After our trip, I was thinking of how the single mask was dropping down but not enough to slip in the cast v-groove of the base. If the crank got loose, it might start rotating around.
So I took the piece that I had cut off, and tek screwed it on to the existing mask.
So I took the piece that I had cut off, and tek screwed it on to the existing mask.
Got the new antenna up and working yesterday, wanted to thank all for the help.
Went with the Rayzar on a modified Sensar mask. Cut the square tube down 4", so gained 7" over the stock Rayzar mask. Since the A/C unit is in the center, highest point of the roof, the Rayzar's line of sight now clears that nicely.
The biggest hurdle ended up being inside the RV. The factory had cut a way over sized hole for the Jack, NONE of the mounting screws for the new crank plate hit wood. So I had to frantically run out yesterday morning to find some sort of structural extension plate.
After hitting all the big box hardware stores, and thinking I was going to have to fabricate something from a piece of wood or whatever (which more likely would of looked like crap), found a neat solution at the local Michaels Arts and Craft. Used the 8" version.
Wilton separator plate
And of course a new Sensar PRO to finish off the job.
So how did it work? Even though we have CATV in the home, I also have an OTA system, with a directional antenna up in the attic, pointing at the towers (out in Driver, Va.) On the main SOTA Samsung TV in the living room I get 40 channels.
In the RV with the Rayzar I got 36. Good enough. ๐
BTW, one thing that was interesting. When one shakes the Rayzar, it sounds like a maraca :@, evidently there are a bunch of coil wires inside. So we will see how this thing holds up over time.
Went with the Rayzar on a modified Sensar mask. Cut the square tube down 4", so gained 7" over the stock Rayzar mask. Since the A/C unit is in the center, highest point of the roof, the Rayzar's line of sight now clears that nicely.
The biggest hurdle ended up being inside the RV. The factory had cut a way over sized hole for the Jack, NONE of the mounting screws for the new crank plate hit wood. So I had to frantically run out yesterday morning to find some sort of structural extension plate.
After hitting all the big box hardware stores, and thinking I was going to have to fabricate something from a piece of wood or whatever (which more likely would of looked like crap), found a neat solution at the local Michaels Arts and Craft. Used the 8" version.
Wilton separator plate
And of course a new Sensar PRO to finish off the job.
So how did it work? Even though we have CATV in the home, I also have an OTA system, with a directional antenna up in the attic, pointing at the towers (out in Driver, Va.) On the main SOTA Samsung TV in the living room I get 40 channels.
In the RV with the Rayzar I got 36. Good enough. ๐
BTW, one thing that was interesting. When one shakes the Rayzar, it sounds like a maraca :@, evidently there are a bunch of coil wires inside. So we will see how this thing holds up over time.
OK guys, here's my roof. It was too dang hot here yesterday (tied for the hottest day of summer), so I removed the old Jack this morning. As you can see by the tape, it is less than 3' from hole to Max-Air directly behind.
If I angled the Sensar slightly, it may fit in between the two back vents, just not sure where the Wingman would end up laying. Don't think it will fit in there. Going to wait until this weekend, when I bring the rig home in the driveway, before going forward.
The way I look at it, even if I just go with the Rayzar on the short mask, I will have (at least) the same performance as before, but without the worry of catching a tree limb. Which was a big worry for me, and worth the upgrade.
If I angled the Sensar slightly, it may fit in between the two back vents, just not sure where the Wingman would end up laying. Don't think it will fit in there. Going to wait until this weekend, when I bring the rig home in the driveway, before going forward.
The way I look at it, even if I just go with the Rayzar on the short mask, I will have (at least) the same performance as before, but without the worry of catching a tree limb. Which was a big worry for me, and worth the upgrade.
IAMICHABOD wrote:
May be this can help you understand the problem.
As you can see there is NO room to lower the Sensar IV with the element attached. Why would I cut off part of it and loose 25 percent of its usefulness when I can get the Jack or the Rayzar to fit and get all the reception that I need.:h
I was never talking about your installation but rather the options available to the OP. The Jack and the Rayzar cannot properly receive channels 2-6 so that's the first reason you might not want to install them. Additionally, the Rayzar plus a partial Wingman will still likely perform better for long distance reception than either of those.
Again, I am not suggesting that anyone do anything. I was simply giving the OP some of the options available to him.
I no longer work for Winegard so it's not a sales pitch either. I just happen to have a bit of experience with a number of different options.
May be this can help you understand the problem.
As you can see there is NO room to lower the Sensar IV with the element attached. Why would I cut off part of it and loose 25 percent of its usefulness when I can get the Jack or the Rayzar to fit and get all the reception that I need.:h
As you can see there is NO room to lower the Sensar IV with the element attached. Why would I cut off part of it and loose 25 percent of its usefulness when I can get the Jack or the Rayzar to fit and get all the reception that I need.:h
