Came close to buying a new Class C late last year but instead purchased another 5th wheel. Not so much because of their tendency to leak in the front overcab area but there was some other things that made us stick to another 5th wheel. Maybe sometime in future we will get a small c.My friend found an unbelievable deal on a used 2011 with only 3800 miles on the clock and wanted me to go look at it with him. It was in unbelievable condition for a 2011!! It had been stored under a roof mostly out of sunlight and rain. I could find nothing anywhere from top to bottom that looked questionable until I looked under the mattress in the over the cab bed. There were water stains on each end of the mattress on the bottom side. Close examination on the outside revealed water oozing out from the edge trim molding when you pushed on it. A classic example of lack of proper maintenance sealing. The owner was really shaken up by our findings and had no idea Class C's are famous for this. Now he was faced with a huge repair bill before he could sell it unless some poor unsuspecting buyer did not look under the mattress. I've notice a major change in some higher end models where the front cap is all solid fiberglass and actually wraps around the side a few inches. Looks like this would be much better than just having a piece of molding on the edges. At any rate, if you are in the market for a used C I suggest you pull the cab over mattress and check for stains!!

Yes, they are notorious for front bunk leaks. Many MFG's even quit putting windows on the bunk area, but still, they can tend to leak. The best think IMHO to do with a C if you like them is to keep them in covered storage and so that it won't be victimized by the elements all the time. Does it stop leaks? No, but water won't get in it if it's covered under storage. It's a great way to "stop leaks" and preserve the coach.

Lacking in quality, and flexing would be my guess. I think you have to be pro active in keeping up with sealing the seams, windows, and clearance lights. I usually look for delam on these, but a lower seam leak is new to me.Thanks for sharing that, Brian

my philosophy is that a Class C either is leaking, has leaked, or will leak. so be prepared to"fight" it.bumpy

While a wrap around cap with no window is less likely to leak. The seam where it connects to roof and sides can leak. Check all RV's for leaks at the front cap.

While it is true they often leak, a lot of it stems from poor owner maintenance or poor initial build quality. I check my seals twice a year and reseal around the marker lights / front window every 2 or 3 years. My 1994 Minnie has never (knock on wood) leaked and I rarely cover it (We tend to use it year-round). Just wash it, keep it clean, and reseal when needed.Also important is using the proper sealant. On mine I need to use 311 sealant, it is what they used from the factory. Dicor will not stick to this silicone based sealant. Some people use plain silicone, or just an incompatible sealant with what is currently on their RV. Then they forget about it and it leaks...

Why do Class C's always leak in the front upper bunk area?

ron_dittmer
Explorer II
May 03, 2017
ericsmith32 wrote:
Ours would be better if I had a shed for it.
That is so true. Every motor home would last so much longer, serving their owners so much better.

It is very rare to find any motor home that was stored indoors protected from sun/rain/snow/heat/cold, when not in-use.
ericsmith32
Explorer
May 03, 2017
In the case of my leak was the PO that didn't read the manual. It did say in the manual specifically where to check and what products to use. They used some flexseal junk and despite my efforts took along time to get anything to stick.. eternabond, dicor or alpha. Took a wire well and patience before I could get alpha to stick. It's fixed but the damage is done.

I'm debating on fixing it or get letting it go, either way it won't be worth anything. One piece fiberglass isn't a guarantee either. My grandparents has leaked also, I don't think gpa has ever caulked a roof. Could ours been built better.. don't know.. even houses fall apart if not taken care of. Ours would be better if I had a shed for it.
ron_dittmer
Explorer II
May 02, 2017
The Waites wrote:
Ron, where does a bornfree fit in the categories you listed? We'd have to buy a 15-20 year old one so would it still be more leak proof than the average 20 yr old class C ? Thank you for your time!
I am not that familiar with a 20 year old Bornfree, but I did a quick search on a 1997 model. It appears to be an excellent choice with regards to design & construction to avoid rain water leaking problems. Make sure to inspect the rig for water damage anyway for even the best made motor home may develop a problem. If left alone it could do serious damage. Your first indicator will be how it smells inside.....fresh or musty/moldy, and beware of air fresheners used to hide the problem.
The_Waites
Explorer
May 02, 2017
Ron, where does a bornfree fit in the categories you listed? We'd have to buy a 15-20 year old one so would it still be more leak proof than the average 20 yr old class C ? Thank you for your time!
Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Apr 06, 2017
Permit me to address your first question... A 2 way frig runs off of AC or gas and running the engine will have no effect on either system. You can run the V-10 for extended periods to power the dash AC or charge the batteries. This is not particularly efficient but can be done vs most diesels that should never be left to idle for extended periods.

:C
Viajera1
Explorer
Apr 06, 2017
Ron.dittmar, you posted in your great long post that one could run a 350 Ford for hrs.. I just bought an Itasca 04. The fridge in not 3 way, but 2 way. would running the engine it keep the fridge cool? I know this is in the wrong thread.. not about caulk.

Second question. This RV 22' spirit 33k mi. has both back corners pulled away from the prev owner's clipping the corners. I am thinking of caulking the heck out of them to keep out the water for now while I learn to drive it and not re-mess them up. It will be $400+ each side to repair, and I would hate to do it again (!) I would add a foto but don't know how..

Caulk on roof looks great, no leaks, I guess it is the orig Dicor caulk. will get suggested caulk to do the lights and windows anyway tho.
ron_dittmer
Explorer II
Mar 29, 2017
Reading of other people's costs, it's running between $5000 and $7000 to get it repaired.

If only the industry would standardize with a seamless cab-over. That is why the B+ versions are popular with the educated class C shopper. Not only is it seamless where it matters most, but it doesn't move much, rendering it a much more robust reliable design.

But many people buy a class C specifically to get the extra sleeping quarters. Then they should be built like this.

Not Like This
Mich_F
Explorer
Mar 29, 2017
mikethetexan wrote:
Mich F wrote:
Scary pictures

Slight thread drift, but can you give a ballpark estimate of how much a repair like this costs?

I don't have enough to worry about, and it looks like this might be something to keep me awake at night. ;)

My son says that's about a $7,000 repair. Normally the damage is no where near extensive as it was on this one. Both wings, the front wall, the bunk board and both transition walls have to be replaced.
mikethetexan
Explorer
Mar 27, 2017
Mich F wrote:
Scary pictures

Slight thread drift, but can you give a ballpark estimate of how much a repair like this costs?

I don't have enough to worry about, and it looks like this might be something to keep me awake at night. ;)
Olddud
Explorer
Mar 27, 2017
Likes to tow wrote:
--- I will force her to review ---

Brave man.