Extending Battery cables

I don't see an issue with a butt/crimp type connector on a #8 or #6 wire along with heat shrink tubing. Soldering the wires would be another option with heat shrink tubing, or along with a wire nut depending on where the splice would be.

A properly done butt connector & heat shrink tubing is going to be a way better than what the factory does in A-frame areas in a TT where crimp connections are used and are exposed to water, dirt and salt. The photos below show the two mini-breakers in our TT. I recently moved all the connections and 2 breakers into a watertight box. The crimp on the ring terminal on the + wire from the battery was barely crimped and when I touched it, the wire fell right out of the terminal. No heat shrink tubing used on these terminals either. This was potentially a dangerous situation that could have resulted in loss of the brakes. Heck, I even had a few wire nuts upside down in the 4x4 metal box with water inside them. All done to code at the factory... :R

You don't need a continuous uninterrupted piece of wire, it would be nice but, need no.

A butt connector with a nice shrink warp cover would work just fine.

What if the cable snakes 25' through areas not designed for access?

I would never use butt connectors when putting longer battery cables on. Its very easy to buy cable and ends at any shop, and the proper ends to go on them...........also very easy to do..

SoundGuy wrote:

er78mph wrote:
How can I extend the cables in order to reach the new battery location?

SoundGuy wrote:
Use butt connectors to add the necessary amount of extension to each cable.

Grit dog wrote:
Guy doesn't know what to do and you show him pics of light guage crimp connectors? May as well suggest scotch locks!

HOGWASH! Butt connectors are available for heavy gauge cable and since the cable used on the OP's trailer to wire back from the battery location to the trailer itself is almost sure to be 6 gauge he most certainly can find suitable butt connectors to match this gauge of cable. I've got some 6 gauge butt connectors sitting in my workshop right now I'll be using to extend my own battery cables. Next time when you choose to mock you might want to first know what you're talking about. :S

Well before you get all worked up again, may want to go back and read what I posted. I didn't disagree w you that butt connectors will work, but showing someone who has no idea what they're doing 100 pics of light guage crimp connectors and a couple that will work if he knows what to look for, is not help. It's misleading.

SoundGuy wrote:

er78mph wrote:
How can I extend the cables in order to reach the new battery location?

SoundGuy wrote:
Use butt connectors to add the necessary amount of extension to each cable.

Grit dog wrote:
Guy doesn't know what to do and you show him pics of light guage crimp connectors? May as well suggest scotch locks!

HOGWASH! Butt connectors are available for heavy gauge cable and since the cable used on the OP's trailer to wire back from the battery location to the trailer itself is almost sure to be 6 gauge he most certainly can find suitable butt connectors to match this gauge of cable. I've got some 6 gauge butt connectors sitting in my workshop right now I'll be using to extend my own battery cables. Next time when you choose to mock you might want to first know what you're talking about. :S

There are some very good reasons NOT to use Butt connectors on a battery cable:

They create an additional point of water/moisture intrusion into the cable creating corrosion and increasing resistance thus lowering the efficiency of the cable.

It is a "flex" link that will work harden and break with time, especially after being corroded.

Butt Connectors are prone just never recommended for power cables such as batteries and would never pass a Coast Guard inspection if they were in a boat. An RV should be just as well done.

You can do any job half-a$$ed or you can do it right and install a new Marine Cable Battery cable or at the least a new one piece cable.

er78mph wrote:
How can I extend the cables in order to reach the new battery location?

SoundGuy wrote:
Use butt connectors to add the necessary amount of extension to each cable.

Grit dog wrote:
Guy doesn't know what to do and you show him pics of light guage crimp connectors? May as well suggest scotch locks!

HOGWASH! Butt connectors are available for heavy gauge cable and since the cable used on the OP's trailer to wire back from the battery location to the trailer itself is almost sure to be 6 gauge he most certainly can find suitable butt connectors to match this gauge of cable. I've got some 6 gauge butt connectors sitting in my workshop right now I'll be using to extend my own battery cables. Next time when you choose to mock you might want to first know what you're talking about. :S

SoundGuy wrote:

er78mph wrote:
How can I extend the cables in order to reach the new battery location?

Use butt connectors to add the necessary amount of extension to each cable.

Guy doesn't know what to do and you show him pics of light guage crimp connectors?
May as well suggest scotch locks!

To the op, crimped and soldered and properly insulated butt connectors will work but not ideal.
Replacing the cables (think they're old if I remember previous posts of yours) is best, or a well placed distribution block or bus bar.
If you have to ask about this, make sure you have a grasp on series/parallel, ohms law as it relates to sizing wire, proper techniques and methods.
A good start for the theory behind it is www.bcae1.com. Great resource for DC electrical projects.

You really need to get NEW cables. Whatever you do DO NOT put a Butt Splice in.

I just re-did my Battery/Pigtail wiring and posted pics onlne in the Travel Trailer Forum HERE Batt Wiring

Be sure you put in the appropriate size inline fuse very close to the battery and I really suggest a fuse holder and weatherproof box as I installed.

Building your own Batt Cables is easy but you need the proper style crimper if you go above #6AWG And I agree with Using nothing but MARINE GRADE cable.

Also apply heat shrink on all your new batter ring lugs. This will help in reducing the creeping corrosion that makes its way up Batt Cables whose wires are exposed to the elements.