Hi,
Since it is 'free' and worth all that you paid for it, you might also want to check out the roof. If there is any signs of discolored roof material (inside looking up for stains) then check the roof above very closely.
Check all the sidewall seams, and any other places for leaks, such as around each roof vent.
The air conditioner: Remove the inside cover, and clean the filter. Look for 4 bolts that clamp the A/C to the inside bracket. As the gasket crushes over the years, it will require making the bolts snug again every couple of years. Chances are it has not been done since 2000? Using a 1/2" or 9/16" socket, snug the bolts. DO not over tighten!
Electrical cord. Check it and see if the brass still looks shiny, and is not cracked or falling apart, I expect it to be in good shape.
Sewer hose. It does not matter if a little grey water leaks out onto the campsite, but if there is any leaking black water, you will not like to be in your campsite. Because you have not camped before, remember to always fill the black tank about 10 gallons of water before flushing it out. And once it is empty, add at least 1 gallon of water to the tank, so that any remaining material does not dry into a cracker like substance that will never come out again. . .
So when you arrive at the campground, I usually hook up the electrical and fresh water line. If there will be several showers taken, then the sewer line and open only the grey tank valve (smaller of the two drain lines). A few hours before leaving the camp, it is handy to have some water in the grey tank, so normally I will close the grey tank valve the morning we plan on leaving. Doing breakfast dishes or a couple of showers will add about 10 - 20 gallons of water to the grey tank.
Once you are within 30 minutes of leaving, open the black tank valve, and drain the black tank. Some will recommend putting another 2 gallons of water into the black tank, then close the black tank valve. Then open the grey tank valve, and let that 10 - 20 gallons of grey water rinse the sewer hose.
You can get a quality sewer hose for about $30. Don't pick the lowest cost here, you will have to replace that cheap kind every spring.
When it comes time to winterize, ask more questions.
If there is pink antifreeze in the lines now, you will want to rinse all of that out. If the last owner can give advice, then use it. If not, ask another question about winterizing, and if you need to do anything. You might have a hot water heater bypass valve. You want to test everything out in the driveway, before going on a trip. So fill the fresh water. Make sure that you are getting water from the hot water lines. Shut off the water. Take out the water heater drain. It should have water in it, drain out any sediment. Turn on the water slowly, for a few seconds. If no water comes out, then you might have a bypass that prevents fresh water from going into the hot water tank while winterizing the RV. If water comes out, then it is working right. Re-install the plug with a little teflon tape, then to not overtighten it. It is plastic! Only about 10 foot pounds of torque.
Turn on the water heater once you are sure it is full, and no air is coming out of the hot water lines anymore. Make sure that hot water is coming out of the lines before your trip. Rinse out the fresh water lines. You should have had pink stuff in the lines, and while this antifreeze is non-toxic, it is not tasteless, and is sticky when you shower in it! LOL
Leave the water on to the RV for a few hours. Check for water leaks. . .
Fill the fresh water tank. With the shore water now off, turn on the pump. IS it pumping? Will it stop pumping when all the facets are off? And not turn back on for 2-3 seconds every 5 minutes? If it turns on for a short time, it can be annoying, and might indicate the need for replacement diaphragms in the water pump. This is a easy fix. Or you can just turn off the pump when it is not needed.
Good luck!
Fred.
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