Winter Camping!

ctilsie242 wrote:
How long are you staying in one spot? At those temperatures, I'd highly recommend paying a RV skirting place to make a custom set of panels, and using them. This not just keeps the wind from blowing under your rig, but sets up a dead air space underneath. Make sure to add rodent traps, because they will come to the warm area and set up shop, though.

I'd also see about where prevailing winds in winter come from and consider setting up a windbreak wall upwind of your RV.

Utilities are important as well. Keeping the fresh water and sewage hoses warm is critical.

We're quite familiar with rv 's and late fall/winter camping! Our 5er is very capable, but we were wanting a small motorhome for occasional winter use. And, am only recently started studying! Thanks for the tips, the skirting is very helpful. We had it on a previous unit, but haven't gotten a skirt for our present unit. It's been several years since we've camper in -20 or colder but like to have an insurance policy!:)

pianotuna, I misread his post!:o My eyes saw below "zero". Sooo, 50 degrees below freezing, is just a cool day! :D

How long are you staying in one spot? At those temperatures, I'd highly recommend paying a RV skirting place to make a custom set of panels, and using them. This not just keeps the wind from blowing under your rig, but sets up a dead air space underneath. Make sure to add rodent traps, because they will come to the warm area and set up shop, though.

I'd also see about where prevailing winds in winter come from and consider setting up a windbreak wall upwind of your RV.

Utilities are important as well. Keeping the fresh water and sewage hoses warm is critical.

Hi memtb,

50 degrees below freezing is -18 F or -27 C. Quite doable.

In fact anything above the vaporization point of -42.5 C for propane can be done provided the tank is LARGE. I do have a magnetic block heater which I can add to the propane tank, but I've never needed it.

memtb wrote:

Lwiddis wrote:
50 degrees below freezing would challenge most stick homes.

Yes!! A -50 would be a bit of a challenge.

Weekend camping is one thing..a long winter trip or camp is quite another. Big Foot and Trple E's, as mentioned are both really good three season units. Thermo windows, heated tanks and well insulated and the lines are insulated or embedded in the body.. The heated tanks thing is a bit of a mis-nomer. They are heated using ducting thru the furnace system. You could add heat pads to the tanks but then you have to have power to make it work. So..if you aren't cranking the furnace..you tanks are subject to freezing. One can counter that with a dose of RV anti-freeze or a cup of course salt. If you are camped with power..you aren't likely using the furnace, so much as a heater, right?

The on board fresh water is more likely to be ice free because it is inside. You can open up the settee and let it stay at room temps.

Weekends are easy...much longer and you want to ask around and get some insight on how folks handle it.


Gary Haupt

A used Triple E might be an option. They were always well built. Well insulated, have enclosed/heated tanks, etc.... for cold weather use.

http://www.rvt.com/Triple-E-Regency-29GT-2014-Forest-City-IA-ID7562338-UX77725

Thanks, Photomike! A couple of those things we do regularly with our 5er for winter camping. We're really hoping to find a small Class C, pretty much ready for cold weather!!

Lwiddis wrote:
50 degrees below freezing would challenge most stick homes.

Yes!! A -50 would be a bit of a challenge. We see -30 and a little cooler here several times a winter. We lived in our old 1990 Teton for two winters,while building our house. We never froze a water line!! That's when we fell "head over heels in love" with the Teton 5th wheels!

The Class C would only be used for short boondocking! A short hunting trip...probably would only see 0 F or a little below. Now ice fishing...that's where it can get cool! :E

It all depends on what you want to do with the RV. Most can be modified to work without running water easily, more work to adapt a water system.

Look for a unit with insulation in the walls as this cannot easily be improved upon and if possible thermal windows (large cost to upgrade)from there you can upgrade things like adding an insert in the roof vent, adding curtains to hang between the cab and camper / over camper door, etc.

Here are some things that I have done to make it more comfortable (I have a lot more to do to get it down to -40) Class C mods

Look, Tuna, we are a bunch of sissies here in Southern California!