How much pressure/torque on "stabilization" jacks?

My magic rule is "lift things a little."

But be careful. With the Jacks more extended, there's extra leverage so less torque lifts more. I once did lift the tounge jack up- which is too much lift.

Despite having a heavy duty frame, if I over-snug the rear "stabilizer" jacks (ours are electric) even slightly more than snug, our dead bolt won't go into the door strike. The frame flexes just enough to make the dead bolt in the door not allow to fit into the strike. Took me a long time to figure that out. The wall assembly has to be racking ever so slightly.

Tried to get the dealer to fix it at one point but when they asked me to demonstrate it, I couldn't - now I know it was because the "stabilizer" jacks weren't down. On my to-do list is removing the strike plate and filing it a bit.

My stabilizers are the electric kind. I run the rear down until the breaker trips. Then run the front down until it trips. I also use steady fast system and the trailer is nice and stabil

I've put them down and snugged them up by hand, no recipe, no snug-plus-x-turns, just snug. I've also put them down with a DeWalt 3/8ths cordless drill that does 165 inch pounds of torque, and found that lacking. I've also a Rigid 1/2 in drill that puts out 535 inch pounds of torque, and think that is too much.

I'd like to suggest that perhaps the best way to do it if you want to be consistent is with a cordless drill/driver set to slip at some value that seems to work for you. What that would be, I have no idea. Some experimentation seems to be needed, and next time we go camping, I will try to figure that out.

LarryJM wrote:
First the following is not applicable for the normal stabilier jacks since IMO they are not only ineffective, but at the wrong positions for proper trailer stabilization. My trailer came with the typical stabilizer jacks at each corner, but I was so disappointed in their performance over what I had been using for the last 25 years on my previous trailer I switched back to that time proven system of the old style "screw" type jackstands. I also experimented on the best location and for my trailer found that was approx 6 to 8 feet in front and back of each axle. For me the short answer is approx. 300 to 400lbs on each jackstand, but that will vary depending on the location of the "support" and the specifics of the trailer. I used my sherline tongue scale to measure the force on the jackstands. This "support" effectively removes the trailer bounce/sway/wiggle from both the tires and the torflex type axles used on my trailer.

The only way to set them is by using the tongue jack and in my case means dropping the front of the trailer approx 2 to 3 inches, putting in the rear supports hand snug then raising the trailer approx 1 to 2 inches past level the putting in the front supports hand snug. This results in an approx 1 inch high front to back attitude on my trailer. If I need to retighten them I just raise the front somemore and only reset the front ones which results in a little less front up attitude to the trailer.

Larry

This is good stuff. Thanks!

I have a Dewalt 19V. Set it to the highest torque setting without being in the drill setting otherwise the thing would break my wrist everytime.

my TT had scissor jacks at all 4 corners
my 2001 cardinal 5th does not us scissor jack in back, bit another type of jack system that goes all the way across. it does screw down.

is this older system as good as the scissor system.
also thinking of putting a scissor jack system just in front of wheel, I see many different brands. my distance is 24". is it better to put blocks in so the jack does not go all the way down?
thanks

Get a drill that has a clutch for torque settings. I have a craftsman C3 drill that has one so I can set the torque to the same setting every time. Once you know what setting works best for you, it's a no-brainer operation. Just zip them down until the clutch clicks.

JWRoberts wrote:
I've used a drill to lower and retract my stabilizers for many years and my method always work. Lower the stabilizers until they hit the ground and then raise them until the camper raises about 1 inch maximum at that corner. Works every time.

Same here, except I probably use a much smaller, lighter cordless drill than most - a 12v lithium ion Rigid that even though it's rated at a mere 120 in/lbs of torque is just perfect for lowering / raising the trailer stabs. :B

I crank down until the jack is firmly on the ground and then about 1/4 to 1/2 turn additional. If I go too much more the bathroom door won't latch which tells me I overdid it.