That would be great Mike

cj7365 wrote:
Thank Mike alot of good info in there, and exactly what I needed to do the wheel bearings

I had a P30 for awhile and had a bunch of stuff book marked but deleted it after I sold it. I will see if I can find any more in my files.

Thank Mike alot of good info in there, and exactly what I needed to do the wheel bearings

Some good info HEREI think what you are looking for is on page 9.

I think I would be spinning that wheel quite a bit with partial torque on it and then bring it on up to 12 foot pounds while it's still moving. In a perfect world you would then back off the nut one flat and magically could put the cotter pin in right there. But it is likely you would have to go a bit more to get the pin in. But as the manual says no more than one more flat.

When you say you will check the torque of the nut before removing I assume you do not mean that you will put a torque wrench on there and start applying torque to it. In effect that would be preload. I assume you mean to mark the nut and spindle for the current position. But I'm not sure it would end up back there after we packing the bearings and all that. That would be too convenient and the mechanic world just doesn't work that way. At least not for me. lol

More To See wrote:
The most important thing to know is that you do not preload those bearings. It will damage them per the manual. They just have you spinning the wheel while you torque to 12 foot pounds.

Then back off the nut one flat and put in the cotter pin - or if necessary back off slight more so the cotter pin will go in BUT no more than one additional flat.

Endplay in the hub/rotor should measure between 0.0005 and 0.008 inches when properly adjusted.

Also, the bearings must be a slip fit on the spindle and the inside diameter of the wheel bearings must be lubricated to ensure the bearings will creep. The spindle nut must have a free running fit on the spindle threads.

Some people have reported problems with backing off the nut no more than allowed but still being able to line it up such that the cotter pin will go in.

Have fun.

ok great,did not know about zero preload

I will check the torque of the nut before removal and mark the nut and the thread with a paint marker just for a reference


are you saying when the cotter pin installed it is either too lose or to tight?

The most important thing to know is that you do not preload those bearings. It will damage them per the manual. They just have you spinning the wheel while you torque to 12 foot pounds.

Then back off the nut one flat and put in the cotter pin - or if necessary back off slight more so the cotter pin will go in BUT no more than one additional flat.

Endplay in the hub/rotor should measure between 0.0005 and 0.008 inches when properly adjusted.

Also, the bearings must be a slip fit on the spindle and the inside diameter of the wheel bearings must be lubricated to ensure the bearings will creep. The spindle nut must have a free running fit on the spindle threads.

Some people have reported problems with backing off the nut no more than allowed but still being able to line it up such that the cotter pin will go in.

Have fun.

Chilton's manual 28642 covers Full-size vans and includes basic information on MH chassis. It is better then nothing but does lack information in some areas.

http://www.freeautorepairmanualz.com/p30-chevrolet-motorhome-chassis-manual/

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