DownTheAvenue wrote:
Matt_Colie wrote:
OK Garmp,
I know what you have been told and most of it is not the best plan. The run the machine at half load is left over from WWII when the lacquer used in the windings was hydroscopic. It is epoxy now. If you are going to run it to keep the carburetor clear of old fuel, it is still a bad idea. If I got the right coach, you can't do much though the little access you have. So, what I will suggest is what any experienced engine engineer will suggest.
There should be a "let down" for the machine. Get a can of "Fogging Oil" at an autoparts storefront. Get out the owner's manual and find out how to stop the fuel flow into it. Now, Let it down and start it. Stop the fuel flow and start spraying the fogging oil into the intake. When I finally coughs off, close it back and wind it up. Now, leave it alone. It is now in the condition it was shipped and waited all those months in a warehouse or yard to be sold to you.
This has also just winterized it. It will be good when you need it. When you do, turn the fuel back on and hit the start button. It will smoke for a very little while, but then remember to repeat this when you get back home.
You do still have to change the oil every year if you run it at all. If you change the oil after you have "put it to bed", you should still change the oil at least every other year. It oxidizes the anti-wear additives and there is nothing you can do about that.
Matt
Sir, do you know more than the manufacturers and what the write in their owner's manuals?
Well Down,
Actually, I believe that the biggest difference is that I do not sell parts and service. Their plan (that has not been changed in years) provides their parts and service network with continued business that is virtually guaranteed.
I also worked for a while composing and writing some of those manuals and was instructed to not worry about facts, just copy the old manuals and change only what has changed about that product. (I did this for several manufactures and they had the same criteria.)
As I am a ship's engineer by trade that came to work in the engine laboratories around Detroit for decades, I have learned a great deal in those six decades about keeping stored engines and other machines in the best condition.
Even if you run a carbureted engine every month, there will still be residual fuel in the float bowl. The alcohol in new motor fuel absorbs water and becomes corrosive. Then the alcohol evaporates and leaves behind the water and the heavy ends of the hydrocarbon distillate. New clean fuel will not dissolve this. Onan does not sell carburetor kits, just replacement carburetors.
If any engine is going to be ignored for a long period, it is much better off being fogged and stored properly than trying to annoy it with irregular starting and ineffective storing methods.
Do as you choose, I have two Onans both from the early 70's and the one in my coach will start right now. (The other would if I got it out and connected a fuel source and a battery.) I also have three Kohler singles that are as reliable and there is even a 40yo Honda in the mix. (The house back-up) I don't like to run it because it is a pull-start. I do not tolerate undependable engines.
Now, let me ask a question.
After a year, which do you believe will be in better condition?
The machine that was thermal cycled every month and left with old fuel and oil in it. (Even in a desert environment, the combustion by-products left in a cylinder will cause corrosion.)
Or
The machine that was run only once (one thermal cycle) drained of fuel and fogged so none of the internal bare metal gets a chance to corrode.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
