Thanks everyone for your feedback. I was able to get the trailer leveled out this weekend.
Used some high-school trigonometry to figure out how high the low side of the trailer would have to be elevated to become level. Cut the proper lumber once, backed the trailer on and it was perfectly level! All those times I thought to myself in school "I'm never going to need to know this!"
Also had to lay 2 stacked 2x10's down on the one side, back the trailer onto the boards and further back to let the back wheels drop off the boards, then put an extra 2/10 down infront of both front wheels, then pull forward to get the front wheels elevated higher than the back wheels.
So the front driver side trailer wheel is on 3 2x10s, the back wheel is on 2 2x10s, the passenger side front wheel is on 1 2x10 and the back wheel is on the ground.
For the tongue, I built and 6" platform out of pressure treated 2x4s that I could just barely fit under the fully retracted tongue jack when hooked up to the tow vehicle. Then I jacked the trailer up as high as possible, placed two jack stands under the trailer frame close to the tongue, retracted the jack fully then inserted another pre-built 7.5" platform, lowered the jack and continued jacking up the trailer.
I got the trailer to the point where the bubble on my 4 foot level, when placed on the floor lined up front to back, is just under one of the lines showing where the bubble should be centered to be level. This should be close enough to level to let the fridge run and still allow water to flow off the trailer roof right?
Here's the final product:
2010 Nissan Armada Platinum -Bilstein (24-197649) 46mm Shocks, Moog 81085 Rear Coils, R1 Concepts Rotors, Prodigy P3, Nokian Rotiva AT Plus LT275/60R20, Husky Center Line TS 32217 WD Hitch w/ Integrated Sway Control
2006 Jayco Jay Feather EXP 23B