Would a UPS Fix This?

UPS might carry you past the voltage drop, or it might not. My experience over the years has varied. UPS has carried most of my PCs through short-term power failures, but there is a finite switching time, and some electronic devices have absolutely no reserve or inertia in their power supplies to carry over the switching time.

For example, of the items I currently have on UPS, my desktop computer, router, external network=attached drive, and cable modem survive the switchover, while the cable TV box and Samsung TV will reboot. I had a Sun SparcStation on UPS that would reboot when its UPS switched over to cover brownouts, yet it would keep going fine through the brownout itself, so we took that one off UPS.

You should expect a UPS to cover you, but no guarantees.

You might be better off running that TV off inverter, which is like having it permanently on UPS with no switchover.

an inverter is probably the better choice. if you go with a UPS I would be sure to get a line-interactive one as those small disturbances that are causing the issue may not be enough to engage the UPS.

Kayteg1 wrote:

blackcows wrote:
No it's not a 72 inch tv but good batteries, maybe not ??

I got the ups installed and so far so good ??

You can always do the same job in several ways.
I am hesitant to UPS becouse years ago, when I was checking them - they would offer small and short-lived batteries, while the price was not exactly small.
I assume latest technology made big progress here as well, but once you loose your heart to something, it's hard to go back.
My logic is that you already have batteries in RV, so why bring more?
My Honda generator I bought 15 years ago come with dry battery and bottle of acid to activate it.
Honda always start on 1st pull, so 15 years later the battery is still dry.. if I find it in my garage.

UPS aren't intended to be used as a long duration power supply, as a substitute for having an inverter while boondocking... That's why the cheap ones have small short lived batteries. The average power surge or spike is only milliseconds. A dip or sag maybe a second or two.

blackcows wrote:
No it's not a 72 inch tv but good batteries, maybe not ??

I got the ups installed and so far so good ??

You can always do the same job in several ways.
I am hesitant to UPS becouse years ago, when I was checking them - they would offer small and short-lived batteries, while the price was not exactly small.
I assume latest technology made big progress here as well, but once you loose your heart to something, it's hard to go back.
My logic is that you already have batteries in RV, so why bring more?
My Honda generator I bought 15 years ago come with dry battery and bottle of acid to activate it.
Honda always start on 1st pull, so 15 years later the battery is still dry.. if I find it in my garage.

32" tv , approx 100w, thats 8amps

8a * 12hrs = 96 amp hrs
or about 42 percent use of a 220 amp hr bank

thats at max power full bright sound up etc

all likely hood, power use would be even less

and NO you don't need to tear out walls, you might need to drill one or two holes
depends on where the inverter goes, and whether the wire goes inside against the wall, covered by wire molding
or under the RV, thru the frame and then up inside

its some wire, NOT a 'remodel'

that 12v outlet in the cabinet is only good for 7 or 8 amps max
might work, might work might not
depends on the wire feeding it and how much voltage drop is there when you turn on the inverter and TV
the only way to find out is to try it

No it's not a 72 inch tv but good batteries, maybe not ??

I got the ups installed and so far so good ??

blackcows wrote:
So if there is a longer power outage, the generators run out of gas or something similar how long would it take the tv run through the invertor to drain my 2 batteries on the trailer? Hours? Days?

I assume you don't have 72" LCD in your RV?
With good batteries small TV should run for days.
Coming back to inverter/charger installation, it is considered luxury and only top coaches have it from factory.
I installed one on my conversion that had 50 amp service and wired it to only 1 side/panel that was operating front AC and kitchen plugs (for coffemaker and micro).
My unit was 2600W rated and had 30 amp breaker.
With 30 amp service on RV wiring is very basic and then you enjoy worry-free service.

I have our Dish satellite receiver and 32" TV connected to a repurposed pure sine wave Tripp-Lite 600VA (375 watts) UPS. The UPS was given to me by a former employer when the internal battery died and they upgraded to a larger unit. Since the dead internal gel cell was 12-volt, I removed it, disabled the internal charger circuit and tied the battery connections directly to the coach batteries with suitable fusing. The Dish receiver and TV are perfectly happy with the setup , and the UPS is set to shut off if the battery voltage drops below 12 volts. I have not tested the setup for battery life, but I expect the relatively light load would run for quite some time. I do know it switches smoothly when an outage occurs and when the ATS kicks in after I start up the onboard generator. Battery life would be a question of load including anything else drawing on the batteries, initial battery SOC, and battery AH capacity, so answering that question would be difficult at best with any accuracy.

So if there is a longer power outage, the generators run out of gas or something similar how long would it take the tv run through the invertor to drain my 2 batteries on the trailer? Hours? Days?

I have a 300W el cheapo MSW inverter that runs two of our TVs and sound system for when we're dry camping. Works perfectly. When we have shore power, I plug into the shore power receptacle. On edit: to clarify, in the photo below, the TV and sound is plugged into shore power receptacle; the white receptacle to the right is for the inverter - I just move the orange 3:1 as required.