First time RV

Which engine does it have? Our first MH was an '85 Class C with a carburetor-equipped Ford 460. 6 mpg at sea-level and 4.5 in the mountains, of which we have a lot around here.

I think that Ford had gone EFI by your model year, for which you should be eternally grateful. I'm assuming it's a 460 V-8.

Off-topic suggestion: resist all urges to leave your awning open when you see and hear a storm approaching from across the lake, no matter how secured you think it is... That was a $4000 mistake for us. Same holds true for keeping it open all night...

I would definitely have the brake fluid flushed. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air and when you get the brakes hot from use you can boil the moisture in the brakes. You will have no brakes when the pedal goes to the floor and then after cooling off you will not have a problem. The advantage of doing this in a motorhome is that if your brakes fail and you do get stopped you will have clean underwear within reach.

Stephen2753 wrote:
Thanks all. I did view the video, who would have thought to not brake but step on the gas a bit. Potential life saving advice, thank you.

Tire info very important, thanks...and had not thought of camping in the driveway, great advice from all

I have been reading a lot on these forums, all good advice.

We live in Virginia Beach, 3 grandkids, and have three trips planned for the summer months, of course all oriented around the kids, Mountains, Busch Gardens and Williamsbug and Lake Gaston.



If there are any other suggestions, please feel welcome to let me known. I think that for this year, we will stay close, within a 3 - 4 hour drive.

I see you've got the right idea, after Camp Driveway, starting out relatively close is a good idea, I see in your other post that you're going to Loft mtn. one of our favorites, but not all that many activities for young kids,(unless they like to hike),be sure to bring their bikes.
Also Buggs Island, (Kerr Reservoir), which is right next to Gaston, has several very nice COE CG's. I know you'll enjoy.

First day with the new insurance, $ 410.

Do you think the person that gave it to you would take the time to help you learn how things work? Things like lighting the pilot lights are not terribly difficult, but most do have a trick to them. I would try to find someone in the area who can help you learn some of those basics. Now that you are an owner, you will start noticing the other RV's in your neighborhood, on your commute to work, or at your local WalMart.

Another option, is if you join Good Sam, they have a program called StandBy Sams, to help people in the area. I am sure there are several in your area, one of them might be willing to meet you and go through the basics for set up and break down.

Check tire dates/condition/inflation, Brakes, Steering, wipers, horn, All lights, etc.. Make sure it is road worthy and passes safety inspection.

Check Refr. H/W. Water pump, Both A/C, stove/range, all gas system. Check all water appliances/fixtures, etc.

Practice proper use of water storage and disposal system, i.e. filling fresh water tank, connecting and dumping black and then gray tank, etc.

Get good liability and collision insurance and also Emergency Road Service policy.

Practicing driving and parking before loading with other people.

Practice Safety First and Safety Last.

Definitely do the driveway camping!!

Insurance - call around to various companies to get an idea, make sure to check with your own. Don't automatically skip comprehensive and collision - check the rates with and without - the cost to include that in mine is so low that it didn't make sense to skip it.

Also look into Roadside Assistance. The debate as to which program is the best is unending and in reality, they each have their "sweet spot" (the specific area where one excels and another fails). Your insurance may also provide emergency road service (as well as car rental) for a minimal cost (mine is $20.50 per year for both).

Along with the tires, get the RV checked out for fuel lines (propane and gas/diesel). Fuel leaks can be very dangerous and you don't want to be out and about with your grandkids with one (or more). Hoses deteriorate in time and you can unknowingly have thousands of little pinprick holes in the fuel lines. Mine was so bad, when they did a smoke test, they couldn't see where the smoke came out - it was oozing out of the entire length of hoses (15 feet).

Also, don't rush into buying a bunch of stuff right away based on what you read. Go slow and figure out how you will be using the RV (e.g., traditional camping versus hookups) and what you want out of your RV (e.g., home away from home or the basics). This way, you don't waste money buying stuff that sits in a cupboard taking up precious space and weight.

Hi,

Since it is 'free' and worth all that you paid for it, you might also want to check out the roof. If there is any signs of discolored roof material (inside looking up for stains) then check the roof above very closely.

Check all the sidewall seams, and any other places for leaks, such as around each roof vent.

The air conditioner: Remove the inside cover, and clean the filter. Look for 4 bolts that clamp the A/C to the inside bracket. As the gasket crushes over the years, it will require making the bolts snug again every couple of years. Chances are it has not been done since 2000? Using a 1/2" or 9/16" socket, snug the bolts. DO not over tighten!

Electrical cord. Check it and see if the brass still looks shiny, and is not cracked or falling apart, I expect it to be in good shape.

Sewer hose. It does not matter if a little grey water leaks out onto the campsite, but if there is any leaking black water, you will not like to be in your campsite. Because you have not camped before, remember to always fill the black tank about 10 gallons of water before flushing it out. And once it is empty, add at least 1 gallon of water to the tank, so that any remaining material does not dry into a cracker like substance that will never come out again. . .

So when you arrive at the campground, I usually hook up the electrical and fresh water line. If there will be several showers taken, then the sewer line and open only the grey tank valve (smaller of the two drain lines). A few hours before leaving the camp, it is handy to have some water in the grey tank, so normally I will close the grey tank valve the morning we plan on leaving. Doing breakfast dishes or a couple of showers will add about 10 - 20 gallons of water to the grey tank.

Once you are within 30 minutes of leaving, open the black tank valve, and drain the black tank. Some will recommend putting another 2 gallons of water into the black tank, then close the black tank valve. Then open the grey tank valve, and let that 10 - 20 gallons of grey water rinse the sewer hose.

You can get a quality sewer hose for about $30. Don't pick the lowest cost here, you will have to replace that cheap kind every spring.

When it comes time to winterize, ask more questions.

If there is pink antifreeze in the lines now, you will want to rinse all of that out. If the last owner can give advice, then use it. If not, ask another question about winterizing, and if you need to do anything. You might have a hot water heater bypass valve. You want to test everything out in the driveway, before going on a trip. So fill the fresh water. Make sure that you are getting water from the hot water lines. Shut off the water. Take out the water heater drain. It should have water in it, drain out any sediment. Turn on the water slowly, for a few seconds. If no water comes out, then you might have a bypass that prevents fresh water from going into the hot water tank while winterizing the RV. If water comes out, then it is working right. Re-install the plug with a little teflon tape, then to not overtighten it. It is plastic! Only about 10 foot pounds of torque.

Turn on the water heater once you are sure it is full, and no air is coming out of the hot water lines anymore. Make sure that hot water is coming out of the lines before your trip. Rinse out the fresh water lines. You should have had pink stuff in the lines, and while this antifreeze is non-toxic, it is not tasteless, and is sticky when you shower in it! LOL

Leave the water on to the RV for a few hours. Check for water leaks. . .

Fill the fresh water tank. With the shore water now off, turn on the pump. IS it pumping? Will it stop pumping when all the facets are off? And not turn back on for 2-3 seconds every 5 minutes? If it turns on for a short time, it can be annoying, and might indicate the need for replacement diaphragms in the water pump. This is a easy fix. Or you can just turn off the pump when it is not needed.

Good luck!

Fred.