I have had my 27ft TT out 3 times and can not get the "wiggles" out of it after I have leveled it. Here's what I have been doing. I use a 3 ft level on a four ft 2x6 to get an idea of horizonal/width pitch of the site I have chosen. I keep the super slide in (???). I put down the appropiate number of leggos on the low side under both tires and back onto them. I block the opposite side tires, undo the trailer from the hitch and level the trailer back to front. I then put the slide out and put down the stablizer jacks. Our trailer wiggles constantly and is reaaly annoying. You can see the blinds wiggle as you walk as well as water in a bottle on the table or cabinets. I thinking it could be due to leaving the slide in during leveling as it has a lot of wieght hanging over the frame, therefore I should put it out before leveling. I would appreciate suggestions. Thanks, Tuna.

We currently have a 25ft TT w/slide. When we get backed in to our spot, I put the chocks under trailer wheels. Plug in, extend slide. Raise jack with wood blocks underneath, and get the weight off the hitch. Then, we use 2 pieces of 2X6 wood blocks under the scissor jacks-level it up. Pull TV out. We're pretty stabile with this system.

Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.

Wedges are only effective is used correctly. Just dropping some by a wheel and nudging them with your toe does nothing to help. To properly set a wedge you place it in front of a tire, pull forward ONTO the wedge, then set the secont wedge behind the tire. Now let the trailer find it's own center. When used that way they are FAIRLY effective but chances are most of your problems are not associated with chocking the wheels.Trailers generally have light weight frames and these frames flex, especially with longer trailers. When you put stab jacks down at the corners it actually makes the problem worse as when the corners are lifted the center, around the axles sags even more. When you walk around inside the frame flexes and bounces on the trailers own suspension. Adding a third set of stab jacks, mounted to the FRAME (not the suspension) can remove most of the wiggle caused by suspension bounce. Also you might experiment with putting different amounts of lift on the corner stab jacks until you find the "sweet spot" for your trailer.Good luck / Skip

We use the jack stands used under Mobile Homes. I have a set of four, they are adjustable. I level side to side using blocks under the tires. Put on the RotoChoks. Unhitch, lower the front of the TT and place the two rear jackstands under the frame. Raise the front of the TT to a little past level and place the two front jackstands under the frame. Lower the trailer onto the jackstands and we are solid. The jack stands are strong enough to support the entire weight of our TT. I got them at an independent RV supply shop.

leveling trailer | Good Sam Community

Go_Dogs
Explorer
Jun 14, 2013
We currently have a 25ft TT w/slide. When we get backed in to our spot, I put the chocks under trailer wheels. Plug in, extend slide. Raise jack with wood blocks underneath, and get the weight off the hitch. Then, we use 2 pieces of 2X6 wood blocks under the scissor jacks-level it up. Pull TV out. We're pretty stabile with this system.
mark5w
Explorer
Jun 14, 2013
There's been a lot of post on this forum about this.

Check them out, sure that will help: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/search/parms/sw%7Bbal%20%20chocks%7D|km%7Bexact%7D|kl%7Bm%7D|fm%7B%7D|pd%7B365%7D|ma%7B%7D/sr/1.cfm
Mortimer_Brewst
Explorer II
Jun 14, 2013
Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.
skipnchar
Explorer
Jun 14, 2013
Wedges are only effective is used correctly. Just dropping some by a wheel and nudging them with your toe does nothing to help. To properly set a wedge you place it in front of a tire, pull forward ONTO the wedge, then set the secont wedge behind the tire. Now let the trailer find it's own center. When used that way they are FAIRLY effective but chances are most of your problems are not associated with chocking the wheels.

Trailers generally have light weight frames and these frames flex, especially with longer trailers. When you put stab jacks down at the corners it actually makes the problem worse as when the corners are lifted the center, around the axles sags even more. When you walk around inside the frame flexes and bounces on the trailers own suspension. Adding a third set of stab jacks, mounted to the FRAME (not the suspension) can remove most of the wiggle caused by suspension bounce. Also you might experiment with putting different amounts of lift on the corner stab jacks until you find the "sweet spot" for your trailer.

Good luck / Skip
the_bear_II
Explorer
Jun 14, 2013
We use the jack stands used under Mobile Homes. I have a set of four, they are adjustable. I level side to side using blocks under the tires. Put on the RotoChoks. Unhitch, lower the front of the TT and place the two rear jackstands under the frame. Raise the front of the TT to a little past level and place the two front jackstands under the frame. Lower the trailer onto the jackstands and we are solid.

The jack stands are strong enough to support the entire weight of our TT. I got them at an independent RV supply shop.
wbwood
Explorer
Jun 15, 2013
With our TT we would put the TT exactly where wanted. I would then put the level on the floor inside the door and see if its level. With experience and by looking at the level, you will learn how much lift on the side you will need. We would place boards or leveling blocks beside the tires that need to be raised. I would pull the TT far enough forward or backwards and move the boards/blocks in place where the tires were. Then move he TT back up on them boards/blocks. Recheck for level. Once level, we would put plastic chock in front of and behind the tires. Unhook the TV and level front to rear with the electric tongue jack and using e level on the floor again. We then would place x chocks between the wheels and lower the stabilizers with 6x6 wood underneath each one to not extend the stabilizers to far out. After a while, usually before bed or the next morning, I would have to tighten down stabilizers again.
Dtaylor
Explorer
Jun 15, 2013
A couple of things: Use a couple 4x6 blocks under each stabilizer jack. The further down the jacks go, there seems to be more wiggle. 2) chocking the wheels by using some of the products suggested or make your own. Re-adjust as needed. Just by the very nature of the way TT are built, you are still going to get some but that should help
TXcampingfamily
Explorer
Jun 15, 2013
Mortimer Brewster wrote:
Buy a pair of RotoChoks. They aren't cheap but are well worth the cost.

x2
Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Jun 15, 2013
We had a lot of wiggle as well until we got a pair of BAL between the wheel chocks from Camping World. We first pull or back into our site, drop the level in front of fridge, determine which side needs to be lifted using wood planks, drive onto wood planks, set both BAL chocks between the wheels and unhitch. Raise/lower powered tongue jack until level, implement BAL scissor and stab jacks located on the corners of our rig unto a stack of lego style levelers so jacks don't have to extend too far. We have this routine down to a science and takes but a few minutes to complete delivering a solid and stable feel with little movement noted when moving about in our 32' TT.
eabc5454
Explorer
Jun 15, 2013
We just moved up from TT to MH. Wiggle in the TT was our biggest complaint. Even with meticulous leveling, we still wiggled. Our Dalmatian starts pacing when he needs to go out (4am) or when he's hungry (6am). We would be rocking and rolling trying to sleep. We finally bought BAL chocks, which were amazing. We had a TT with wide-set wheels, and the BAL chocks stopped 95% of the wiggle. Highly recommend chocks between the wheels.

Happy camping,
Elizabeth