Winnebago Won't Start in Morning & Damp Outside

We took it into the shop and they checked fuel pressure and it was just fine. They changed out something in the starter and now it works just fine.

After much thought and much money being dumped into the 1994 Winnebago...we upgraded to a Fleetwood Pace Arrow. This one come with a warranty so it makes me relieved to know I won't be dumping so much money into it.

Thank you everyone for your responses. It helped as we looked at the problem in a different way and learned more about our RV.

:)

No, I really wasn't standing outside!

Try to start it on a damp night in the dark with the hood open,you may see the flashes of light or the sparks.
Siggy

You need a spark tester to establish if you have spark at all. Don't just pull a plug and look for spark by grounding on the head or something.
And a coil test somewhere.

From memory: no guarantee

Ignition module is suspect. If installing a new one, they have heat grease included (or ask the parts man) to spread on or you'll be putting another on soon.

(Not the pickup coil by the way. If that was bad, you would not be getting either fuel or spark)

So from the pickup coil, the ignition module provides the reference high signal for fuel, but in this case more significantly, is also the on and off signal to collapse the coil based on the pickup coil signal. Sometimes only one side works, explaining the injector pulse, but no spark.

PS: I think these had a powder metal reluctor in the distributor which used to crack and shift on the shaft, but that's probably not the issue here
I think and hope.

Pull the distributor cap off on the damp morning as if its getting condensation in it, you will see it in the cap.

wildmanbaker wrote:
Dave, that's a good point, but isn't the coil in the cap on that year?

I don't think so. My multiport Edelbrock is based on a '93-'95 GM ECM (bank fired). The coil is separate from the dizzy on mine. The dizzy contains a servo for timing advance. The servo is controlled by the ECM, so assuming his ECM is of the same vintage, the dizzy would have to be the same.

BTY: If it does run with the coil isolated, I would not shut it right back off. There should be a separate physical ground wire that goes to the engine, but it could still want to send a small amount of noise back to the ECM. Long term that could be hard on the ECM.

as a owner of a automobile shop saw this all the time change coil

Sorry I can't help you with your situation - however, it reminded me of days long ago when we had cars with the problem you describe. Isn't it interesting how ones mind works?

Dave, that's a good point, but isn't the coil in the cap on that year?

My instincts wonder if maybe you have a coil that is going bad. I know people have mentioned issues with after market wires, but I have yet to ever have a problem and have always bought after market. Next time you have an issue, unbolt the coil from the engine and lay it on a piece of cardboard and try and start it. When coils go bad, most of the time they short to the core. If the core is isolated, it will prevent it from shorting and it will run.