Winter Capable Class C

Don't forget to winter proof the fridge!

pianotuna wrote:
Don't forget to winter proof the fridge!

Thanks, we’ve never had a problem.....yet! But there is always the first time! :S

Aren't these things mobile so you don't have to endure freezing temps?

azdryheat wrote:
Aren't these things mobile so you don't have to endure freezing temps?

Some people like, and do not run from winter. Plus....the Keys would’ve gotten pretty crowded if everyone tried to stay south of the cool weather! :S

Sorry but there really is not a true winter capable RV. It's still just a vehicle sitting out in the elements.

If you are expecting any of these so called winter proof RV's to 'perform like your stick built home' you will be VERY disappointed when the temps drop below freezing. Been there did that.

We have a small Class C, but it has about a 26,000 BTU propane furnace in it. The air coming out of it's multiple outlets is very hot ... I can't imagine it not being able to cook us out in just any kind of expected outside temperatures if we set it high enough and could tolerate the sound from it's long run-cycles. We would just need the propane capacity and electrical capacity to keep it going through the coldest of temperatures ... which could especially be a problem when camping without hookups and not near propane sources and/or when not using extend-a-stay portable propane tank adaptors.

Combine a small RV with double pain windows, with methods to keep the tanks from freezing, and with plenty of electrical and propane capacity .... and I can't imagine not being comfortable in very low outside temperatures. Probably "a small RV" is the most important thing for cold weather comfort. Mega-RVs in cold weather could be a problem, just like mega-houses and castles can be tough to keep affordably comfortable in the extreme cold. Also to not forget - fresh air ventilation of the interior must be maintained even in cold temperatures, so roof vents (with protective covers over them) should not be left completely closed or blocked off for too many hours in a row when staying in the relatively confined space of an RV for any length of time.

Hi all,

I have heated electrically down to -37 c (-34 f). It takes up to 7000 watts to do so, which works out to nearly 24000 btu's.

The issue with propane is a boiling point of -42 c. The rate of vaporization may become too low to support the demand from the furnace.

rockhillmanor wrote:
Sorry but there really is not a true winter capable RV. It's still just a vehicle sitting out in the elements.

If you are expecting any of these so called winter proof RV's to 'perform like your stick built home' you will be VERY disappointed when the temps drop below freezing. Been there did that.

Would you please tell us at what temperature rv’s become unusable (water in the system, without fear of freeze-up) in cold weather!

A 5th wheel (RV): lived in it for two (2) Wyoming winters. We saw a few -30 F’s and numerous -20 F’s, in our old 1990 Teton. We had water in the system, and never froze a water line. And....the heater cycled on and off, without any other auxiliary heat source.

In our little class c...we’ve been wanting to test it’s “wintering” capabilities, but so far have only seen single digit F temperatures. Water in system....no freeze-ups and quite comfortable. Hoping to “test” it to a -10 F or a little cooler this winter!

Terrible sorry about your experiences with your RV in “cool” weather!

A picture of our most recent three (3) week boondocking trip in November ( unseasonably warm), 2 F was the coldest we saw on this trip. The white drum on the trailer in photo, was used to transport water to our RV fresh tank.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi all,

I have heated electrically down to -37 c (-34 f). It takes up to 7000 watts to do so, which works out to nearly 24000 btu's.

The issue with propane is a boiling point of -42 c. The rate of vaporization may become too low to support the demand from the furnace.

We’ve only experienced that once (in our 5er).....a very low level in the tank. The wife’s hairdryer gave us adequate vapor pressure, until a bottle could be filled! When we expect cold (-20 F or colder), we’re going to experiment with battery heater pads, wrapped around the bottle(s). They don’t pull a lot of wattage, so they could be powered by the inverter without excessive battery drain. But could run of off generator if need be!

Hi Todd,

Look into a magnetic block heater. I have one that I can use on my generator--or if need be on the propane tank. I think it is about 300 watts.

There are inexpensive 120 volt heating pads at Walmart which do not have an auto shut off feature. They draw about 50 watts. Mine doubles as a warmer for the bed.